supersoap a direction I'd be tempted to go.............
1...Check your spark I told you how. If there is none, first determine "what you are up against" that is an older OEM "5 pin" module, or a newer "4 pin." A 5 pin MUST have a 4 pin ballast, the 4 pin module can use either 2 or 4 pin ballast. To do this look at the diagram, determine where the module resistor feeds in to the module, and get on that pin with your meter in "ohms" or resistance. Check that pin to every other pin and the module case, then turn the leads around neg for pos and do it all again. If you read infinity at all times, you can assume it's a 4 pin module
WHY!!?? Because this makes troubleshooting easier.
2...If the module is 4 pin, now you can easily "hot wire" it without worrying about the resistor(s). For quick testing you can jumper power to the coil + with an alligator clip wire. If there is any question whether the ballast is good, bypass it on the side feeding the coil. DO NOT leave this all hooked up longer than it takes to test. 15--30 seconds at a time. If the engine is running, you can get away with this for longer periods
With the thing jumpered as above, now you don't have to worry about any wiring or circuits or switches in the car working, because you have fed power direct to the ignition
3...Now you can jumper the start relay to crank, and AGAIN check spark, which should now be VERY impressive, hot, blue, "big."