340 Duster oil looks milky

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Ok. Let it sit there a day or so and see if it separates. You look at it from the side and you can two different levels. So far, I'm sayin that's assembly lube. Doesn't look to terrible to me. Let it sit and let's see.
Will do, thanks! Will let you know when I find out
 
Ok. Let it sit there a day or so and see if it separates. You look at it from the side and you can two different levels. So far, I'm sayin that's assembly lube. Doesn't look to terrible to me. Let it sit and let's see.
I just got a skillet really hot and placed a spoon full of oil in the pan and heard it sizzle and seen it bubble so I do believe there’s coolant in the oil. I took new oil and did the same thing and it did not sizzle
 
sizzling coolant has a very distinctive aroma.
Didn’t catch an aroma. Was disheartened just by hearing the sizzle. What puzzles me though is after checking the dipstick I let it settle for a few days before letting it drain out for inspection and it all came out the same texture/color, you’d think after a few days of setting the coolant would have found its way to the bottom.
 
If there is something in your oil, (and you didn't pour off some into a clear mason jar which would have made it easy to see), then ;
if you stir the oil with a rod or stick that is touching the bottom, it will create a trail that follows the stick. If there is metal in the oil, you will see a shiny trail, the color indicating the type of metal.

If your oilpan had too much oil in it, the crank will beat it up and make it frothy. The frothiness will dissipate in a few minutes. The froth is a mixture of oil and air, and does look sortof milky.
Also, if your PCV is not working, or if the engine is run for short periods such that the oil never warms up,then the crankcase will grab airborn moisture as it heats and cools,and make an ugly looking emulsification that you can see when you remove the filler cap in the valve cover. Invert the cap, and sometimes there will be liquid water stuck under it. This is the same way water gets into your vented fuel tank; namely the natural breathing with temperature changes.
If you see it in the cap, then it is also under the valve covers.
If you still suspect water in the oil, elevate one side of the pan about an inch, and any water in there will collect on the low-side.
 
If there is something in your oil, (and you didn't pour off some into a clear mason jar which would have made it easy to see), then ;
if you stir the oil with a rod or stick that is touching the bottom, it will create a trail that follows the stick. If there is metal in the oil, you will see a shiny trail, the color indicating the type of metal.

If your oilpan had too much oil in it, the crank will beat it up and make it frothy. The frothiness will dissipate in a few minutes. The froth is a mixture of oil and air, and does look sortof milky.
Also, if your PCV is not working, or if the engine is run for short periods such that the oil never warms up,then the crankcase will grab airborn moisture as it heats and cools,and make an ugly looking emulsification that you can see when you remove the filler cap in the valve cover. Invert the cap, and sometimes there will be liquid water stuck under it. This is the same way water gets into your vented fuel tank; namely the natural breathing with temperature changes.
If you see it in the cap, then it is also under the valve covers.
If you still suspect water in the oil, elevate one side of the pan about an inch, and any water in there will collect on the low-side.
I put it in a clear container and will try to do the stir trick after work and report back. Here is a pick of the oil in the container

8AC1D576-1DB6-4B7B-B1BD-CE72BE919242.jpeg
 
When he fixed the cam timing he probably got coolant in the pan from when he removed the timing cover. Then never drained the oil. As a precaution make sure u check the intake and head bolts for torque. Kim
 
When he fixed the cam timing he probably got coolant in the pan from when he removed the timing cover. Then never drained the oil. As a precaution make sure u check the intake and head bolts for torque. Kim
Was thinking the same thing, just figured it would of came out after changing the oil. I drained the original oil out after cam timing got changed then replaced it with this oil and ran it around 5 minutes. I guess it’s possible it was scattered throughout the engine and just didn’t get it all out with just an oil change.
 
U also said he had run it a few minutes. That’s all it takes. With the vc off look down by the lifter bores an see if the oil looks milky. Kim
 
when you cracked the drain plug and got no water- after car had set for awhile) you could be ok'
couple of other good suggestions
good luck
waiting on your tests
did you cut a filter open?
 
