Another ET guess...

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Brooks James

Brooks James

VET, CPT, Huey Medevac Pilot
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70 Dart, probably 3450 lbs with my fat *** in it.
360 Magnum
Stock block, crank, heads, rods, pistons
Hopefu 9:1 compression
Cam adv duration and lift
498/274. 512/286. 113.5 lsa
Good Hughes valve springs
Stock lifters and push rods
Edelbrock knock off air gap
750 Holley double pumper
MP distributor 36 degrees all in by 2600
Accel Super coil
Accel plug wires
Ngk plugs
904 beffy tranny
Reverse manual valve body
3500 converter
SS springs
3.91 gears
150 shot of nitrous
MSD timing controller
Two stage nitrous controller
24 inch tires, effectively 4.30 gears on such a short tire
Dougs headers
Chrome Cragar SS wheels. Lol

I conservatively estimate the hp to be 500 and assume decent traction. I’m hoping for
11.30’s

Your guess. ???
 
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13.00 if your lucky. the 24" tire isn't enough tire for a nitrous powered go kart.
Get a 28" x 9 or 10" tire under the car.
 
OUCH!!!!! I agree with fish67, need more tire. If it hooks, 10.97, but it better be tuned and dialed in !!!
 
24-in tire that's pretty vague description 24 in 10.5 drag radial would hold a lot of power, I ran 265 50 14 years they came in at about 24 and a half inches and you're right with the 391 it factors into close to a 430 but when you start hitting it with torque in a bottle that's a whole different story. You can probably tippy tow your way into the low 12s just my guess.
 
The last time I used a go kart tire was back in the late 70's 25" x 9'' with 4.57 gear
The car got religion when I stepped up to 29" x 10 ".
 
12.60's -13.00
Way too much gear with that tire height
Traction limited down low
Out of rpm way early with stock heads

Converter will be hurting if it's not a quality unit with an anti ballooning plate

Not light.

Played with nitrous with my cammed, geared, and convertered 323 back in the day. With 26" mickey et streets and 3.91 gears, and ATI tree master converter. And fmvb. Low 12's hooking.

You have more cid, but more weight, way too much gear....and some other negatives. Imo. Not picking apart your combo, just speaking from experience. A cammed, stock, 360 with a ton of gear is going to be out of steam by 660 feet. Nitrous is just going to get it to 5500 Faster, IF....you can hook. If you are running street tires like bfg's, it'll be hard pressed to 60'.
 
Ok, what if I ran a set of Nitto
Drag street radials. I’m close to 10 inches tread now. Let’s say 26-27 inch diameter and 10 inch tread Nitto.
 
Johnny Mac said:
12.60's -13.00
Way too much gear with that tire height
Traction limited down low
Out of rpm way early with stock heads

Converter will be hurting if it's not a quality unit with an anti ballooning plate

Not light.

Played with nitrous with my cammed, geared, and convertered 323 back in the day. With 26" mickey et streets and 3.91 gears, and ATI tree master converter. And fmvb. Low 12's hooking.

You have more cid, but more weight, way too much gear....and some other negatives. Imo. Not picking apart your combo, just speaking from experience. A cammed, stock, 360 with a ton of gear is going to be out of steam by 660 feet. Nitrous is just going to get it to 5500 Faster, IF....you can hook. If you are running street tires like bfg's, it'll be hard pressed to 60'.
Click to expand...
I wouldn’t call my engine stock not at 500 hp
 
Brooks James said:
Ok, what if I ran a set of Nitto
Drag street radials. I’m close to 10 inches tread now. Let’s say 26-27 inch diameter and 10 inch tread Nitto.
Click to expand...
That's what I run lots of traction there. I love those tires 275/50/15 nitto 26"
 
Brooks James said:
I wouldn’t call my engine stock not at 500 hp
Click to expand...
What would you call it then?
You described it as "Stock block, crank, heads, rods, pistons" with a cam a valve springs.

A cam swapped magnum is right at the 400 hp mark. That's with a GOOD intake and carb.

The engine might make 500 hp with a 100 shot, but the heads, mega gearing, and other questions will be detractors.

