Help ID motor. Potentially/likely canadian

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mtldart

mtldart

74 dart sedan
Joined
Aug 20, 2019
Messages
124
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150
Location
Montreal
I've searched and searched and I think my motor is a Canadian motor so I might be **** outta luck on this one?
The pad behind the alternator says: 7225 10 (or C) 1 E
The pad at the back of the block on the passenger side is basically illegible but maybe it says: 7F? 74? 139208

On the head its got a stamp too: 3698447-8 with a number just above that that says 2806? (That one's pretty rough)

I got the motor as an attempt to grab some spare parts off it, maybe rebuild to learn on, or just to look at menacingly.... I got it from a guy clearing out his garage and he said it was from his 74 dart. Now it could have been a Plymouth it could have been not a dart, it could really be anything.

The things I immediately noticed different from my current motor in my American 74 dart sedan are different motor mounts, mine have a bolt through on drivers side not a rectangular platform. And the spark plugs don't appear to have the drool tubes? They just look shallower than mine if that's possible.
Any ideas or leads on what I am looking at here?

In an absolute worst case scenario I got it as back up pieces for intake and exhaust manifolds, valve cover and oil pan. But if this thing will bolt right in to my car if mine ***** the bed then it's worth sitting in a corner for a decade. I actually wanna just swap the valve cover over this weekend which is a quick job if it fits right because mine currently leaks a little and I've got a new gasket and this one's all nice and painted unlike mine.
PXL_20210713_210918586.jpg
PXL_20210713_210924108.jpg
PXL_20210713_211004402.jpg
PXL_20210713_211014932.jpg
PXL_20210713_211023040.jpg
PXL_20210713_211043103.jpg
PXL_20210713_211120412.jpg
PXL_20210713_211154995.jpg


It all appears to turn over and the plugs look rich, but no rust or anything weird going on.

Thanks for any help!
 
nothing special... Peanut plug head (they eliminated drool tubes after 74/ ALL /6 heads after that, look like your pix after 74/ completely interchangeable)
"E" on the ID pad means cast crank, while your 74 would have a forged crank. so its newer engine than mid 76. all /6 after that were cast crank. you can unbolt your mounts, drop it in your Dart, and run it as is. there are internal differences to the block to compensate for tne cast crank (bearings are narrower on the cast crank engines) Nothing special, not a Canada/US thing, it's a newer slant/older slant thing. The one in your car is "older style" the one you just got is "newer style" Head wand manifolds would interchange with yours, engine as a whole unit would interchange. I didn't look that close, at the sump. is it at the back? If so it was last in a truck or van. If so, swap your current pan and oil pickup and drop it in. Good candidate for the "drop in a corner as a spare engine" that you suggest.
 
according to this the head is a 75-80
1975-80 225
3.7
3.40
L-6 Crank Centering Ring
2.157", Mech. Lifters 2806830 2463430 4027600-5 3698447-1 4104362

 
Didn't the valve cover change slightly for the peanut plug head? I don't know but I thought I heard that somewhere...maybe it was the bearings.....
 
pishta said:
Didn't the valve cover change slightly for the peanut plug head? I don't know but I thought I heard that somewhere...maybe it was the bearings.....
Click to expand...
Looking through older posts I found someone saying they should work up to 80. Then they get different after that.
I will likely swap mine over this weekend. Along with drool tube gaskets and some engine cleaning and hopefully it'll stop leaking. It's not enough to drip, but enough to be unsightly.
 
pishta said:
Didn't the valve cover change slightly for the peanut plug head? I don't know but I thought I heard that somewhere...maybe it was the bearings.....
Click to expand...
Narrow rod bearing for sure on cast cranks... dunno if the mains were narrower on the cast cranks as well.

Seeing how people are so interested over the serial details... reminds me how 'into' the slants I used to be. Now it's just a cast crank slant I'd ditch the crank,rods, and even head because iirr it weighs more than the tube head.
 