U also said he had run it a few minutes. That’s all it takes. With the vc off look down by the lifter bores an see if the oil looks milky. Kim
When I had valve covers off all I could see was the same colored oil on the rockers etc.
when you cracked the drain plug and got no water- after car had set for awhile) you could be ok'
couple of other good suggestions
good luck
waiting on your tests
did you cut a filter open?
I haven’t cut open the filter yet, but I did send the oil off for analysis, results will be back in 7-10 days so I’ll update. The guys at the whole said it was gassy but didn’t think it had coolant in it so fingers crossed. After installing the Edelbrock carb the kick down linkage was choked up and had the throttle opened up a bit so when I first started it, it raced up and idled pretty high, I noticed what happened and adjusted it, so I’m wondering if that’s how the gas ended up in it. Either way I Hope to learn from this. With the steam coming out of carb I’m guessing it was throwing too much fuel down or maybe carb needs attention.
 
If it were me, I'd cut open the filter and check for shavings etc. Put fresh oil in it, so a compression check and if everything is good, start it up and run it for a while and get it good and warm, fluctuating RPMs, set the timing and carb. Shut it down, let it cool and check the oil again. Maybe change filter again. I would think it's most likely coolant that fell into the engine from pulling the engine apart.
 
If it were me, I'd cut open the filter and check for shavings etc. Put fresh oil in it, so a compression check and if everything is good, start it up and run it for a while and get it good and warm, fluctuating RPMs, set the timing and carb. Shut it down, let it cool and check the oil again. Maybe change filter again. I would think it's most likely coolant that fell into the engine from pulling the engine apart.
Will try that tomorrow or Sunday. Thank you!
 
Drain the oil completely.
Fill the coolant to full.
Pressure test the system.
That will show any leaks, be it intake manifold, head gasket, cracks etc...

Leave the oil pan bolt off and look for coolant dripping from the pan while system is pressurized.
 
Drain the oil completely.
Fill the coolant to full.
Pressure test the system.
That will show any leaks, be it intake manifold, head gasket, cracks etc...

Leave the oil pan bolt off and look for coolant dripping from the pan while system is pressurized.

This^^^^^^ Also if you get no coolant out of the pan, I would go ahead and do an oil change on it. That may well fix it. And as for the sizzling in the pan, oil can get moisture trapped in it from the air literally overnight so that tells you not one damn thing. It does not look separated to me in the container. That's a good sign.
 
Your side view of the oil in the container looks exactly like that from an engine that I am rebuilding now.. the grey layer at the bottom is an emulsion of oil and a small amount of water. My engine had a 1/2" hairline crack in the one of the combustion chambers so that was the reason. So I suspect very much you have a coolant leak; you at least have to assume that until proven otherwise. Head gasket, bad part, warped head or block, cracks... who knows. A very slow coolant leak will show up like your oil in the pix after sitting a few days, and not get milky.

To be sure, do as said above with a pressure test on a full cooling system. 2 tests: Cold and not running, apply 12-15 pis presure to the full cooling system, shut off the air soursce and watch for the pressure to drop. I'd do it warm and running....you get a running pressure gauge that clamps onto the rad cap spout on the rad, run the engine and warm it up, and watch for pressure pulses or fluctuations on the gauge. Sometimes you can borrow those gauges from the parts stores...

And honestly, for running 5 minutes, in a so called rebuilt engine, the oil looks filthy. I'll guess that the prior owners did not do crap the clean up the block, etc., and the gas that you got in the engine from the bad carb washed it down and it is now in the pan and oil system. Keep in mind that any small crud in the pan goes right into the oil pump and chews on it, as the pump is before the filter.
 
I had a problem with moisture once when the crankcase breather on the valve cover was plugged up
 
Drain the oil completely.
Fill the coolant to full.
Pressure test the system.
That will show any leaks, be it intake manifold, head gasket, cracks etc...

Leave the oil pan bolt off and look for coolant dripping from the pan while system is pressurized.
Good idea! Thanks
 
This^^^^^^ Also if you get no coolant out of the pan, I would go ahead and do an oil change on it. That may well fix it. And as for the sizzling in the pan, oil can get moisture trapped in it from the air literally overnight so that tells you not one damn thing. It does not look separated to me in the container. That's a good sign.
Will be pressure testing ASAP and will let everyone know the results.
 
Update! Sorry it’s been awhile but I just got the oil analysis back today. It read: this sample contains Trace of Water. Under the antifreeze section it said negative and said the percent of fuel content was 4.4
My oil viscosity was 9.4
 
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