Thoughts on this car for a project with my pops

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I've owned dozens of '66 Barracudas and still have three of them. The main expense on restoring them is rust. If you have to replace floors, frame rails, crossmembers, quarters, etc, the price goes way up. Nice front sheet metal is getting kinda scarce, but, not impossible to find. The '66 Valiant uses the same front end except the grilles and moldings. Most of the interior parts are available, as well as drivetrain parts. The best you can do on "matching numbers" is an engine with a casting and build date, before the car build date. It should also be stamped B273 on the upper front part of the block on the driver's side, right under the head gasket seam. It's usually an uneven stamp, so as long as the numbers are evenly spaced on the same plain, don't think they've been added poorly. As mentioned, no VIN is stamped on the engine. The transmission part# stamped into the driver's side pan rail will get you narrowed down to the year. It has a build date too that should be before the car build date (which is the first part of the shipping order number.) The vinyl top option on the one you're looking at is fairly rare, but, in book, not an attractive option. they just trap rust. It wouldn't put me off getting one however, just not something I would go out of my way to get. I've had two of them over the years, but, both are long gone now. Column shift isn't worth as much as a floor shift. Same goes for buckets vs. bench. Performance options add value to the car if it has any. The RH fender shown looks to have a Formula S emblem. If the car is an original S model, it will have a 7 under the f on the fender tag. There are a bunch of other codes on that tag we can decode for you if you can get those off the car (hopefully it's still there!) From what I can see in the photos, it looks like the wrong seats are installed in the car, but, maybe the originals are in the pile in the back seat? Why is it sitting so low in the front? Flat tires? Sunk into the ground? Looks like the seller has another one there in the background. Is the one he's selling a parts car for the one he's keeping? If so, he's probably cherry picked all the best parts for his. In conclusion for this long winded response, look hard at the rust issue, as there are other ones out there that might be a better buy in the long run even if you have pay more initially for a relatively rust free one. If you don't mind rust buckets, I know of another '66 V8 4 speed car not far from you. Might at least be a good donor car for you and/or your pops.
 
cudamark said:
I've owned dozens of '66 Barracudas and still have three of them. The main expense on restoring them is rust. If you have to replace floors, frame rails, crossmembers, quarters, etc, the price goes way up. Nice front sheet metal is getting kinda scarce, but, not impossible to find. The '66 Valiant uses the same front end except the grilles and moldings. Most of the interior parts are available, as well as drivetrain parts. The best you can do on "matching numbers" is an engine with a casting and build date, before the car build date. It should also be stamped B273 on the upper front part of the block on the driver's side, right under the head gasket seam. It's usually an uneven stamp, so as long as the numbers are evenly spaced on the same plain, don't think they've been added poorly. As mentioned, no VIN is stamped on the engine. The transmission part# stamped into the driver's side pan rail will get you narrowed down to the year. It has a build date too that should be before the car build date (which is the first part of the shipping order number.) The vinyl top option on the one you're looking at is fairly rare, but, in book, not an attractive option. they just trap rust. It wouldn't put me off getting one however, just not something I would go out of my way to get. I've had two of them over the years, but, both are long gone now. Column shift isn't worth as much as a floor shift. Same goes for buckets vs. bench. Performance options add value to the car if it has any. The RH fender shown looks to have a Formula S emblem. If the car is an original S model, it will have a 7 under the f on the fender tag. There are a bunch of other codes on that tag we can decode for you if you can get those off the car (hopefully it's still there!) From what I can see in the photos, it looks like the wrong seats are installed in the car, but, maybe the originals are in the pile in the back seat? Why is it sitting so low in the front? Flat tires? Sunk into the ground? Looks like the seller has another one there in the background. Is the one he's selling a parts car for the one he's keeping? If so, he's probably cherry picked all the best parts for his. In conclusion for this long winded response, look hard at the rust issue, as there are other ones out there that might be a better buy in the long run even if you have pay more initially for a relatively rust free one. If you don't mind rust buckets, I know of another '66 V8 4 speed car not far from you. Might at least be a good donor car for you and/or your pops.
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Hi Cudamark, appreciate all the info above!

The other one you saw behind it is the 'clean' one that my dad and I are starting off with restoring and building. This one is a second that the seller had that they originally intended to rebuild, so not a parts car. It would come with a bunch of parts (unspecified, and will look Saturday). So I am trying to decide whether to offer on the second car, hoping for a deal since we bought the other, or to pass and wait for a cleaner shell.

