1965 Dodge Dart Charger convertible

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I think the tip is low to account for air flow to keep the exhaust from curling up the rear bumper area.
The standard exhaust had a kick up then down to direct the exhaust down at an angle to keep it from curling up the back . Our ‘63 was also like that.
On my ‘66 I made the mistake of exiting straight back close to the bumper and it curled up the back and over time it messed up the chrome and discolored the paint . The other problem is exhaust coming in the interior if the weather strip leaks air.
 
GGs66GT said:
I think the tip is low to account for air flow to keep the exhaust from curling up the rear bumper area.
The standard exhaust had a kick up then down to direct the exhaust down at an angle to keep it from curling up the back . Our ‘63 was also like that.
On my ‘66 I made the mistake of exiting straight back close to the bumper and it curled up the back and over time it messed up the chrome and discolored the paint . The other problem is exhaust coming in the interior if the weather strip leaks air.
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It was an issue when the cars were new. The cam tail on the cars created a low pressure area and exhaust gasses were sucked up around the bumper and the aluminum trim piece along the trunk (on the GTs) as well as on the trunk lid. On a long trip my '65 Dart GT bumper would be blue above the exhaust extension from the heat and exhaust fumes. Remember we were using leaded gas back then and the exhaust fumes were more noxious then than today. Most HiPo 273 Darts have much more corrosion on the left side of the aluminum trim piece than the other side due to that very issue.
 
65ChargerDart said:
It was an issue when the cars were new. The cam tail on the cars created a low pressure area and exhaust gasses were sucked up around the bumper and the aluminum trim piece along the trunk (on the GTs) as well as on the trunk lid. On a long trip my '65 Dart GT bumper would be blue above the exhaust extension from the heat and exhaust fumes. Remember we were using leaded gas back then and the exhaust fumes were more noxious then than today. Most HiPo 273 Darts have much more corrosion on the left side of the aluminum trim piece than the other side due to that very issue.
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Did your Dart Charger had the black och the stainless steel tip resonator back then?
 
65ChargerDart said:
Hi Ulf!

The inside of the resonator was black, but probably from the exhaust from leaded gas. The outside was stainless, which I kept polished.
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Ok, on the first peoduxtion run all cars had a black resonator without a stainless steel tip. From what I have heard the reason for adding the stainless steel tip was because people got hurt from the resonator on the feint of their legs. Even got it comferred from the old president of the WPC Club!
 
65ChargerDart said:
You may be right, Ulf but the hanger is the same on the '66 models without the notch and there is a bumper in the way, although the exhaust may have been attached before the bumper. I prefer to think there was a miscommunication between the engineering and design teams. It would have looked much better tucked up into the notch in the rear valance.
When I had my 1st '65 Dart back in 1966 people would ask me why my exhaust tip hung too low. I asked the dealership and they told me that's the way they all came and it was supposed to hang down like that. I just accepted it but didn't think it looked right then and it still doesn't to me, especially when you look at how nicely the Mustang GT exhaust trumpets of the same era fit through their rear valance.

I guess we'll never know... :)
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Check on later Cuda and Challenger, the tip fits like a glove!!
 
Two more wheel centers have be polished and ready. How ever I don't like the chromed centers. I cant get rid of the chrome.
Is there a way to get rid of the chrome without hurting the aluminium center?

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Back in 2010 I sold me rear springs to a guy. I just thought they were dead. I added a set with seven leafs. After 10 years of bumping aroung I was able to buy them back. He had kept them in his shop since he bought them.
The date code is 198 4. They were made the 198th day of 1964 so it is probably the correct springs.
I will mount them on my car and hopefully get a better stance on it incl a bump free ride!

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Finally the correct rear springs are back in place. The car looks more factory and I know it's the right stuff.

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I decided to leave the OEM rear springs in the wagon; however, the front is getting HD everything including 1.03 torsion bars and 1 & 1/8” (or maybe it’s an 1 & 1/4”) Helwig sway bar
 
65 Dartman said:
I decided to leave the OEM rear springs in the wagon; however, the front is getting HD everything including 1.03 torsion bars and 1 & 1/8” (or maybe it’s an 1 & 1/4”) Helwig sway bar
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I think you're good. Depends on how much load of parts you are gonna bring to the swap meetsbor if you will have a trailer at the back.
 
65dartcharger said:
I think you're good. Depends on how much load of parts you are gonna bring to the swap meetsbor if you will have a trailer at the back.
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Chances are no parts or a trailer - just a cooler. About the only major stuff I have left are 3 tubs full of 1/24 diecast models which I will eventually be listing for sale. Wouldn’t want to get that nice new carpet in the back dirty!
 
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sgrip65 said:
Looks nice Ulf. My PPG color was matched to the Pale Yellow OEM, and it was Lamborghini yellow....from their book. Do you use base coat clear coat? They tell me that the acrylic enamels are easier to work with.....just someone's opinion. Keep up the good work. sgrip65
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I used base and clear due to lots of driving. When I painted my wagon they had a mixed base/clear sprayed one time. Looks great.
 
I love single stage. If you have enough coats and you get a minor scratch not thru to the primer, you can color sand it out and buff it back. If its base/clear and a scratch goes thru the clear, your kinda fucked.

The OEMs went with base/clear not because it was more durable, but because it was cheaper to paint a car. Pigmented paints are more expensive than clear, so they spray just enough base coat to make it look good and even, then cover it with a bunch of clear. I have seen many clearcoat jobs with the clear peeling off.
 
65dartcharger said:
Two more wheel centers have be polished and ready. How ever I don't like the chromed centers. I cant get rid of the chrome.
Is there a way to get rid of the chrome without hurting the aluminium center?

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What are you doing with the wheels? Do you have more photos of this? I have a couple of Cragar SS that need restoration and I would like to figure out if it is worth it.
You might be able to remove the chrome by electrolysis. (the electro-chemical process, not the hair removal kind) You might talk to a plating specialist to see if there is a way to de-chrome the wheel center without sacrificing the aluminum substrate. If that works how do you want to finish centers? Polished Aluminum?
 
Ogre Backwash said:
What are you doing with the wheels? Do you have more photos of this? I have a couple of Cragar SS that need restoration and I would like to figure out if it is worth it.
You might be able to remove the chrome by electrolysis. (the electro-chemical process, not the hair removal kind) You might talk to a plating specialist to see if there is a way to de-chrome the wheel center without sacrificing the aluminum substrate. If that works how do you want to finish centers? Polished Aluminum?
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This is how the center is released from the rim. Then it's just polishing of the center piece and a rechrome on the rim and the press in the center and weld it together.

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Beams said:
Ulf, can you post or send a close up of the Mopar Collector’s Guide article? Does it provide any additional info on Joe Sousa (like job?) I live in the area, and might be able to help track him down. Relatively small town, but Sousa is a common name around here—it’ll probably just take asking the right people.
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Did you get hold of him?
 
Ulf, I found out that one of my old bosses was a salesman at Denis Dodge from 1963-1965. Seeing what info I can dig up.
 
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