Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
Would not those in a Magnum 
wonder if they just drill a hole in the disc
wonder if they just drill a hole in the disc
My 422 smallblock build
- Thread starter SSG_Karg
- Start date
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yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Actually there are a couple of reasons. As I've posted before, the de facto wheel diameter is .750 because that is all you can fit in an .842 bore.
Chrysler's use a bigger diameter core than Chevrolet. That means for the same lift, the Chrylser will have a higher wheel speed. Wheel speed can be critical as RPM goes up.
If the lobe is ground for a specific wheel diameter, changes either larger or smaller changes the cam timing.
A solid roller wheel changes speed with every lash cycle. It slows down as it gains lash and actually skids to gain speed as it wheel gets on the lash ramp. A hydraulic roller wheel never gets lash so the wheel does not speed up and slow down.
The smaller the wheel, the smaller the shaft axle where the needles ride. Again, it's a speed thing.
As I've said, there are many factors that go along with wheel speed like cam materiel, lobe design, the materiel of the wheel and a ton of other things like pushrod stiffness (or lack thereof), lifter to bore clearance, lash and lash ramp design and more I'm not thinking of that change the resonance frequency of not only the lifter but the entire valve train. Some call it the harmonic wave length.
At any rate, if you run the lifter into a frequency the wheel on the lifter will mimic a tuning fork. It will literally vibrate. This not only fails the wheel and axle but it will break the rivets holding the link bars on the lifter, the adjuster lock nuts will back off no matter how much torque you give them and many other anomalies that break parts that shouldn't break and it's not the parts fault, it the lifter in a reasonance frequency.
Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
"Chrysler's use a bigger diameter core than Chevrolet. That means for the same lift, the Chrylser will have a higher wheel speed."
you thinking rpm with the larger wheel YR?
AFIK all retrofit hr use the .700 wheel
What's oem mopar hr?
you can fit a .815-820 in a.904 lifter bore oo big get too narrow
or bore to .937 to clean up the lifter bores
with keyed lifters even larger
I've used isky's
you thinking rpm with the larger wheel YR?
AFIK all retrofit hr use the .700 wheel
What's oem mopar hr?
you can fit a .815-820 in a.904 lifter bore oo big get too narrow
or bore to .937 to clean up the lifter bores
with keyed lifters even larger
I've used isky's
512Stroker
We are all here because we are not all there.
On the same cam the smaller the roller the higher the roller rpm.
The junk Comp retro fit hydraulic rollers that unfortunately are in my 340 have a .810 diameter roller.
Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
the larger core means that it is a longer distance around the lobe
the larger wheel rpms slower
i did bot know comp had .810 roller in retrofit lifters
anyone else run them?
AAFIK johnson made all the retrofit lifters
512-- is yours a roller block with stock replacement lifters?
the larger wheel rpms slower
i did bot know comp had .810 roller in retrofit lifters
anyone else run them?
AAFIK johnson made all the retrofit lifters
512-- is yours a roller block with stock replacement lifters?
justinp61
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I run comp solid roller lifters with the larger wheel, don't think they are considered a "retrofit" lifter though. They also have the tie bar on the inside instead of the cylinder side.
On the wheel diameter/speed thing I use a boat trailer tire to explain. A trailer with a 8" wheel and say a 15" tall tire will have a greater bearing speed than a 20" tall tire on a 13" wheel. In a mile they both travel the same distance but the smaller tire has to make more revolutions.
On the wheel diameter/speed thing I use a boat trailer tire to explain. A trailer with a 8" wheel and say a 15" tall tire will have a greater bearing speed than a 20" tall tire on a 13" wheel. In a mile they both travel the same distance but the smaller tire has to make more revolutions.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Perfect analogy. And if the tire speed goes up, so does the bearing speed.
Same thing happens with a lifter.
It’s what’s in my 372”
The comp solid body roller lifter with the .800 or .810 roller. I had a buddy run these for over a decade in his drag car, 2 different engines. I figured I’d try them in a street car?
Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
good choice
what are your thougts on pressure feed to the roller?
what are your thougts on pressure feed to the roller?
He didn’t block anything, ran good oil pressure, no issues. Same thing on the next engine, a 360. He had a 340 in it for around 10 years. Raced it at least twice a week.
