318+laughing gas

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Josh owen

Josh owen

Bang em till it breaks
Joined
Dec 8, 2019
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Location
Bay city wisconsin
Well fellas i think i wanna try some spray on a 318. Stock bottom end, some ebay special cast .060 pistons. Hughes whiplash cam, speedmaster air gap dual plane(i know not ideal for spray) 4 speed duster. Now i have never messed with it before but I'm curious how this combination will work with just a 50-100 shot maybe 150 if things getting out of hand. Also which kit is best and which kit is beginner friendly and does anyone have a budget kit for sale
 
Its all new im not scared of blowing them up. Believe me ive blown up MANY doing other dumb things. Obviously i know its hard on things, its alot of extra heat that's why i was asking about just a sally little shot to see if its even worth it for 50 or 100
 
:lol:

OIP.jpg
 
Many have done 150 ahots on cast internals without issue. As previously stated in the thread, not recommended for a tired engine. If your rings are not gapped for nitrous, i would limit the amount of nitrous. Timing is critical, start with 2 degrees retarded per 50 hp shot. Put new plugs in before the first use, do a hard pass, immediately pull Over to read the plugs. Do not use extended electrode plugs. Adjust heat range and timing as needed. Most kits are fuel rich, you may have to adjust the fuel and nitrous jets.
 
I understand it to a degree, I'm not clueless with tuning and building been doing it.all my life ive just this year decided to try a nitrous engine and going to attempt to get my hands on a torque storm .

Now everything is this engine is new or or rebuilt been a crank up freshen up and upgrade as i said came back.from.machine shop after going 060over. It just sucks seeing bone stock LS engines take insane turbo abuse and nitrous shot after shot and not.a care in the world because bone stock they can handle it to a degree. I feel our 318s are like the LS to GM i feel left out and wanna send rods into orbit just simply seeing how far i can push it. And yes rings are not.gaped which im aware when they touch it breaks the piston but i guess I'll also ad this is not a bracket car, this is not a race car, this isn't one of my burn out pit cars this will only be sprayed once in a blue moon one pull every now and again and nothing more
 
Power shot is 125 ...cheater system is 175-250...get something adjustable from Zex 50-75-100-etc.
 
Get on the Bottle!!
Also make sure your fuel pump can supply what the kit manufacture suggests. Might also be a good idea to go one step colder than stock on spark plug heat range from the get go.
 
With a 4-speed and a whiplash cam; How is that gonna work during the shifts? I mean IDK, jus asking. IDK, it seems like a recipe for disaster to me.........
I have been a 4-speed street guy since 1970.
 
It'll be just fine as long as you don't lean it out. Even for small systems, a separate fuel system ain't a bad idea. You don't want it pig rich, but "a little" rich won't hurt a thing.
 
AJ/FormS said:
With a 4-speed and a whiplash cam; How is that gonna work during the shifts? I mean IDK, jus asking. IDK, it seems like a recipe for disaster to me.........
I have been a 4-speed street guy since 1970.
Click to expand...
Not sure one bit, thats why im asking here to a crowd much more keen than i am on the topic. I can build another combination i have.several i csn build with different variations this is just the newest one ready to go in its a dirt cheap $600 build
 
I would "guess" that you should be OK up to 150hp. But start lower, and work your way up. I started at 75 hp on my 170cid slant six, and got to 175 on a stock rotating assy, with no problems (needed to tune accordingly). 225 shot was fast, but didn't last. But that would be like about 400 shot on a 318.
 
Having safety stuff built-in is the key...
Low fuel pressure switch... $25 or so?..
Won't let the shot work if fuel pressure isn't up to snuff...
Full throttle switch.. only let's the shot work at full throttle...
Window switch.. $50 or so??... You can set the rpm range the shot can activate...
3000-5500 or whatever...
2° retarded for every 50 is the basic rule.
If you have msd a adjustable start/retard is available...
You can buy a 4 speed shift knob with a momentary switch to activate all this ..
I got at least a half dozen other things if you'd like me to continue...
I was $1500-2k to do it right... And "still" haven't had the opportunity to push the button...:rolleyes:...
What it is NOT is "just throw a bottle in the trunk"... That's how dumb- dumbs have bad outcomes...:eek:...
 
j par said:
Having safety stuff built-in is the key...
Low fuel pressure switch... $25 or so?..
Won't let the shot work if fuel pressure isn't up to snuff...
Full throttle switch.. only let's the shot work at full throttle...
Window switch.. $50 or so??... You can set the rpm range the shot can activate...
3000-5500 or whatever...
2° retarded for every 50 is the basic rule.
If you have msd a adjustable start/retard is available...
You can buy a 4 speed shift knob with a momentary switch to activate all this ..
I got at least a half dozen other things if you'd like me to continue...
I was $1500-2k to do it right... And "still" haven't had the opportunity to push the button...:rolleyes:...
What it is NOT is "just throw a bottle in the trunk"... That's how dumb- dumbs have bad outcomes...:eek:...
Click to expand...
Im open to hearing and learning new things everyday
 
Josh owen said:
Im open to hearing and learning new things everyday
Click to expand...
That's why I did it more for the learning experience than actually using it. The truth is my high compression dual quad stroker known as the slowest stroker on the internet... You know because everyone out here has such a fast car LOL... Anyways it was a great learning process...
For instance all of your kits are about 60% of what you really need.... 98% or more of the ones I've seen didn't have anything for the fuel side except for the fuel solenoid. None of them had Purge kits which are absolutely necessary... None of them had most of the stuff that I've already mentioned... I don't think I seen one that had a heat blanket for the bottle.. which has to be kept at 93° and that's another $250 for the blanket... And another wiring joyful day LOL.. I know some have talked about tuning your operation for ambient temperature but who knows what that's going to be...
If you're like me and want to mount it behind the passenger seat so you can just reach over and turn it on you're going to need a blowdown to if it over pressurizes and blows the safety cap the nitrous will exit outside the cab... You don't want your car filling up with nitrous LOL.. nitrous is non-flammable so the whole fast and the furious exploding car scene is quite the joke...
Of course you'll need a pressure gauge at the tank...
And don't forget the blue or red light to illuminate your nitrous Purge cloud! LOL...
IMG_20200616_180914.jpg
 
I would look up a man named Mike thermos.. he started a company called nitrous supply and he's an old-timer from the beginning of nitrous and still hopefully available on the phone if asked for... You can tell him what you're doing and have an old-timer give you some pointers instead of you know the Internet lol...
 
A guy can generally pick out the ones who know a thing or two vs the ones that are hear say keyboard warriors so i take everything read with a grain of salt but it is good for at least gathering information to sort out when I'm pondering new adventures. Im sure for the very limited amount i would ever even use it, its a colossal waste of money but never know when you'll need that button lol. Bottle would be mounted in the trunk of course as it will be a street car far more than it will ever see the track. This car has the 3 speed with O/D so i was more less thinking it would help over come that big 3-4 drop and one could spray it through. I do have 3.55 gears so that may help some but still working on body and paint so i have more than enough time to change my mind several hundred times!
 
In FL having a fully hooked up nitrous system, is illegal. Chek your state laws
I will suggest putting it in the trunk. NHRA rules specify trunk mounted bottle , vented to outside the car.
 
Nitrous, just like anything else you do to increase power is harder on parts. Tired engine or not.
 
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