A56 said:
according to this the head is a 75-80
1975-80 225
3.7
3.40
L-6 Crank Centering Ring
2.157", Mech. Lifters 2806830 2463430 4027600-5 3698447-1 4104362
Click to expand...

So
3.7,
3.40
2.157"
And all those other numbers....
What do these mean?!

Also thank you for this! Not sure how you got all that info.
 
mtldart said:
So
3.7,
3.40
2.157"
And all those other numbers....
What do these mean?!

Also thank you for this! Not sure how you got all that info.
Click to expand...
Google.... type in mopar six cylinder head casting numbers
 
pishta said:
Didn't the valve cover change slightly for the peanut plug head? I don't know but I thought I heard that somewhere...maybe it was the bearings.....
Click to expand...
not all peanut plug heads, only the new-newer ones (81-up) with hyd lifters. the solid lifter/adjustable lash versions still took the same VC as the drool tube heads.
and the change to narrower bearings was not related to the switch from drool tube to peanut heads, but rather from forged crank to cast crank.
 
Ok, I thought the bearings and the cast crank came as same time of the hydraulic lifters and different VC , my mistake.
 
volaredon said:
not all peanut plug heads, only the new-newer ones (81-up) with hyd lifters. the solid lifter/adjustable lash versions still took the same VC as the drool tube heads.
and the change to narrower bearings was not related to the switch from drool tube to peanut heads, but rather from forged crank to cast crank.
Click to expand...
Hey Don, wheres his red X ?
 
Hey @Charrlie_S
Don 'like a few on here now, including you' love to hit the X on people AND NEVER explain why or have a rebuttal.


There was nothing wrong in what I said..except that I said it, right.
If you like that, watch how many help or respond in the future to your brain fart posts where romanticize about tiny motors making glorious amounts of power 'in your mind' ...till almost any new pos hp 4 banger leaves you and your delusions in the tire smoke.
Now I remember why I got out of the slant sucks crowd.


Next time I'll Honda or Toyota V6 blows by you .... think of me.
:rofl:



@toolmanmike

This forum adopt a blocking that would not allow those blocked to even view posts by the person that blocked them.
 
I like the cast crank motors. I want one. The cranks are a good bit lighter and no way will they ever make enough power to break one. You could build one to rip up pretty quick. I'd like to find out. I've been lookin for one for a while now.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
Hey @Charrlie_S
Don 'like a few on here now, including you' love to hit the X on people AND NEVER explain why or have a rebuttal.


There was nothing wrong in what I said..except that I said it, right.
If you like that, watch how many help or respond in the future to your brain fart posts where romanticize about tiny motors making glorious amounts of power 'in your mind' ...till almost any new pos hp 4 banger leaves you and your delusions in the tire smoke.
Now I remember why I got out of the slant sucks crowd.


Next time I'll Honda or Toyota V6 blows by you .... think of me.
:rofl:



@toolmanmike

This forum adopt a blocking that would not allow those blocked to even view posts by the person that blocked them.
Click to expand...

Clean your inbox out, cheese eater.
 
A56 said:
Google.... type in mopar six cylinder head casting numbers
Click to expand...
ah thanks. must be something with the way google gives me info (its different for everyone) because when i search for that all i get is older FABO threads and then a few irrelevant v8 block info. I did some digging and I think i narrowed down what they all mean but who knows.
 
