Dartin for Divorce

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DentalDart said:
The number to Legendary and PUI is 1-800-Black- Duct Tape right?
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Heres a little video of my new idle, like I said doesn't shake nearly as much and seems like the engine likes it.

I looked at my initial timing and it really looks like tdc but I cant are the mark anymore after I give it gas because it goes off into lala land under and behind some metal parts in my engine. The timing marks on the drivers side suck

 
Initial timing 14 - 20 ish *

Total Mechanical timing 34 - 36 ish *

Total Vacuum timing 50 + *

Initial and mechanical set with vacuum advance disconnected and plugged. Full vacuum timing will advance to the point it gets difficult to track unless you have a timing tape on your balancer.

MSD 8985 Timing Tapes MSD Timing Tape 8985 - Google Search
 
66fyssh said:
Initial timing 14 - 20 ish *

Total Mechanical timing 34 - 36 ish *

Total Vacuum timing 50 + *

Initial and mechanical set with vacuum advance disconnected and plugged. Full vacuum timing will advance to the point it gets difficult to track unless you have a timing tape on your balancer.

MSD 8985 Timing Tapes MSD Timing Tape 8985 - Google Search
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Yes I have watched videos, its just hard to see the tape on my balancer because its behind everything on the drivers side.

It seems to be about 10* initial timing right now if my tape is correct.
 
Oh, I gotcha!

My 5.9 is like that since I'm using the old driver's side water pump outlet and driver's side timing marks. Real hard to see.
 
I may set up marks on the passenger side. Lots of room over there. I know we should set it and forget it but...that's no fun!
 
Got all this stuff today and I purchased the MSD timing tape.

I'm trying to decide if I should install my radiator and cooler this weekend or if I should wait until I install the Cam/timing chain and springs even if I dont know when that will be. So probably this weekend it will be.

The only problem I found with the new parts is the Jegs trans cooler is actually a hayden 689 trans cooler, so essentially I paid 12 dollars more than I needed to for the same cooler.

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Call Jegs and explain - I'm sure they could do a partial refund as a discount.

Also, it'll be easier to install those parts now than when you start overheating in 110F weather.. Pulling the rad/cooler is one of the easier parts of an in-car cam swap.
 
Phreakish said:
Call Jegs and explain - I'm sure they could do a partial refund as a discount.

Also, it'll be easier to install those parts now than when you start overheating in 110F weather.. Pulling the rad/cooler is one of the easier parts of an in-car cam swap.
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Very true, I was just thinking about the wasted fluids, but fluid is cheaper than a new engine.
 
Drain pans and filtered funnels go a long way. I've re-used the coolant that's in my engine a dozen times by now. A working drain petcock does wonders.

If this will be the first time your coolant is drained, you may want to try and get the water jacket plugs out of the engine too and replace them with valves to make fully draining it easier (and prevent unwanted water/coolant from entering your oil pan when you do the cam!).
 
I also noticed the other day that I dont have the correct square ubolts for the rear sway bar, well really I dont have any small square ubolts for the rear sway bar. I went to home depot and ace hardware looking for some but neither store had them.

At home I found these that fit though, so I'm going to use them, they aren't perfect squares but I think they will work just fine.

I also remembered, next week is my spring break! So maybe I can get everything done over the break?!

@Phreakish regarding the camshaft, I'm not doing it by myself. I've been blessed with a local guy here in town @70aarcuda willing to help out, I'll just have to find a day that works with his schedule as I dont want to impose on him if he is busy.

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@66fyssh why the disagree? Do you think those u-bolts will be no good? Or did I do something else wrong? That second part is always a real big possibility :lol:
 
DentalDart said:
Got my proportioning valve!
1 step forward with 3 steps back all the time.

View attachment 1715471084
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I heard this from my Freshman Latin instructor (owned a 1966 Coronet)
"Chrysler products, you either swear by them or swear at them."

I hear you, amigo.Last month, I put a new ignition lock in the Demon. For the first time since I bought the car, it can now with a single key and the column can be unlocked. I connected/disconected only the battery, now Demon is inert and I have a show two weeks hence. I now have lights coming on where there weren't rany. The worst of it all, with the battery connected, the horn blows when the drives door is opened. Fratzog razzlefratz ! ! !

On your proportioning valve, try to position it as close to the stock location as possible. There are several on the board who have quoted Pascal's Law of hydraulics which says with regards to a proper system says it does not matter where it is. Same pressure all over the system regardless of where pressure is applied.

In the real world I know, because I have seen it not be true with regards to one brake system. I helped a couple of guys with the relocation of a prop valve on a 67 GTO due to interference with a set of headers. The lockup point on the rear wheels changed. Rear wheel lockup occurred with less pedal effort than before it was moved.
 
2 Darts said:
I heard this from my Freshman Latin instructor (owned a 1966 Coronet)
"Chrysler products, you either swear by them or swear at them."

I hear you, amigo.Last month, I put a new ignition lock in the Demon. For the first time since I bought the car, it can now with a single key and the column can be unlocked. I connected/disconected only the battery, now Demon is inert and I have a show two weeks hence. I now have lights coming on where there weren't rany. The worst of it all, with the battery connected, the horn blows when the drives door is opened. Fratzog razzlefratz ! ! !

On your proportioning valve, try to position it as close to the stock location as possible. There are several on the board who have quoted Pascal's Law of hydraulics which says with regards to a proper system says it does not matter where it is. Same pressure all over the system regardless of where pressure is applied.

In the real world I know, because I have seen it not be true with regards to one brake system. I helped a couple of guys with the relocation of a prop valve on a 67 GTO due to interference with a set of headers. The lockup point on the rear wheels changed. Rear wheel lockup occurred with less pedal effort than before it was moved.
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That's a good quote! I like to think I swear by and at my chrysler product.

I have the prop valve in the stock location and I'm still not convinced my brakes are perfect. That is actually another job I'll be doing over spring break, bleed the brakes again. So radiator, brakes and sway bar sounds like a good time.
 
Timing tape is in. I read that the balancer must be squeaky clean or it will not stick so when I do the radiator this weekend I will try to install that as well.

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Cover the timing tape with clear packaging tape.
That is the only way I have been able to get them to stay on.
 
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