Factory high stall converter

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mshred

mshred

The Green Manalishi
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Just wondering who has used one, and what it stalled to roughly behind your combo (details of car helpful i.e. weight, gear ratio, power or e/t). I know some people say they are good for up to 2800, but would like to hear real world experience and not people just regurgitating what they heard.

Thanks!
 
mshred said:
Just wondering who has used one, and what it stalled to roughly behind your combo (details of car helpful i.e. weight, gear ratio, power or e/t). I know some people say they are good for up to 2800, but would like to hear real world experience and not people just regurgitating what they heard.

Thanks!
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The factory 904 "high stall" (had the pink hi stall sticker to prove it!!! :D) torque converters I've had all would brake stall to about 2100-2300 behind the small blocks, depending which small block. By brake stall I mean power brake it till the tires were about to spin or push the car through the brakes. I know some of this depends on traction and all.
 
I had a factory big block convertor that brake stalled at 2600.
 
mshred said:
Just wondering who has used one, and what it stalled to roughly behind your combo (details of car helpful i.e. weight, gear ratio, power or e/t). I know some people say they are good for up to 2800, but would like to hear real world experience and not people just regurgitating what they heard.

Thanks!
Click to expand...
The Hemi stall was 2850, plenty of engine torque and power.
 
Factory stalls are all over the place. You’ll have to be specific on the exact converter you have to know where it stalls at.
 
You cannot brake check a converter in any gear but high gear and that requires a manual valve body. High gear puts more load on the converter and will make it stall to its maximum RPM for a given combination. It's all in the Mopar Performance books in black and white.
 
70' 340 Duster....Factory installed converter with stock engine other then a Hemi grind cam and 750 carb, foot braked to 2200. May have flashed a hair more.
 
The stall speed of a c'ter depends on the engine torque. A 440 will stall at a higher rpm than a 340.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Factory stalls are all over the place. You’ll have to be specific on the exact converter you have to know where it stalls at.
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Yes, that I know. I am looking at a 340 converter, as the cam grinder suggested 2500 or more stall speed, and there is one local to me for a decent deal I thought might be worth trying.
RustyRatRod said:
You cannot brake check a converter in any gear but high gear and that requires a manual valve body. High gear puts more load on the converter and will make it stall to its maximum RPM for a given combination. It's all in the Mopar Performance books in black and white.
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I know how to check it, that's not the info I am after...
OldmanRick said:
70' 340 Duster....Factory installed converter with stock engine other then a Hemi grind cam and 750 carb, foot braked to 2200. May have flashed a hair more.
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Do you recall what gear ratio was in the car?
Bewy said:
The stall speed of a c'ter depends on the engine torque. A 440 will stall at a higher rpm than a 340.
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Yes, I am aware...as does weight, gear ratio, etc. Hence why I am asking for a little about the combos, so I can maybe get a rough idea of something possibly similar to what I intend.
 
my 904-2800 was rated for a slanty.
It stalls a lil higher behind my stock 140 psi, 318 but I gotta tell ya, it's just right..
It stalls slightly different with every gear I run it, highest with 2.76s and lowest with 4.30s, but not by much cuz the stock-cam 318 seems to make about the same torque anywhere below 3000, lol. The car wears 295s in the back, with 10 x 2 brakes, 15/16ths WCs, and with zero proportioning; so the brakes can hold anything the 318 can dish out.
But it still flash-stalls a lil higher when the big TQ starts moaning, lol.
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Even the early 340 was never known for it's bottom-end torque, not even when it was rated 10.5 Scr, and I've never had a lo-compression model.
Notta chance would I run less than a 2800 flash stall, in a stock-cammed/stock cylinder pressure 340, on the street.
The less pressure it makes, the more stall I'm gonna run.

The 9/1- 318 made about the same rated torque as did the 10.5 rated 340, except the 318 peaked ~800 rpm sooner. Consequently, taking off with a 340 with a 2400stall, will feel about the same as taking off with the early318 with the same convertor, gear for gear, and pound for pound, assuming no tirespin; with the 318 possibly jumping out, off the line.
Not so with an 11.3Scr, 340-cammed 360, which will explode out of the gate.. car for car. lol . By 2800, I might be shifting already .....
 
318willrun said:
The factory 904 "high stall" (had the pink hi stall sticker to prove it!!! :D) torque converters I've had all would brake stall to about 2100-2300 behind the small blocks, depending which small block. By brake stall I mean power brake it till the tires were about to spin or push the car through the brakes. I know some of this depends on traction and all.
Click to expand...

