Pictures needed for 273 motor mounts in a 65 Dart/Valiant

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Kern Dog

Kern Dog

Build your car to handle.
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Hello everyone,
I have a 65 Valiant here that I got in multiple pieces. I am getting ready to set a rebuilt 318 in tomorrow and am trying to figure out which motor mounts I need to use. I have a pile of mounts in the garage but I don't know which ones are correct or which ones are not correct but will still work.
Can you help post some pictures of a stock setup or something OEM from another application that worked? I did a search but couldn't find many useful pictures.
 
These are what I have found.
The red engine is a 318 that had these mounts on it. It was a '72 engine installed in a 65 Dart. I don't think they are correct but they did fit.

318 1.JPG


Do those look like a factory set for a 67-72?

I saw these in another thread:

273 1.JPG


273 2.JPG


273 3.JPG
 
Is it true that the engine brackets always mount behind the cast in lugs on the block? It is that way with the big blocks so I thought it might be the same with the LA series engines too.
 
Kern Dog said:
Is it true that the engine brackets always mount behind the cast in lugs on the block? It is that way with the big blocks so I thought it might be the same with the LA series engines too.
Click to expand...
The block ears are different widths so the brackets only fit correctly one way.
 
Mike, I see the 90 degree oil filter adapter there. I thought they only used those on 340 cars because the RH manifold put the down pipe too close to the filter in the regular position. Did they actually use that adapter for other reasons?
Thanks for the help, guys.
 
Kern Dog said:
Mike, I see the 90 degree oil filter adapter there. I thought they only used those on 340 cars because the RH manifold put the down pipe too close to the filter in the regular position. Did they actually use that adapter for other reasons?
Thanks for the help, guys.
Click to expand...
All the 273's I believe.
 
The dealer used to have them separately, but, I haven't tried to buy one lately.
 
Commando66 said:
Using a later water pump, pulleys, alternator brackets and radiator?
Click to expand...
Yeah.....Aluminum WP and later pulleys. Manual steering. The owner is indifferent but another helper is fond of those Toyota internally regulated alternators so it will get wired for one of those.
 
mopowers said:
How'd the install go???
Click to expand...
Engine is in, bolted up to the trans using motor mounts that I already had here. The pictures you guys posted helped a LOT.

Off topic but...I like the color of the Dakota in this picture:

100_4778-jpg.jpg


Back on point....
Installing these engines in the early A cars poses some exhaust clearance problems as you all know. I have an assortment of manifolds from cars and trucks but the first setup we tried was from a mid to late 70s Aspen/Diplomat or some 318-360 V8 car. The LH has the outlet below # 5 and 7 port but the body of the manifold was against the steering coupler. In another car (64 Valiant) these guys used a universal joint coupler for that setup. I wanted to see what other combinations might work with what I have here.
An early 273-318 LH cleared everything. They fit fine on an early 318 but this 1987 318 has those air injection holes below the exhaust ports. The flat spot for the air ports prevented the manifold from sitting flat to the head. I've seen this before. In the past, I just took a grinder and shaved off some of the flat spot until the manifold fit.
This time, I ground through the casting and made a hole....Yeah, right into a water jacket. It could have been a matter of core shift or a thin spot like I've heard of in some cases.
The fix....?
The hole in the head could probably be brazed. It is about 1/4" x 1/4". If not, we have other heads to use. The guys are going to use the 318-360 manifold and the universal joint steering coupler.
That is unless someone knows of another manifold that fits these cars without modifications.
What about the rear outlet manifolds from Dakota and 5.2-5.9 full size trucks?
 
Kern Dog said:
Engine is in, bolted up to the trans using motor mounts that I already had here. The pictures you guys posted helped a LOT.

Off topic but...I like the color of the Dakota in this picture:

View attachment 1715835066

Back on point....
Installing these engines in the early A cars poses some exhaust clearance problems as you all know. I have an assortment of manifolds from cars and trucks but the first setup we tried was from a mid to late 70s Aspen/Diplomat or some 318-360 V8 car. The LH has the outlet below # 5 and 7 port but the body of the manifold was against the steering coupler. In another car (64 Valiant) these guys used a universal joint coupler for that setup. I wanted to see what other combinations might work with what I have here.
An early 273-318 LH cleared everything. They fit fine on an early 318 but this 1987 318 has those air injection holes below the exhaust ports. The flat spot for the air ports prevented the manifold from sitting flat to the head. I've seen this before. In the past, I just took a grinder and shaved off some of the flat spot until the manifold fit.
This time, I ground through the casting and made a hole....Yeah, right into a water jacket. It could have been a matter of core shift or a thin spot like I've heard of in some cases.
The fix....?
The hole in the head could probably be brazed. It is about 1/4" x 1/4". If not, we have other heads to use. The guys are going to use the 318-360 manifold and the universal joint steering coupler.
That is unless someone knows of another manifold that fits these cars without modifications.
What about the rear outlet manifolds from Dakota and 5.2-5.9 full size trucks?
Click to expand...
The Dakota was kind of a burnt orange.
 
I like colors that are not the same old white, black, silver or gray.
 
From this thread:
318\a904 swap in 65 barracuda

See post # 12.

I found this:

You also need a plan for your exhaust- if you have power steering, you basically have one choice: the early A smallblock manifolds. BUT BEWARE! With your '87 motor, you have air injection ports below the exhaust ports that need to be plugged (search the thread under smallblock motors). After you do that, you'll find that the extended pad beneath the #7 port prevents the manifold from properly seating. A little judicious grinding with a Dremel USUALLY takes care of it, but go SLOWLY! If you take too much, or core shift is really bad, you run the risk of breaking into a coolant passage, and you've got a junk head on your hands (go ahead, ask me how I know...). At a minimum, you'll need the driver's side manifold- the truck manifold can work on the passenger side.
 
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