Lunati Cam - Advance ground in ?

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lead69 said:
What engine are you putting this in?, I built a 360 with that cam and it's a beast.
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Gonna freshen a 360 that has a bad bore. H116 pistons. Just tore down the core 360 i got from my brother. He also gave me some IMM prepped indy-x heads.
Figure the heads might help out the low end a bit with the cam i got..
 
lead69 said:
I just want to know what he's building with that cam, It's an ultradyne NF62 :D
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oh yeah. Thanks. Looks like i should see 162. @.200” if i end up checking that.

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cookietruck said:
Gonna freshen a 360 that has a bad bore. H116 pistons. Just tore down the core 360 i got from my brother. He also gave me some IMM prepped indy-x heads.
Figure the heads might help out the low end a bit with the cam i got..
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Get the compression up to 10.5 and it will rip. Built a 360 with that cam, 10.5 compression, speed master heads and an rpm intake and it made some power. I have a video of it on the break in stand some where if your interested. In my opinion it really isn't that big of a cam for a 360 being a solid, just a touch wider lobe separation than I would want, just get the compression up and it will be good.
 
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Cookie,
To answer your original question now that you have posted the full cam specs. It does have 6* of advance ground into it. If you install it dot-to-dot, the ICL should be 104*. All of this is theoretical & hinges on the accuracy of the sum of the parts: the cam grinding, timing chain set, crank etc. That is why it is a good idea to degree the cam because of all the parts involved that have to 'line up' to give you the 104 ICL.
I wouldn't lose any sleep if the ICL was out a couple of degrees either way.
 
Get a 9-keyway timing set if you haven’t gotten anything yet. I like options.
 
70dart340 said:
I've had a solid roller cam from their Voodoo series since March. I'm done with them. Poor communication, and no updates on my order. I'm looking for a big solid roller cam and lifters. Not to hijack the thread, but looking for advice from the members on this site.
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I like the looks of some of the solid roller “catalog grinds” Howard’s has listed, and they also have plenty of other lobe profiles if you don’t see something that suits your needs/wants.
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https://www.howardscams.com/sites/default/files/lobe list email 1-20-2014.pdf
 
Here you go, not the best video but at least I held the phone pretty steady, it comes up quick, idling around 900
 
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dang this inflation and supply chain problems.
ordered some PRW rockers a week ago for $483, just noticed that the price jumped to $540
also bought some fancy comp EDM lifters because I didn't see regular solids available at many places, so it goes huh...
 
Rmoore said:
If he is going to degree the cam in, he will have all the answers to his questions ! He has been told repeatedly on how to do this ! And it doesn’t matter if you call it straight up, straight back or peanut butter ! Call it what you want ! And it doesn’t matter where you put your timing set !! If you degree the cam in you still will have to move it most likely to get the ICL to 104 ! So all of it really doesn’t matter ! Degree the cam in and make your adjustment to get the desired ICL 104 ! It’s that simple
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I disagree, it DOES matter what You call it, sloppy terminology has no place in technical discussion. Dot-to-Dot is NOT straight-up! I agree that if the OP is going to check it, He will ultimately end up at the correct ICL, but that's NOT what was asked.
The answer is;
1) YES the advance is almost always ground-in to the cam per spec sheet
2) NO don't start by installing it 6deg advanced using whatever adjustable method You are employing. Start with a -0- adv setting, check & correct as needed.
And for God's sakes, STOP YELLING EVERYBODY!!!! LOL!,........
 
Killer6 said:
I disagree, it DOES matter what You call it, sloppy terminology has no place in technical discussion. Dot-to-Dot is NOT straight-up! I agree that if the OP is going to check it, He will ultimately end up at the correct ICL, but that's NOT what was asked.
The answer is;
1) YES the advance is almost always ground-in to the cam per spec sheet
2) NO don't start by installing it 6deg advanced using whatever adjustable method You are employing. Start with a -0- adv setting, check & correct as needed.
And for God's sakes, STOP YELLING EVERYBODY!!!! LOL!,........
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I cannot agree more....on all counts.
 
