Disc Brake Conversion on A100

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RAT ROD AL

RAT ROD AL

MOPAR ARCHAEOLOGIST - one parts hoard at a time!
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Been gathering info and parts for a front disc swap. Parts finally filtering in. Got the Caliper plates from Scarebird and most the rest from RockAuto. I have a roadtrip coming up in a week so I gonna hold off till I get back. Hopefully all this will swap over without alot of down time. Anyone else have already done this or is interested in doing it stay posted and some tips on any problems you might have run into doing this. So what I know so far is Scarebirds site say these plates only fit the #2200 axle. I ordered some kingpins and looks like my axle takes the pins for a #2500 axle. Both kingpin sets have the same size pin just a little different hardware. Any info on the difference there would be nice to know before I get started.

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OK , Got all my parts. First things first, I pulled the drums and hub to make sure the brackets fit the spindle . Awsome , they fit , I'm in business .
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Looks like my wheels will clear the calipers also.



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Next step is to get the hubs out of the drums. They are swedged in. won't just knock out, so now I guess I'll need to find a shop. Hopefully a shop that turns rotors and drums can cut em off. Really hate to ruin the drums incase I have to reuse them. So this project came to a screeching halt already. To be continued ! Any Ideas on what kind of shop or way to get em ?
 
So what is swedged? The lug studs in the drum? I was understanding the hub where it sticks through the drum, NO ? Just the studs?
 
Can't answer for the hub thru the drum, but as for the studs... on my son's 65 B'cuda, we drilled the center of the stud out from the back sidejust a hair smaller than the stud diameter and deep enough to be past the swedging. Then we ground the remaining head off the back. Took a punch/drift and drove the studs out from the back side. Did not damage the stud holes at all.

As for the drum/hub..... We bent the hell out of the center of the drums when we pressed the hubs out. They were trash anyway, so we didn't care.
 
ragtopfury said:
Can't answer for the hub thru the drum, but as for the studs... on my son's 65 B'cuda, we drilled the center of the stud out from the back sidejust a hair smaller than the stud diameter and deep enough to be past the swedging. Then we ground the remaining head off the back. Took a punch/drift and drove the studs out from the back side. Did not damage the stud holes at all.

As for the drum/hub..... We bent the hell out of the center of the drums when we pressed the hubs out. They were trash anyway, so we didn't care.
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Yea , thats what I'm afraid of. I would like to save the drums if possible. They look like they have been replaced not long ago. I would think someone would have had to un swedge these to swap the drums. I can't believe the drums are 50 years old and look new.
 
The drum has no wear in side, looks like it has been replaced not long ago.. Can you tell by this pic if the swedge has already been removed?
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RAT ROD AL said:
The drum has no wear in side, looks like it has been replaced not long ago.. Can you tell by this pic if the swedge has already been removed?View attachment 1715236153
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Yes that hub has swedge studs and No it has not been removed. The hole is not but, the swedge will ruin the drum if you drive it through. I have the Scarebird conversion on my 64 D100. Prior to the upgrade I had to fix hub with stud. I used the cheap 5/8 metal hole saw trick. It worked for me. The front drums are not reproduced!!! Save them. Craig
 
my5thmopar said:
Yes that hub has swedge studs and No it has not been removed. The hole is not but, the swedge will ruin the drum if you drive it through. I have the Scarebird conversion on my 64 D100. Prior to the upgrade I had to fix hub with stud. I used the cheap 5/8 metal hole saw trick. It worked for me. The front drums are not reproduced!!! Save them. Craig
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Thanks for the info.
I wonder where the guy got these drums. They look brand new. Has all new brakes and drums on all 4 .
 
Anyone know where to pick up one of these metal hole saws. Home depot, northern tool, harbor freight?
 
Got back to work on the brake conversion today. After gathering info from members, I decided to knock the studs out from the back side to save the drums.(Thanks my5thmopar.)Turns out it wasn't as bad as I thought. Drilled the heads of the studs in side the drum deep enough to not get into the hub with a 1/2 " bit and then just punch em off the rest of the way with an air hammer. Then just clean up the buggers.

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The center hole of the rotor is a little to small to fit on the hub so I just opened it up enough to fit with a rotary file. So all the parts are going together as ScareBird said. NICE. And it's a pretty easy swap and pretty cheap.

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The stock size wheel studs are not long enough with the rotors on so I have to find some a little longer But all in all I should be able to keep the project around $300, not counting a master cylinder and prop valve! The plates from ScareBird and come with a detailed parts list was $130 and the brake parts I got from Rockauto after shipping was round $140, and I still need some studs.And since I was able to save the drums and all the brakes were like new I might be able to recoupe some back. I will continue this as I progress if anyone else would consider this swap for their ride.
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Ok, wheel studs came in today Had to get some a little longer than the original ones because the rotor is thicker than the drum face
 
Got it all assembled , use the master cylinder that was on the van for now. road tested and all seems ok stops better and alot straighter.

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pretty simple conversion really, total cost @ $350. May get a different master cylinder later but I have a road trip in the morning so I'll get a better idea if I need one or not. Hope the old van don't leave me sittin on side of the road along the way !!

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It’s all proven parts so it should work well. The sweptline guys like that set up. Some go with that clown the ram man because it uses “dodge” parts. Problem I see is it has specially machined spacers. I’d rather have all off the shelf parts like your set up.
 
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RAT ROD AL said:
The stock size wheel studs are not long enough with the rotors on so I have to find some a little longer But all in all I should be able to keep the project around $300, not counting a master cylinder and prop valve! The plates from ScareBird and come with a detailed parts list was $130 and the brake parts I got from Rockauto after shipping was round $140, and I still need some studs.And since I was able to save the drums and all the brakes were like new I might be able to recoupe some back. I will continue this as I progress if anyone else would consider this swap for their ride.
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Hey I know this is old but my son bough a 66 a100 window van is is doing the disc brakes. What longer studs did you use? and did you change out the master?
 
I got the studs from rockauto. Can't remember exactly what they were.
. Bought a few different types. Seems like 5hey may have been for a GM pickup.. My van already had a dual reservoir M/C
 
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