Gear vender

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Wish GV made an actual A-Body setup for a 4 speed instead of having to bastardize the B/E-Body kit. No reason for the stupid long adapter and having to use a different mainshaft and adapter for the shifter. I understand using what is existing, but sure would be a better fit if they actually made a specific kit.
 
DionR said:
but sure would be a better fit if they actually made a specific kit.
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I don't think it would;
As it is, with the long adapter, there is already nearly .7 inch NOT ENOUGH clearance. I had to bang my tunnel at least .25 in certain areas, and drop the rear mount at least .375, just to get anti-rattle room.
To get clearance for it, using the shorter tail; I think you would have to cut the floor out and raise the unit.
Yes sure you could just make a new rear mount to drop the tail, but then you run into problems with the U-joint working angles, especially with a lowered car. As it is with the long-tail, my set-up has just barely adequate working angle, and not 100% of the time.
IMO; GV choose the lessor of two evils.
Besides; the adapter comes with the unit, so you can do with it what you want, including sectioning it; be the first,lol.
 
DionR said:
As in engage OD between the regular gears?? Could that actually be done with an A500?
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I think there was a guy with a Challenger, on U-tube a few years ago who had done it, to an A518, so the splits are not that great.
2.45-1.69-1.45-1.00-1.00-.69od splits in red.
---.69---.86--.69---.00---.69.
It gives you a short shift from 1-od to Second and that's about all; well plus the od.
I suppose it could give you a rush with the right rear gear, like maybe 4.30s,
 
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I run 4.56 gear with my GVOD and turn about 2500 at 62mph. How can you beat that? Splitting gears the whole way up is a pain in the a$$. Splitting a gear to trap of go through town is a nice option. I have use 2nd + OD for both.

Now this new IQ52 engine isn't happy with 4.56's. I have to trap the 1/8th in 3rd and the 1/4 in 3rd + OD, which puts the engine on it's face at about 5,200 or so in the 1,320 and I can't tell you what it traps the 1/8th in anymore as i've only made quarter passes with it since the new engine was installed.
 
roccodart440 said:
Splitting gears the whole way up is a pain in the a$$.
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Are you still using the GV shift-module? Then I agree.

I recommend to bypass it for straightline acceleration. It will shift so hard and so fast; it barks the tires at 85mph in my combo.
Back when I still had the A833od/4.30s, I would sometimes, just for chits and giggles, take my engine up to ~2500 to 2800 and at Part Throttle, start splitting/shifting. The rpm drop is like 500 rpm, so, it it kinda sounded like a big diesel hiway tractor.... except occasionally barking the tires on the shift.... SIX gears to 65, and one to go, the dual 3" cannons singing a happy song.
Try that with a big-cammed smogger-teen, lol..............
and no, I don't hate 318s. At 8/1 advertised Scr, they just got not enough grunt for me.

But I don't run that combo anymore. Not splitting, the gears in the od-box were just too far apart.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Are you still using the GV shift-module? Then I agree.

I recommend to bypass it for straightline acceleration. It will shift so hard and so fast; it barks the tires at 85mph in my combo.
Back when I still had the A833od/4.30s, I would sometimes, just for chits and giggles, take my engine up to ~2500 to 2800 and at Part Throttle, start splitting/shifting. The rpm drop is like 500 rpm, so, it it kinda sounded like a big diesel hiway tractor.... except occasionally barking the tires on the shift.... SIX gears to 65, and one to go, the dual 3" cannons singing a happy song.
Try that with a big-cammed smogger-teen, lol..............
and no, I don't hate 318s. At 8/1 advertised Scr, they just got not enough grunt for me.

But I don't run that combo anymore. Not splitting, the gears in the od-box were just too far apart.
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How are you activating your GVOD?

The pita part is lets say 1st +OD, the when you go to 2nd you have shift and deactivate the GVOD, then reactivate to hit 2nd +OD and so and so on.

Am I missing something?

I use the box on manual and activate with the foot switch.
 
Room shouldn't be a problem on mine, it's a D150 long bed.
 
roccodart440 said:
How are you activating your GVOD?
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I have a manual transmission.
The GV supplied computer module is no longer used; I think I used it for maybe one day. As a splitter, it shifts painfully slow. So I shelved it. In another thread I said I had never used it but I forgot that it was installed for a few hours.
What I did was install a tiny micro switch into my shift-ball and used it to trigger a relay to engage the shift-solenoid.I installed a small LED under my tach to indicate when it is engaged.
It still takes a few micro-seconds to shift, but those are burned up during the pulling of the stick; and on full-throttle runs, I don't clutch on the upshifts.
To outshift at WOT, I hit the electric-shift switch a few micro-seconds before tugging on the stick, and make no other concessions to the shift. By the time I have completed the shift, the GV is out.
On the inshift,at WOT, I just hit the button and let her rip, no clutch; BAM! 1350 U-joints solved the carnage,lol.
For use Around town; I decreased the clamp load on the CenterForce, and installed an organic disc. I found the CFII disc too harsh. The flyweights give me all the clamping I need for my little 367. I shift at 2800 around town, before the flyweights begin to kick in.
My ROAD-ratios with 4.30s and the CommandoA833 are 10.97-8.56-6.82-5.32, splits of .78-.80-.78; these are what I used in the Eighth, for 93@about 6200(with 27" tires)
Splitting a Torqueflite at WOT, I think would be a sort of breakeven situation in the Eighth, Cuz what you gain in the shorter powerband, you may lose in the outshifts. But if you gear it right, it will give you a short shift from Second (torqueflite) to 2-od, which you might see in your 1320-ET. The rpm drop from 2 to 3 in the Torqueflite is .69, so shifting at say 6500, this is to 4500 for a drop of 2000rpm. Whereas with the GV it would be .78, and ~600 rpm less. To do that, the rear gear might have to be changed, leaving you with whatever TM you get, and so your 60ft might eat up the top-gear charge. IDK, hard to say. It sounds good in theory, but with a BB, IDK if it would be worth it. Your dyno curve might help settle it.
I know for my 367 combo, the four tight ratios, by weight and trapspeed, the Wallace kicks out 433 hp. I am pretty sure my 367 is not there with it's smallish 230*@.050cam, and just OOTB Eddies.

With a regular A833, splitting is is IMO not useful . The ratios are
2.66-1.92-1.40-1.00, with splits of .722-.729-.714, pretty tight already. but splitting adds , in red;
2.66-2.07-1.92-1.50-1.40-1.09-1.00-.78.... and splits of
---.78---.93--.78---.93--.78--.917--.78
As you can see by the .93/.92 type numbers, it's a lil abysmal.
 
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