340 Duster oil looks milky

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MOPARBURNEM said:
hi guys! I look forward to gaining knowledge here. I have a 72 Duster that I recently put a 69 model 340 in. The 340 is bored 30 over, 284/484 cam with minor porting on the X heads. I have experienced issues right out of the gate. It wouldn’t run at first, we figured out the cam timing was off so we fixed that and fired it up to realize the Holley carb was bad so we swapped on a Edelbrock 750 and fired it up after changing the gassy oil. It smoked a good bit the first start up. Didn’t let it run long because I didn’t fill completely with coolant, after getting the rest of the coolant filled I started it again to see after 5 minutes of running it started smoking from the headers/ exhaust pipe so I shut it off and checked the oil to see a white tent in the oil along with noticing steam coming out of carb and drivers side tail pipe. Pulled valve covers and can’t see any “milk”. I’m Hoping to get this resolved without any Major issues. Checked the oil again a couple days later and it doesn’t look near as bad as the other day. Will be doing compression and leak down test soon just looking for some insight in case anyone has had similar experiences. The first pic is right after shutting it off, the others was from a few days after

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Hi there. I don't know how to send a pm on this but if you would like to send me one with your phone number I could call you back and try to help you sort this out.
 
I just ran a vacuum test and it was getting 5 at first then I advanced the timing and got around 12 does this say anything? I don’t have a timing light but can get one
 
MOPARBURNEM said:
I just ran a vacuum test and it was getting 5 at first then I advanced the timing and got around 12 does this say anything? I don’t have a timing light but can get one
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Purchase or borrow a dial back timing light.

The increase in vacuum is the best indicator of what your engine wants for initial timing. Tuning for maximum vaccum at idle is a useful techique to obtain an optimum initial timing point, as it is a very good indication that your motor wants more initial timing. You must also reduce the amount of mechanical advance the distributor adds so as to limit your total advance to about 34 -36*.
 
jbc426 said:
Purchase or borrow a dial back timing light.

The increase in vacuum is the best indicator of what your engine wants for initial timing. Tuning for maximum vaccum at idle is a useful techique to obtain an optimum initial timing point, as it is a very good indication that your motor wants more initial timing. You must also reduce the amount of mechanical advance the distributor adds so as to limit your total advance to about 34 -36*.
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Ok, I’m gonna try to get one soon, after only running a couple minutes the oil is back to looking milky again, before I started it, it looked real clean. I’m gonna possibly start looking into someone taking a look at it just so I don’t ruin anything. I have around 2200$ in the engine now and the last thing I want is to ruin it
 
Very simple to adjust timing without a light. With the engine warm and idling, place your hand on the valve cover. Advance the initial timing slowly until you notice two things. First, note that the engine stops idling up as you advance it. Second, notice what I call a "hard rumble" through the valve cover. When you notice those two things, back off the timing until the engine JUST begins to idle down and lock the distributor down. If it spark knocks on a test drive, come back and back off on the timing a small amount more. Keep doing this until no spark knock. If it doesn't spark knock on the initial test drive, leave it alone. When you finally do get a light, you can check total timing and make adjustments there if necessary.
 
MOPARBURNEM said:
Ok, I’m gonna try to get one soon, after only running a couple minutes the oil is back to looking milky again, before I started it, it looked real clean. I’m gonna possibly start looking into someone taking a look at it just so I don’t ruin anything. I have around 2200$ in the engine now and the last thing I want is to ruin it
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If you only ran it for a few minutes and the oil is already milky, you have a problem. Coolant and/or fuel is getting into the crankcase. Go to your local parts store and check out a cooling system pressure tester. Follow the instructions it's easy.
 
512Stroker said:
If you only ran it for a few minutes and the oil is already milky, you have a problem. Coolant and/or fuel is getting into the crankcase. Go to your local parts store and check out a cooling system pressure tester. Follow the instructions it's easy.
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That was after only running a few minutes

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MOPARBURNEM said:
That was after only running a few minutes

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Being that white that fast says you have a growing problem. I'd start with:
  1. Running a compression test on all cylinder
  2. Pulling plugs to examine for water in a cylinder
  3. Pulling the heads to inspect for leakage
  4. Plan from there based on what was found
Sorry for the troubles.
 
if water in cyl get some strong alcohol in there quick then wd-40
(what wd40 was made for)
awaiting results of coolant test and compression and or leak down
remember if you pull your heads you will get some coolant in some cylinders so be ready for water dry up rust is worse
 
Hi again. I couldn’t remember my password so I had to make a new name this is lo23m8b if you could pm me your phone number again I’ll call you right back.
 
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