k frame dilemma

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Paul Davidson

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I have a 67 notch that I'm rebuilding the suspension on I have new upper arms t bars Bergman lower bushings qa1 strut bars abd will be getting a borgesion steering box.
My k frame is ok but its a 67 so i was hoping to get some help deciding weather to use my k or get a tubular one
 
The weakness is the 67 stud idler.

I assume the K-member you have is a V-8 one already?

seems like a lot of money for one part.

if you keep a look out and later found a used K-member somewhat close for $250 or under... you could swap it then. Everything will swap except the $40 idler arm.

I don’t see there being a $620 benefit for what you seem to be planning.

if you were doing a slant 6 to V-8 conversion at same time, I could see that double benefit paying off for $620.
 
Many options.

Tubular K frame from QA1 will use 68-72 &73-76 idler mount that won't fit your 67 idler. This will mean a new centerlink and pitman and LBJ.

67 K frame is fine. Firm Feel have a great reinforcement kit to weld on. Easy enough. Hot tank frame first.
 
the way im seeing it is 250 for the k firm feel reinforcement plates powder coating and my time welding cleaning
 
Many options.

Tubular K frame from QA1 will use 68-72 &73-76 idler mount that won't fit your 67 idler. This will mean a new centerlink and pitman and LBJ.

67 K frame is fine. Firm Feel have a great reinforcement kit to weld on. Easy enough. Hot tank frame first.
In the end I got a 68 frame idler arm mount welded to my 67 K frame, with 73-76 centerlink etc. Reinforced it with the kit. Have a borgeson box now too.
 
i didnt realize that center link and pitman and lower ball joints had to be changed also
 
In the end I got a 68 frame idler arm mount welded to my 67 K frame, with 73-76 centerlink etc. Reinforced it with the kit. Have a borgeson box now too.
where did you get the idler arm mount
 
The weakness is the 67 stud idler.

I assume the K-member you have is a V-8 one already?

seems like a lot of money for one part.

if you keep a look out and later found a used K-member somewhat close for $250 or under... you could swap it then. Everything will swap except the $40 idler arm.

I don’t see there being a $620 benefit for what you seem to be planning.

if you were doing a slant 6 to V-8 conversion at same time, I could see that double benefit paying off for $620.
its a v8 k
 
i didnt realize that center link and pitman and lower ball joints had to be changed also
They don't. After you either change the K or modify yours to take a 68 or later idler arm, there are 4 pieces that must match each other, independent of a 68/ later K

The pitman arm must match the steering box spline. There are large and small splines. If you end up with a 73/ later center link, you must use 73/ later pitman and idler arm, as the studs on them point the opposite direction of 72/ earlier.

The only other "thing" is whether you are going to use a factory anti-sway bar. 72/ earlier mounts under the K, and uses different lower LCA tabs than the 73/ later bar, which goes INSIDE the K member.
 
Many options.

Tubular K frame from QA1 will use 68-72 &73-76 idler mount that won't fit your 67 idler. This will mean a new centerlink and pitman and LBJ.

67 K frame is fine. Firm Feel have a great reinforcement kit to weld on. Easy enough. Hot tank frame first.
Center link is same for 67-72. Ditto the pitman arm. If he upgrades to a 68-72 K frame only the idler arm needs to be changed.
 
Much to do about nothing. Leave the 67 K frame in and run it. Theoretical worry over something that is strong enough for almost any of us.
 
What I did with my 66 k frame before the 408 install. I pulled it out, hot tanked it and cleaned it up with the plan to check/fix existing welds and used the firmfeel reinforcement kit. Firmfeel Mopar Suspension and Steering

After that, install it, or paint it or powder coat it and you are good to go

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Much to do about nothing. Leave the 67 K frame in and run it. Theoretical worry over something that is strong enough for almost any of us.
Strength is not the problem. The problem is that the idler is one year only and they are very expensive and getting more difficult to find. IT IS a legitimate problem.
 
Lop off the 67 only idler mount and install a 68-76 idler mount. I made a jig off a known 68 up K frame. Slant or V8 the steering box to idler mount and geometry is all the same from 68-76. Using another jig i made , I correctly located a V8 RH mount, I "turned" this 67 slant sux K frame "into" a 68-72 V8 K frame. The pieces I used to modify my 67 slanty K frame came off a rusted through and bent 69 V8 K frame that had no value other than scrap weight.

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Strength is not the problem. The problem is that the idler is one year only and they are very expensive and getting more difficult to find. IT IS a legitimate problem.

I can still get one, and we are talking about a once in a 100 to 200 thousand miles. I wouldn't change a K frame for $100 when everything is said and done.
 
I can still get one, and we are talking about a once in a 100 to 200 thousand miles. I wouldn't change a K frame for $100 when everything is said and done.
Ok fine!!! Don't!!! Don't change it!!!
 
Lop off the 67 only idler mount and install a 68-76 idler mount. I made a jig off a known 68 up K frame. Slant or V8 the steering box to idler mount and geometry is all the same from 68-76. Using another jig i made , I correctly located a V8 RH mount, I "turned" this 67 slant sux K frame "into" a 68-72 V8 K frame. The pieces I used to modify my 67 slanty K frame came off a rusted through and bent 69 V8 K frame that had no value other than scrap weight.

Your always doing cool **** like this. Wish you lived next door.
 
Thanks. Its all out of necessity though being as i live in the middle of nowhere. It's what I had. Was able to borrow a 68 up V8 K to make the mod jigs from, provided I returned the V8 K to its owner unmolested. I had the 67 slanty one, and I was going to have to use.
 
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