Been down this road myself.
 
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Do you consider an air gap a good manifold? What about a 850 thermoquad set up by a pro
All I want is to be able to ALMOST hang with a C8 corvette running 11.2 stock
 
Brooks James said:
Do you consider an air gap a good manifold? What about a 850 thermoquad set up by a pro
All I want is to be able to ALMOST hang with a C8 corvette running 11.2 stock
Click to expand...
The professional products airgap makes 25 less hp on the dyno than the actual edelbrock. Tested it myself. I haven't done anything with a thermoquad besides replace them with holleys. Not saying you can't make them work, just not my preference. Also if you don't have, or don't know what an anti ballooning plate is, your converter isn't long for this world on nitrous. I'm just going from my experience and years of drag racing. What you are describing isn't a low 11 second car. It may be an awesome ride, and will put together. Not knocking it. But on paper....the numbers are what they are.
 
1/4 Mile ET Calculator

Play around with the above, it's surprisingly accurate for a ballpark. I find the trap mph to be high, but the ET is usually fairly close...as simple as it is.
 
Brooks James said:
Do you consider an air gap a good manifold? What about a 850 thermoquad set up by a pro
All I want is to be able to ALMOST hang with a C8 corvette running 11.2 stock
Click to expand...
Still have yet to see a c8 actually do a good pass at the track, usually a snobby rich guy has no clue what he's doing.
 
Brooks James said:
Do you consider an air gap a good manifold? What about a 850 thermoquad set up by a pro
All I want is to be able to ALMOST hang with a C8 corvette running 11.2 stock
Click to expand...
I have a lot less gear (3.23), a lot less converter (mines 100% stock), a lot less cam (204 @ 050/.427 lift), less compression (I have a LA block with the dished pistons), I do have OOTB Speedmaster heads, about the same weight, 26" MT ET street tire, and I'm hoping to break 12's tomorrow.

  • I would think your combo N/A would beat mine easily. Throw a 150 shot at it, and that's why I said what I said for a time. But as I said, better have it tuned, and with traction!!!!
 
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Advice considered. Because I have practically nothing in my present converter and trans, I will probably go for it. I have a spare 904 and a 360 mag block which I plan on doing right when an inheritance comes in. I will probably tune the nitrous down to a 100 shot. I’ll also get the Nitto’s. After 10 yrs bringing the Dart to completion and I don’t have the money or thewill to do a revamp. I’m just like anybody, I want maximum results for minimum $$.
 
Don't go to the track expecting 11.30s go there just see what to be worked on. It takes time especially with hodgepodge parts.
 
thesiren74 said:
Don't go to the track expecting 11.30s go there just see what to be worked on. It takes time especially with hodgepodge parts.
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I expect to tune 30-40 hp. Hodgepodge?? The only parts that aren’t stock are the cam and valve train, carb, intake, and converter . Of course the gas.
 
thesiren74 said:
Don't go to the track expecting 11.30s go there just see what to be worked on. It takes time especially with hodgepodge parts.
Click to expand...
I wouldn't even consider using the NOS for the first couple outings. I'd get the car to work and run to it's potential N/A. Then spray it.
 
318willrun said:
I wouldn't even consider using the NOS for the first couple outings. I'd get the car to work and run to it's potential N/A. Then spray it.
Click to expand...
You are 100 percent correct. I’m sure there will be jet changes in the nitrous plate, carb, timing, and spark plugs along with lots of plug reading
 
There’s “on paper” and then “reality”. On paper the combo could run decent numbers and surprise many. The reality? Just a few questions: When’s the last time you ran a car at the track? Do you have your rear tire pressure dialed in, your burnout to heat them up down pat, your shift points figured out, etc etc etc. You won’t know the true potential of what you have until you pile up runs and get it all figured out, AND then I’d be adding the nitrous......but only after I had the ideal tire pressure, burnout length, rpm at launch, shift points and so forth figured from trial and error test and tuning. Just my opinion, but throwing nitrous on top of possible spinning tires, bogging off the line, unknown ideal rpm for shifting is a waste of time and won’t really tell you much seems to me?
 
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