That has zero relationship to what the converter actually stalls at. So it really isn’t a useful bit of knowledge. Not trying to dog ya..lol
I have had a 5000 stall vert before that was hard to hold the brakes on at around 2500.
Vert I have now flashes 4900 and I can hold it to roughly 3000, but I don’t because there is no benefit to it regards ET or consistency.
 
AJ/FormS said:
my 904-2800 was rated for a slanty.
It stalls a lil higher behind my stock 140 psi, 318 but I gotta tell ya, it's just right..
It stalls slightly different with every gear I run it, highest with 2.76s and lowest with 4.30s, but not by much cuz the stock-cam 318 seems to make about the same torque anywhere below 3000, lol. The car wears 295s in the back, with 10 x 2 brakes, 15/16ths WCs, and with zero proportioning; so the brakes can hold anything the 318 can dish out.
But it still flash-stalls a lil higher when the big TQ starts moaning, lol.
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Even the early 340 was never known for it's bottom-end torque, not even when it was rated 10.5 Scr, and I've never had a lo-compression model.
Notta chance would I run less than a 2800 flash stall, in a stock-cammed/stock cylinder pressure 340, on the street.
The less pressure it makes, the more stall I'm gonna run.

The 9/1- 318 made about the same rated torque as did the 10.5 rated 340, except the 318 peaked ~800 rpm sooner. Consequently, taking off with a 340 with a 2400stall, will feel about the same as taking off with the early318 with the same convertor, gear for gear, and pound for pound, assuming no tirespin; with the 318 possibly jumping out, off the line.
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Thats just true aj

My 68 dart 270 as purchased 318-2 barrel 727 8 3/4 3.23s rebuilt stock motor except 1 5/8 hooker headers 2.5 exhaust
vs

My 68 gts all stock 80k miles 340 727 8 3/4 3.23s

The gts would have sucked the paint off the 318 2 barrel even with headers
Even after the next upgrade of intake and 600 holley on the 318 much closer but not as good

I raced them both
 
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The highest rated factory stall convertor was 2850 put behind the Hemi .
 
I have used the stock 340 hi stall 727 converter behind 318, 340, 360, 383, 400 and 440s. The 440s flash stalled to about 27 ish. 318 to about 2350. The others to about 2500. I would say to talk to a converter company and give them all the info about your build. I bet they all come back at about a 3500 stall. The new converters are light years ahead of the old slush boxes. I’ll add that the new converters are way more efficient. U will surely be leaving power on the table with an old hi stall. There is nothing like a good converter to make your project come alive. Kim
 
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I swapped tc with a friend. His steel crank 727 340, for my A12. He wanted tighter for mileage, the 340 was his daily, I wanted more than stock.
His stall went down to around 2000, from 22-2300, mine went from 24-2500 to 2900, behind a stone stock 440 sixpack.
 
mshred said:
Yes, that I know. I am looking at a 340 converter, as the cam grinder suggested 2500 or more stall speed, and there is one local to me for a decent deal I thought might be worth trying.
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If it's going behind a stock-stroke 340, neither (there were 2 factory V8 TC sizes) will stall near 2500. I have a factory 11" 904 TC which is the smaller thus higher stall of the 2 and it barely hit 2200 behind a warmed-up, small-cammed 10.5:1 360. IMO your only option to get 2500+ with a 340 is to go aftermarket. If it's a stroker then it might have the grunt to get there with a stock 11" TC.
 
Many years ago i ran a hemi hi stall 426 hemi stock converter behind a 440 stroked to 535, running a .590 cam and 11/1 compression, ported 906 heads. The tach showed 3600 if you can accept that. The car ran 10.60s at 3400 with that converter, 4:10 gears, 30 inch tall slicks. A converter built stout enough to survive the high torque yet have the same stall charactoristics would be a great street strip converter combined with a big stroker. Come to think of it i have parts for a 581,,,,,,,,,,,
 
33IMP said:
I swapped tc with a friend. His steel crank 727 340, for my A12. He wanted tighter for mileage, the 340 was his daily, I wanted more than stock.
YHis stall went down to around 2000, from 22-2300, mine went from 24-2500 to 2900, behind a stone stock 440 sixpack.
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Your results are what an old mopar performance manual stated for stall speeds of various converters. The 340, 383 and hemi all had a hi stall version of the 10 3/4 stock converter. They were the same, save for bigger flex plat to converter bolt size was bigger on the hemi.
 
OldmanRick said:
Do you recall what gear ratio was in the car?

It was a 3.23...
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The hemi grind cam seriously affected torque down low, causing the loss of almost 400 rpm stall speed. It is tough enough when you run a bit bigger cam in a 440, trying to use a stock converter, but with 100 less cubes to make torque, it REALLY hurts. On the other hand, when you ADD 100 CUBES, like i did, things get interesting and you can get away with a big cam!
 
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