Big block camshaft question

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Ok i see where you are from, the other side of the world. There are lots of car guys over there, you should maybe go to some car shows and local cruise nights and hang out and chat with some people. By the questions your asking, you need to do a lot or reading and research. Best of luck in your build.
 
Books by Larry Sheppard on sa designs publishing like Hotrodding big block mopars offer a lot of info. Also searching mopar muscle articles on line offer a ton of info on cam head and piston selection.
 
devo said:
Oh yeah, I cant seem to find anything about what the difference is in the solid roller and hydraulic cam shaft themselves..are the lobes ground on different profile on the solid for the solid lifters?is the core material different?All I can find is the solid uses solid lifters and the hydraulic uses hydraulic lifters and is it bad practice to mismatch the two?ie solid roller with hydraulic lifters and vice versa apologise for all the questions but you guys did say fire away lol
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The basics:
Hydraulic flat tappet - cast cam core (the blank the cam is ground on), lobes have taper ground in to spin the lifters during the opening and closing ramps. Uses any oil pump drive. Rate of lift (and thereby duration) are limited due to lifter diameter and the hydraulic system within the lifter that dampens the initial lift and takes up any freeplay (or "lash) within the valvetrain. Depending on pushrod you can use non-adjustable or adjustable rockers.

Solid flat tappet - same cast cam core as hydraulic. Same oil pump drive. Same taper on lobe to spin lifter. Rate of lift can be faster - sometimes much faster - depending on lifter diameter. Rate of lift is not dampened as there is no hydraulic function within the lifter. Must run adjustable rockers of some type because the freeplay in the valvetrain is sset by the rocker adjustment.

Hydraulic roller - Billet steel cam core. Needs bronze oil pump drive. Some small block cams can be ordered with cast gear to use any oil pump drive, I do not believe any big blocks cam be ordered that way but not positive. No taper on lobe because roller needs a flat surface to ride on. Rate of lift is milder than solid flat tappet, similar to hydraulic flat tappet due to the hydraulic system within the lifter that dampens the initial lift and takes up any freeplay (or "lash) within the valvetrain. Solid rollers can be used on lobes designed for hydraulics. End play setting of camshaft is necessary. Requires comparatively heavier valve spring pressure to maintain stability with much heavier lifter. Depending on pushrod you can use non-adjustable or adjustable rockers but adjustables and custom pushrods are recommended. In my opinion - block needs to have lifter bores bushed to run soller lifters. Some debate that but it's important enough for me to mention.

Solid roller - Same billet core. Same oil pump drive requirements. Same lack of taper. Fastest rate of lift possible depending on roller diameter and spring pressures. Lifters can be heavy or much lighter depending on design and block prep. Hydraulic roller lifters should not be used on solid flat tappet lobe designs. Same setting of endplay. Needs adjustable rockers. Same opinion on bushing the block.
 
Hey thanks Moper I have found a few big block mopar rebuild books by larry Sherpa and Andy Finkbeiner 60 bucks so they should quieten me down for a wee bit,thanks guys
 
Both of those books are good (it's Larry Shepard BTW). Larrry's tends to concentrate on MP parts adn recipes and frankly there's a lot better stuff around. Andy's a more modern reference and if you're on Moparts, he's frequently there in the race section under AndyF.
 
Sorry, I stand corrected "Shepard",english isn't our mother tongue over this side of the world.Moparts?Ill check it out,thanks Moper
 
devo said:
Ok basically im going to attempt to build this 440 around a roller cam and collecting the parts to make it work then put it all together without breaking the bank and I can drive it in the city and country side.The engine will be going into where a hemi 265 that's a six cylinder 3090lb (1402kg) I think by memory wheel base 115inch (2921mm)two door 1973 Chrysler valiant hardtop Factory wheels are 14inch this is a project car all that remains is a rolling bare shell with a 6 cylinder bw diff and 6cylinder torsion bars k- frame leaf springs etc,I have most of the parts for the big block conversion I have done this conversion before.Need to learn more?youre so right about that and this is the best place to start.Their is no gear box yet however I have a ford 9inch to collect off the farm not sure about gear ratio with that all I no is theyre strong and it came out of a factory 351 Cleveland car ford xa falcon.Finding a Chrysler v8 diff over here is very hard and the cost when you find one is bullshit,the ford diff was free.This build is nothing serious just a bloke havin fun I wanna make use of the monster I have sitting on a pallet wrapped in plastic under everyones feet in the shed,yes their is a drag strip 3hours from where iam which I would like to attend now and then for ***** and giggles.The other thing I want you to bare in mind is the closest machine shop is 5hours drive from me anyone decent anyway.I cant really think of anything else at the moment.Thanks for all youre help I hope this gives everyone a better hind site on what iam trying to achieve here,
Daveo
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I also had a hard time finding a 8 3/4 rear axle housing that wasn't junk or super rare A body width haha. Moser Engineering built me a brand new housing and was able on the phone to figure out width for 11" drums. So with 31 spline axles with sealed bearings 1280.00 delivered to the house. Then called Dr. Diff and ordered posi carrier gears and bearing for another 700ish. Still cheaper than any used housing off the internet with no guarantee it's any good.
 
I'm going to pick up on what moper said. Aftermarket roller cams will eat a stock distributor drive gear. Solution? I'm staying out of this one as I'm not sure there is a long term solution available. :popcorn:
 
6PakBee said:
I'm going to pick up on what moper said. Aftermarket roller cams will eat a stock distributor drive gear. Solution? I'm staying out of this one as I'm not sure there is a long term solution available. :popcorn:
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I have had a steel ,or cast drive gear in my car for about 10ish yrs , on a compcams billet solid street roller , actually this is the second cam I`ve had it on, had to downsize the cam for the map reading on my fuel inj. .
Hughs engines have had them for a log time , someone else has them too and calls them melonized steel , I think---------
 
Yep, Melonized gear. Compatible with roller & FT cams. It is steel, versus cast iron for the original factory gear. I bought mine from Mancini Racing.
 
There are a few books on the big block mopars, Summit and 440 source have them. Also try to find an old mopar performance engine book (maybe on Ebay) its its older information but you can get a better understanding of mopar engines.
 
devo said:
Oh yeah, I cant seem to find anything about what the difference is in the solid roller and hydraulic cam shaft themselves..are the lobes ground on different profile on the solid for the solid lifters?is the core material different?All I can find is the solid uses solid lifters and the hydraulic uses hydraulic lifters and is it bad practice to mismatch the two?ie solid roller with hydraulic lifters and vice versa apologise for all the questions but you guys did say fire away lol
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The way to compare two identical cams is to compare them at .020 or .015 and .050. That will show you if one has a more agressive ramp than the other
 
Fisher said:
big block and budget are not used in the same sentence.

My last 426 wedge cost me around $13,000 carb to pan tuned on the dyno
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Engine 400
Carb 1,000
header 1,000
intake 300
Vc's 100
Rocker 700
Heads 2,000
Re-kit 2,000
Bolts 200
Pan 500
Cam 400
Lifers 1,000
Machine shop cost 4,000
Dyno 500

I may be missing some things here and you can give or take, but Fisher couldn't be more spot on. He may actually be a little light!
 
roccodart440 said:
Engine 400
Carb 1,000
header 1,000
intake 300
Vc's 100
Rocker 700
Heads 2,000
Re-kit 2,000
Bolts 200
Pan 500
Cam 400
Lifers 1,000
Machine shop cost 4,000
Dyno 500

I may be missing some things here and you can give or take, but Fisher couldn't be more spot on. He may actually be a little light!
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And everything gets more expensive every day...
 
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