Is this an odd '67 Dart Voltage regulator?

For the last week I've been trying to track down a parasitic draw in my dart that would cause a dead battery overnight. After doing some detective work, I finally tracked the issue to the green ignition wire coming from the Alternator and going to the Voltage Regulator. I'm 90 percent sure the issue is the Voltage regulator and here's my reason but also concern regarding why. The previous owner of the car installed a regulator that doesn't look like the standard Mopar box:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/smp-vr101/year/1967/make/dodge/model/dart

Or

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/MPE...j-ZxxvFEvSka3KV_MhwUmh1W0Q8hLcXRoCr8wQAvD_BwE

Instead, it looks like a Ford box. Reason I know, my kid has a 68 mustang and his Voltage regulator looks just like it, down to the connector plug wire. We did a test and swapped the box from his car into mine and sure enough it hooked right up and after checking with a test light and multimeter, the parasitic draw is gone and the car starts and runs great, so far. The final test we're running is leaving the battery hooked up overnight to see if the car will start in the AM. This is where my question/concern comes in, why would someone use this Voltage (pics attached) Regulator instead of a mopar unit and is this a huge issue that should be looked into and remedied? Am I mistaken and maybe Dodge did use a similar VR box? Thanks all

Yea that looks like a ford box to me.
People do weird stuff to old cars, maybe it was just on hand at the time.
If your problem is fixed with a "known good unit" then it is pretty safe to say the other one is bad.
And its pretty easy to replace with the proper unit.

Definitely a Ford regulator.

Yep, Ford regulator, The 67 regulator would be a points type from the factory.

I bet that VR is an aftermarket upgrade(not sure of make)Its electronic made to look oem. Originals were electrical.

Maybe he liked the adjustable output of that one (phillips screw in black box). They all do the same thing on a dual field alternator. Your battery is damaged after a discharge, IIRC it will only come back 90% after any dead battery event. Deep cycles are different. That's what a battery guy once told me.

IMHO most likely not an issue BUT....

If the field wires on a Ford alt draw less current than an mopar, then maybe it is hard on the VR, if it was me I would put it back to OEM and use the year appropriate VR, modern replacements will be electronic regardless of the style.

Don't forget to match the VR to the alt if the alt is not year correct.

If there's a draw, it's because it's wired wrong. Francis wiring evidently pushes Ford regulators "on everybody." The thing is, both Ford and Delco had different wiring schemes depending on whether the car used an idiot light or ammeter. "I think" there was an "always on" wire that had to do with sensing Either way I'd replace it. The two-wire simplicity of the Mopar setup is much easier, HOWEVER you have to make sure wiring harness voltage drop does not cause OVER voltage in the system

You can see in this example that there is an "always hot" wire involved

DAMN I hate the "new improved (liberal) Google. Can't find ****. FINALLY found diagrams someone posted out of the old motor manuals, Ford wiring with and without warning lamp

By the way the 60's/ 70's Delco 4 pin are not immune, either. I think there could be a bad diode in the alternator, would feed back and cause a draw coming from the regulator.