The weird part was the 340 would out 60’ foot and mph the 360 with a best 1/8 time of 6:13 and the 360 ran a 6:11 best, same heads and cam. 2600 pound Demon
I do have oil going to mine, and didn’t block anything. Though I checked oil pressure as I rolled the engine over, and no losses.
The next engine I’m putting together, will be blocked off, and rely on splash oiling. The x block I bought recently.
I’ll see how these lifters hold up. You guys have relayed some complaints about these lifters, or the other models Comp offers?
The weird part was the 340 would out 60’ foot and mph the 360 with a best 1/8 time of 6:13 and the 360 ran a 6:11 best, same heads and cam. 2600 pound Demon
I do have oil going to mine, and didn’t block anything. Though I checked oil pressure as I rolled the engine over, and no losses.
The next engine I’m putting together, will be blocked off, and rely on splash oiling. The x block I bought recently.
I’ll see how these lifters hold up. You guys have relayed some complaints about these lifters, or the other models Comp offers?
512Stroker
We are all here because we are not all there.
My block is a all stock 1969 340 LA, no oiling mods
512Stroker
We are all here because we are not all there.
You should will be OK with the solid rollers from Comp.
Just stay away from the hydraulic rollers, never again for me.
superchargeddrt
Well-Known Member
If you use ARP bolts on the main you will have to clearnce the pump where it sits above the bolt. I had my main seal leak 3 times before we found this. The 3rd time through we found it because the oil pump gasket blew into 2 pieces (half of which was sitting in the bottom of the pan) . Looking back at my build thread, I see that somebody warned me about this but I didn't catch it.
SSG_Karg
Enhanced member
Thanks for the heads up but I just used a factory main bolt under the oil pump body.
I’m still going to have to grind just a little bit. I’m anal about torquing bolts without a hardened washer under it.
superchargeddrt
Well-Known Member
Yeah it didn't require much grinding but it sure was a PIA until we found it.
Me too
What is the Comp solid roller solid body part number?
828-2 is the one that’s been around for years. No mods to the oiling system usually not needed with this lifter, unless the lifter bores are worn.
Still have to check it, as one lifter puked oil at max lift, and I was able to move it to another cylinder and it was fine.
70-80 pounds of oil pressure, and no losses.
A ton of grinding in the lifter valley for clearance on the guide bars.
I should check them in my x block, as I’m not looking forward to a dozen hours of hand grinding.
Still have to check it, as one lifter puked oil at max lift, and I was able to move it to another cylinder and it was fine.
70-80 pounds of oil pressure, and no losses.
A ton of grinding in the lifter valley for clearance on the guide bars.
I should check them in my x block, as I’m not looking forward to a dozen hours of hand grinding.
SSG_Karg
Enhanced member
Do you have a thread going on for your build?
My cam will be very comparable.
I don't have a build thread, it started out as an EFI swap in the fall, and step by step ended up where I'm at now.
Dwayne Porter spec'd out the cam for me to work with my efi system, it was originally for the 360 that was in the car, but I found some pitting on one cylinder wall and when it didn't hone out I decided if I was going up to .040 over I would build it as a 408.
SSG_Karg
Enhanced member
Gettin there.....
famous bob
mopar misfit
Dam , I hate those ring compressors. Best thing I ever did was get the tapered one piece deal.
SSG_Karg
Enhanced member
Meh, it works and I’m too poor to buy fancy tools.
SSG_Karg
Enhanced member
So I had a little setback during assembly. It was one step forward and two steps back this weekend.
During the initial mock-up of the rotating assembly I mistakenly thought I had enough clearance between the bottom of the cylinder bores and the connecting rod bolts. There was no contact anywhere but it was close. There was .070” clearance on one and a few were within .020”. I did some digging and found that K1 recommends .060-.080” for steel rods and .100” clearance for aluminum rods.
Soooo, long story short I broke it back down, notched the bores, washed it again, and reassembled. Now I have at least .075” clearance on every one.
Gotta love it.
During the initial mock-up of the rotating assembly I mistakenly thought I had enough clearance between the bottom of the cylinder bores and the connecting rod bolts. There was no contact anywhere but it was close. There was .070” clearance on one and a few were within .020”. I did some digging and found that K1 recommends .060-.080” for steel rods and .100” clearance for aluminum rods.
Soooo, long story short I broke it back down, notched the bores, washed it again, and reassembled. Now I have at least .075” clearance on every one.
Gotta love it.
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