Looking at it and taking into account all the good info everyone has shared, it is clear that no matter what this would need to be taken pretty much fully apart to get rid of rust and fix the body before putting it back together. I'd have a learning curve for that, but I think I could figure it out eventually. In a perfect world, no rust, but rarely are things perfect. It is helpful hearing from everyone their takes, to keep my mind from getting too excited.

In putting it back together, I'd want to swap it to 4 sp, and maybe a different motor.

I'd be interested in at least learning more about the other one you mentioned, if for nothing else to compare different rust buckets.
 
Here's a '66 Valiant convertible that I bought from the same guy. He must have 60 early A-bodies for sale. Some are frankly just parts cars, but, there are a few that are restorable. You can see the back end of the Barracuda I'm talking about in the background next to the container. I'll see if I can in touch with the guy in charge of selling the cars and get back to you.

100_1839.jpg
 
Cudamark, that looks like a real fun place to spend an afternoon!

It definitely looks cleaner than the one I am currently looking at. Interested in learning more, and I appreciate your willingness to reach out the the guy.

That Valiant convertible you picked up will be pretty awesome when done, congrats on picking it up!
 
NoHndlbrsRqrd said:
Cudamark, that looks like a real fun place to spend an afternoon!

It definitely looks cleaner than the one I am currently looking at. Interested in learning more, and I appreciate your willingness to reach out the the guy.

That Valiant convertible you picked up will be pretty awesome when done, congrats on picking it up!
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Yeah, it's now completely stripped, blasted, and primed. Still LOTS to do!
 
Welcome. The trim across the top and at bottom of windshield posts are for a vinyl top car. Very hard to find and worth a few dollars.
ocdart said:
Welcome to FABO from SoCal!
One thing I found interesting from your pics is the chrome trim over the top of the car just at the front of the C-pillar and the apparent difference in paint condition of both sides of the trim. It makes me wonder if maybe this car had a partial vinyl top at one time.

1966 Plymouth Barracuda - Exclusive Photos - Mopar Muscle Magazine

This might be a consideration if you're planning a 'factory resto' vs. a 'restomod'. I don't know how many were built with a partial vinyl top but others may know and chime in.
Good luck with your project(s) no matter what you decide.
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FISHYPETE said:
Welcome. The trim across the top and at bottom of windshield posts are for a vinyl top car. Very hard to find and worth a few dollars.
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Hi Fishypete, thanks for that. Noticing that trim for vinyl is somthing easy for me to miss since I had never actually seen one like that before!
 
My old '66 was vinyl top car. I removed the vinyl and had it painted, but kept the trim. These two pics are about 30 years apart...it had not been mine for a very long time when I took the second pic.
Donna Lil Cuda Sac 1983 01.jpg
DW023890.JPG
 
Jim, not only is that really cool you have those two pictures of your old ’66, but I think that looks pretty slick what you did pulling the vinyl and painting it.

Cudamark, no worries, but it was awfully kind of you to check and I thank you for that! Patience is part of the game.

Kendog, wow no joke! We’ve probably all been there excited to show off for a friend but then it goes terribly wrong…
 
NoHndlbrsRqrd said:
My question today is regarding a second one I am looking at. I am curious how rare it might be, and if there are any red flags I should look at before taking it on. I have some experience, and am excited to learn more, but there are always those things that are non-starters.
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my advice is to run away as fast as you can. early abodies just aren't worth too much. not a big deal until you dump a ton of time and cash into it only to realize that if/when you need to sell it you aren't getting **** for it.. yea yea yea no one has intention on selling but **** happens some times...

the other problem is that there are very few parts re-popped for an early abody so you need to find clean or redone original stuff when putting one together and that equals $$$$$$.

if you do decided to do an early abody ( i love the 64 valiants. had a few over the years) then fine a spotless one and start there... if it needs metal work then its a lot of time and money finding and restoring parts for the damn things... be far ahead of the game finding a 68-up abody in my opinion..
 
Hi abodyjoe,

Thanks for the input. So the 68+ bodies and parts are easier to find in your opinion? That is definitely good to know. I hadn't considered that since my pops just got the clean '66 and the idea was to get a matching one. But this has all popped up real quick and grand plans can always change.

I know what you mean about selling. I have owned several cars over the years that when I buy them I think it will be forever but then life happens.
 
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