Small block and 727 Install

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SpeedThrills

SpeedThrills

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I want to install them as a unit. Will they go in together?

74 Dart Sport cloned to 70-71 Duster.
 
Yeah you can just get one of these helps big time that way you can angle the trans tail down to help slide it in, and change the angle on the while motor to get it lined up.

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Matts440 said:
Yeah you can just get one of these helps big time that way you can angle the trans tail down to help slide it in, and change the angle on the while motor to get it lined up.
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Thanks Matt. I probably should've bought one of those before hand. I'm doing it today. I'll have to get lucky on the angle, and have some help.

But at least it'll fit as a unit.
 
Here's another question, lol. If I lift the engine and trans as a unit, will the lift plate that replaces the carb hold it? Four 5/16 bolts in aluminum isn't inspiring me.

Just the engine, I trust. I don't know about the engine and trans though.

I'll bet I did it when I was young and dumb(er) w/o thinking twice.

I'll google around and see what a 5/16 bolt will hold.
 
I've done it without too, just take it slow, might need someone to push down on the tail of the trans. But just take it slow.
 
Unbolt the trans crossmember, drop the engine/transmission in as a unit at an angle. Put your floor jack under the trans pan with a block of wood, jack up the transmission to allow you to put the crossmember back in, line up the mounts and bolt it in. I have done many this way.
 
I personally dont trust the lift plate on the carb area to handle both engine and trans together, but that's just me, when I did them bolted together i dont have the intake on and bolt the lift to the heads.
 
Agreed, I have never used a leveler, just one or two short pieces of chain attached to either the intake hold down bolts or the threaded bosses in the ends of the heads.
 
I've used the leveler twice now, it's a big difference, can almost do it by yourself but always good to have help. But the many engines before for both my projects, my dads and helping with projects have been without one.
 
the leveler makes a big difference....you can lower the back of the trans to go into the tunnel and then raise it back up to get the engine in place....also get a floor jack and raise up the back of the car...that raises the tunnel make it easier....

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I have a leveler up in my attic that I got with one of my engine cranes and never used it. Probably an old school habit but I’ve always put it together as a two piece unit.
 
I used to do engine and trans together all the time. Now I do them seperate because its much easier and less chance of banging something up.
If you put the front of the car up on jack stands it will make it easier when installing engine and trans together. It gives you more room for the tail shaft to clear the ground.
 
MoparMike1974 said:
If you put the front of the car up on jack stands it will make it easier when installing engine and trans together. It gives you more room for the tail shaft to clear the ground.
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Try putting them under the diff, raise the back of the car instead of the front.

The angle of the dangle seems better, lol.
 
Or just bolt the motor to the K member and drop the body down over the engine with the headers on it. 4 bolts in the K member, 4 bolts in the crossmember, just that EZ.
 
brian6pac said:
Or just bolt the motor to the K member and drop the body down over the engine with the headers on it. 4 bolts in the K member, 4 bolts in the crossmember, just that EZ.
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Have always wanted to try it that way like factory, just be easier with a shop and a lift not on the ground in the driveway lol
 
Jack the rear of the car up as high as you can get it. Have someone under the car to pull the tailshaft down a bit as well.

It's a bit of a dance, progressively lower the rear of the car as the assembly goes in.
 
d55dave said:
Unbolt the trans crossmember, drop the engine/transmission in as a unit at an angle. Put your floor jack under the trans pan with a block of wood, jack up the transmission to allow you to put the crossmember back in, line up the mounts and bolt it in. I have done many this way.
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Me too, I never saw the need to do it any other way. I've installed many this way by myself with the help of a 6' cheater bar.
 
It's in. I used a chain from corner to corner of the manifold. It was level until I bolted the trans on. That gave it a good enough angle to get started. We put a rope around the trans and ran it out the front, underneath. When the rope was pulled, it lowered the tail, and we went in and down. Worked nicely.
I'll post a couple pics when my buddy sends them to me.

Thanks for all of the ideas. Lots of ways to skin this cat.
 
If you roll her over you can just drop it in from the top, no interference.
 
4 5/16 bolts will hold more than 2 3/8 bolts. I have pulled many complete big blocks with trannys with the plate bolted to the carb flange. Kim
 
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oldkimmer said:
4 5/16 bolts will aloe more than 2 3/8 bolts. I have pulled many complete big blocks with trannys with the plate bolted to the carb flange. Kim
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I was on the fence. The 5/16 would be in aluminum. Yes, 4 as compared to 2. But the (2) 3/8 were grade 8, in iron, threaded as deeply as I could.

I couldn't find anything except tensile strength, of course, I was looking for "pull out" strength. I don't even know the correct term, probably why I couldn't find info.

I should have posted this question several days before I did it. I would've collected more opinions. When I got up yesterday, I said, "Today it goes in". I wouldn't have been disappointed if I couldn't do it, giving myself and 2 friends such short notice.

And, as I said, I probably did it years ago. Got CRS now. lol
 
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