Ok that's enough.
lol
Ok that's enough.
When I was doing all that ...I couldn't find any full Groove bearings.I may get a second set of mains for this upcoming motor to run full grooves.
When I was doing all that ...I couldn't find any full Groove bearings.
performance Slant-6 just got a little more expensiveNobody makes um. That's why you gotta buy two sets.
performance Slant-6 just got a little more expensive
I just add the groove to the lower bearing shell, with a die grinder and cutoff wheel. Looks totally backwoods but works.Nobody makes um. That's why you gotta buy two sets.
I just add the groove to the lower bearing shell, with a die grinder and cutoff wheel. Looks totally backwoods but works.
again Rusty.. "wasn't you".Ok that's enough.
I have never seen full groove mains for a slant six. Can you post a link?again Rusty.. "wasn't you".
and on your full groove bearings.... scout out Ebay. there's lots out there to be had for our engines.
Full groove. Buy 2 sets and use just the grooved bearings. There you have your "full grooved"I have never seen full groove mains for a slant six. Can you post a link?
See I learned something.Nobody makes um. That's why you gotta buy two sets.
The biggest problem with using two sets of bearings, is the "tab" location. You can't just put an upper bearing shell in the cap. The old mopar performance book says to file the tab off the bearing. I don't like that, for two reasons. One, if you leave the tab just a little bit proud (high), it will change the bearing clearance at that point. Two, you will need to do this every time you change bearings. What I did was modify the notch in the cap with a die grinder and wheel. But then I still needed to waste money buying two sets of bearings. So what I have been doing for the last 40 years is using the die grinder and a cutoff wheel to put a groove in the lower stock bearing shell. It looks like crap, but it works. Granted I'm not makeing tons of power (I'm in the 300hp range) but I have not had a oil/bearing related failure since 1976, and I turn some of my 170's close to 7,000 rpmFull groove. By 2 sets and use just the grooved bearings. There you have your "full grooved"
again Rusty.. "wasn't you".
and on your full groove bearings.... scout out Ebay. there's lots out there to be had for our engines.
See I learned something.
The pad behind the alternator says: 7225 10 (or C) 1 E
Back in the '70's, when I first started racing slants, I had a problem with #5 rod bearing. Made a few minor oiling system mods, and added full groove mains. Rod bearing problem solved. Just because a engine has no problems in its "as designed, as built for intended use, does not mean improvements are not neccessary, when the engine is not used as intended.Me, I'm having no luck figuring out how millions of Slant-Six engines lasted numerous decades and hundreds of thousands of miles/km all over the world with the pathetic oils, inferior filters, and dirty-burning gasolines that were available at the time…without artisanal organic unsalted shade-grown dew-harvested triple-malt executive-strength gluten-free hand-milled full-grooved bearings. I can't tell if I'm under- or overthinking, but it's almost as if…like…I donno…you could just…like…somehow…carefully put the freakin' thing together with the specified bearings and use an appropriate grade of today's massively superior oils and have everything…work just fine? Or something?
Just stating what worked for me. When I first started racing slants, back in the '70's, with a legal "stock eliminator" engine, I had no problems. When I added a Crane cam, milled head and more carb, I started have problems with #5 rod bearing. Went to full groove mains, and that cured the problem.Me, I'm having no luck figuring out how millions of Slant-Six engines lasted numerous decades and hundreds of thousands of miles/km all over the world with the pathetic oils, inferior filters, and dirty-burning gasolines that were available at the time…without artisanal organic unsalted shade-grown dew-harvested triple-malt executive-strength gluten-free hand-milled full-grooved bearings. I can't tell if I'm under- or overthinking, but it's almost as if…like…I donno…you could just…like…somehow…carefully put the freakin' thing together with the specified bearings and use an appropriate grade of today's massively superior oils and have everything…work just fine? Or something?
Back in the '70's, when I first started racing slants, I had a problem with #5 rod bearing. Made a few minor oiling system mods, and added full groove mains. Rod bearing problem solved. Just because a engine has no problems in its "as designed, as built for intended use, does not mean improvements are not neccessary, when the engine is not used as intended.
GotchaTotally agree; no debate there.
But which part of the OP's I got the motor as an attempt to grab some spare parts off it, maybe rebuild to learn on, or just to look at menacingly...if this thing will bolt right in to my car if mine ***** the bed then it's worth sitting in a corner for a decade suggests usage that would call for full-groove bearings…?
That's what I was reacting to, was the religious war that got started in this thread over a bearing modification that doesn't really seem applicable for this engine.