Yeeeeessss it miiiight beeee. If the cam is ground that way. Dooooon't count on iiiit. LOL
 
Killer6 said:
I disagree, it DOES matter what You call it, sloppy terminology has no place in technical discussion. Dot-to-Dot is NOT straight-up! I agree that if the OP is going to check it, He will ultimately end up at the correct ICL, but that's NOT what was asked.
The answer is;
1) YES the advance is almost always ground-in to the cam per spec sheet
2) NO don't start by installing it 6deg advanced using whatever adjustable method You are employing. Start with a -0- adv setting, check & correct as needed.
And for God's sakes, STOP YELLING EVERYBODY!!!! LOL!,........
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You are correct on your play on words.. My whole point in saying what i said was to make the point, it doesn't matter if he puts it dot to dot or not.. If the OP degrees the camshaft in and does it correctly the end result will be the same, no matter where you start .. I've went to someone's house and degreed their cam in cause the car didn't run up to par.. I didn't take their timing set off and put it dot to dot before i started .. Two reasons why i don't do that. 1) I want to know where the camshaft is installed before i start. 2) Why would I do that ? Now if I'm installing a different camshaft and I already have it all apart , yes I'm going to install it dot to dot, then degree the camshaft.. I will assure you the motor doesn't care if dot to dot is called straight up or not ! Good grief .. Call it what ever makes you happy .. Degree the camshaft in, the OP's questions will be answered about the advance of the camshaft and timing events . That's just the real life facts .. I used periods this time lol . Make all the key board hero's happy lol .
 
Here's how I always start. I don't start dot to dot. I start with "wherever" the cam card says. In other words, if it says LSA 112 and ICL 108, I advance the crank gear the 4*. Doesn't always work, but it usually gets it close. Like we've all said, in a perfect world, the crank gear on zero (dot to dot) would be WHERE the cam card says, but it rarely ever works out like that. Plus, using my method "usually" ends up a little more advanced from where the cam card recommends and that's where "I" prefer most. Because advancing a tad more than the card gives you room for chain stretch and also adds a little more to the bottom than it takes from the top, which is a good trade off, IMO. Of course, if you're on the ragged edge of detonation, you have to be careful, which is why I always use a compression gauge in conjunction with a degree wheel and why I highly recommend it.
 
IQ52 said:
Yeeeeessss it miiiight beeee. If the cam is ground that way. Dooooon't count on iiiit. LOL
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Lol, correct, but stating installing a cam dot-to-dot IS installing it "straight-up" is flat-out false. It isn't a matter of "call it whatever makes You happy", it's a matter of whether advance is or isn't ground into the cam, I order custom grinds straight-up & take the job of advancing on My own.
 
I should have degreed the MP 484 in my 340, a few folks told me it wasn't necessary. And someone liked my.degree wheel more than I did... I wish I would have, and not just so " I know" but because, then "I Would Know" who knows, a few ° may have Givin me a benefit....and the chain was a hex adjust. Wouldn't have been a. Issue
 
Ironracer said:
I should have degreed the MP 484 in my 340, a few folks told me it wasn't necessary. And someone liked my.degree wheel more than I did... I wish I would have, and not just so " I know" but because, then "I Would Know" who knows, a few ° may have Givin me a benefit....and the chain was a hex adjust. Wouldn't have been a. Issue
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That one and the MP 508 are some cylinder pressure eatin mugs and normally need advancing a good bit. Especially the 508, but they can both haul the mail with a little more than the recommended advance, especially because most people put them in engines with too low static compression. The MP 508 for example, IMO needs a minimum of 11:1 static compression and 12 would work better. It's just really too big for a hydraulic cam, imo, and they made one one step bigger, the .533/320. LMAO
 
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