Help ID motor. Potentially/likely canadian
- Thread starter mtldart
- Start date
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MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
When I was doing all that ...I couldn't find any full Groove bearings.
Nobody makes um. That's why you gotta buy two sets.
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
performance Slant-6 just got a little more expensive
Occupational hazard. lol
Charrlie_S
Well-Known Member
I just add the groove to the lower bearing shell, with a die grinder and cutoff wheel. Looks totally backwoods but works.
The High and Mighty looked backwoods as hell, but it hauled ***.
again Rusty.. "wasn't you".
and on your full groove bearings.... scout out Ebay. there's lots out there to be had for our engines.
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
Yeehaw
Charrlie_S
Well-Known Member
I have never seen full groove mains for a slant six. Can you post a link?
Not good at actual computer stuff. Like links.
Not 110% sure you're gonna find what you're looking for, but thought it might be worth a try.
(at any given time who knows what's gonna pop up there) just a suggestion/ since I have gotten alot of my parts there.
Not 110% sure you're gonna find what you're looking for, but thought it might be worth a try.
(at any given time who knows what's gonna pop up there) just a suggestion/ since I have gotten alot of my parts there.
Full groove. Buy 2 sets and use just the grooved bearings. There you have your "full grooved"
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See I learned something.
Charrlie_S
Well-Known Member
The biggest problem with using two sets of bearings, is the "tab" location. You can't just put an upper bearing shell in the cap. The old mopar performance book says to file the tab off the bearing. I don't like that, for two reasons. One, if you leave the tab just a little bit proud (high), it will change the bearing clearance at that point. Two, you will need to do this every time you change bearings. What I did was modify the notch in the cap with a die grinder and wheel. But then I still needed to waste money buying two sets of bearings. So what I have been doing for the last 40 years is using the die grinder and a cutoff wheel to put a groove in the lower stock bearing shell. It looks like crap, but it works. Granted I'm not makeing tons of power (I'm in the 300hp range) but I have not had a oil/bearing related failure since 1976, and I turn some of my 170's close to 7,000 rpm
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
Perfect example of what I'm talking about.
No, we learned something today about you.
Ignore list for you now.
slantsixdan
=..=
7: Engine built for a 1977-model vehicle
225: Engine displacement
10 1: Engine built on 1 October 1976
E: Cast crankshaft
That stamping you can't quite read at the rear of the distributor side of the block is a partial VIN (last I-forget-how-many-digits) of the vehicle this engine was first installed in.
slantsixdan
=..=
Me, I'm having no luck figuring out how millions of Slant-Six engines lasted numerous decades and hundreds of thousands of miles/km all over the world with the pathetic oils, inferior filters, and dirty-burning gasolines that were available at the time…without artisanal organic unsalted shade-grown dew-harvested triple-malt executive-strength gluten-free hand-milled full-grooved bearings. I can't tell if I'm under- or overthinking, but it's almost as if…like…I donno…you could just…like…somehow…carefully put the freakin' thing together with the specified bearings and use an appropriate grade of today's massively superior oils and have everything…work just fine? Or something?
Charrlie_S
Well-Known Member
Back in the '70's, when I first started racing slants, I had a problem with #5 rod bearing. Made a few minor oiling system mods, and added full groove mains. Rod bearing problem solved. Just because a engine has no problems in its "as designed, as built for intended use, does not mean improvements are not neccessary, when the engine is not used as intended.
Just stating what worked for me. When I first started racing slants, back in the '70's, with a legal "stock eliminator" engine, I had no problems. When I added a Crane cam, milled head and more carb, I started have problems with #5 rod bearing. Went to full groove mains, and that cured the problem.
PS: Back in the days, when slants were plentifull in junk yards, if it was a failed engine, it was probably #5 rod bearing.
Yeah slantzilla has one (not a racer-yet anyway)
A '78 F body with real low miles (less than 100k for sure, can't remember exactly the number) and a knock on #5.
For those that don't know, slantzilla is a member who posts alot on the .org site.
A '78 F body with real low miles (less than 100k for sure, can't remember exactly the number) and a knock on #5.
For those that don't know, slantzilla is a member who posts alot on the .org site.
slantsixdan
=..=
Totally agree; no debate there.
But which part of the OP's I got the motor as an attempt to grab some spare parts off it, maybe rebuild to learn on, or just to look at menacingly...if this thing will bolt right in to my car if mine ***** the bed then it's worth sitting in a corner for a decade suggests usage that would call for full-groove bearings…?
That's what I was reacting to, was the religious war that got started in this thread over a bearing modification that doesn't really seem applicable for this engine.
Charrlie_S
Well-Known Member
Gotcha
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