mtldart said:
ah thanks. must be something with the way google gives me info (its different for everyone) because when i search for that all i get is older FABO threads and then a few irrelevant v8 block info. I did some digging and I think i narrowed down what they all mean but who knows.
Click to expand...
Search "all par" and "mopar head casting numbers" also search "mopar block casting numbers". You'll find out you do not need anyone to know what they mean. Good luck.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I like the cast crank motors. I want one. The cranks are a good bit lighter and no way will they ever make enough power to break one. You could build one to rip up pretty quick. I'd like to find out. I've been lookin for one for a while now.
Click to expand...
I cross drill steel crankshaft for full-time oiling. After a 150K the bearings look brand new.
You go through the rear register and weld or tap in the appropriate plug.
I also make windage trays that sandwich between the oil pan gasket.
I port and flow test the head with average numbers around 200-210 int /155 exh cfm by .500-.550 using the 1.70/1.44
Stock size valves I get around 180cfm.
Exh 135-145cfm.
I use Schneider cams for the slant stuff.
I've milled .040-.120 from the heads and or block. I usually mill .020 off the block and .040 -.080 off the head depending.
They are neat, but the mid range just isn't enough until a turbo is bolted on for them to be REAL multi purpose street strip power plants..which is fine. They were never intended to be power houses...and they only went nascar to keep with competitions econo cars..in a time where hp ruled and respect was still something you earned.
It's not the slant 6 that's the problem ...mostly, it's the people that think they are IT that are the problem. Obsessed would be a close description.
If you hit the X...it's your declaration of homosexuality.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
I cross drill steel crankshaft for full-time oiling. After a 150K the bearings look brand new.
You go through the rear register and weld or tap in the appropriate plug.
I also make windage trays that sandwich between the oil pan gasket.
I port and flow test the head with average numbers around 200-210 int /155 exh cfm by .500-.550 using the 1.70/1.44
Stock size valves I get around 180cfm.
Exh 135-145cfm.
I use Schneider cams for the slant stuff.
I've milled .040-.120 from the heads and or block. I usually mill .020 off the block and .040 -.080 off the head depending.
They are neat, but the mid range just isn't enough until a turbo is bolted on for them to be REAL multi purpose street strip power plants..which is fine. They were never intended to be power houses...and they only went nascar to keep with competitions econo cars..in a time where hp ruled and respect was still something you earned.
It's not the slant 6 that's the problem ...mostly, it's the people that think they are IT that are the problem. Obsessed would be a close description.
If you hit the X...it's your declaration of homosexuality.
Click to expand...

Now why on Earth would I hit the red X? I'll tell you you're full of **** if I need to. But I don't disagree with any of that. Clean your inbox out. dork
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
I cross drill steel crankshaft for full-time oiling. After a 150K the bearings look brand new.
You go through the rear register and weld or tap in the appropriate plug.
I also make windage trays that sandwich between the oil pan gasket.
I port and flow test the head with average numbers around 200-210 int /155 exh cfm by .500-.550 using the 1.70/1.44
Stock size valves I get around 180cfm.
Exh 135-145cfm.
I use Schneider cams for the slant stuff.
I've milled .040-.120 from the heads and or block. I usually mill .020 off the block and .040 -.080 off the head depending.
They are neat, but the mid range just isn't enough until a turbo is bolted on for them to be REAL multi purpose street strip power plants..which is fine. They were never intended to be power houses...and they only went nascar to keep with competitions econo cars..in a time where hp ruled and respect was still something you earned.
It's not the slant 6 that's the problem ...mostly, it's the people that think they are IT that are the problem. Obsessed would be a close description.
If you hit the X...it's your declaration of homosexuality.
Click to expand...
Ok that's enough.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
I cross drill steel crankshaft for full-time oiling. After a 150K the bearings look brand new.
You go through the rear register and weld or tap in the appropriate plug.
I also make windage trays that sandwich between the oil pan gasket.
I port and flow test the head with average numbers around 200-210 int /155 exh cfm by .500-.550 using the 1.70/1.44
Stock size valves I get around 180cfm.
Exh 135-145cfm.
I use Schneider cams for the slant stuff.
I've milled .040-.120 from the heads and or block. I usually mill .020 off the block and .040 -.080 off the head depending.
They are neat, but the mid range just isn't enough until a turbo is bolted on for them to be REAL multi purpose street strip power plants..which is fine. They were never intended to be power houses...and they only went nascar to keep with competitions econo cars..in a time where hp ruled and respect was still something you earned.
It's not the slant 6 that's the problem ...mostly, it's the people that think they are IT that are the problem. Obsessed would be a close description.
If you hit the X...it's your declaration of homosexuality.
Click to expand...

I may get a second set of mains for this upcoming motor to run full grooves.
 
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