very mild 360 build.

-
clened up nicely
Use whatever cam you want. There's so many recommendations here and some may be right and some not what you want. You know what they say about cam choices, They are like buttholes, everyone has one. :rofl: :rofl:
 
Back in the day when I would get done honing a block, I would always wiped down the bores with a lint free thinner soaked cloth ( cloth baby diapers were perfect). Doing this removed any fine metal shavings from the cross hatch pattern.
 
Back in the day when I would get done honing a block, I would always wiped down the bores with a lint free thinner soaked cloth ( cloth baby diapers were perfect). Doing this removed any fine metal shavings from the cross hatch pattern.

we washed it with soap and water then wiped with wd40 and clean rags until they came out clean.. amazing how much dirt stays in there. it will get wiped down again before assembly.
 
we washed it with soap and water then wiped with wd40 and clean rags until they came out clean.. amazing how much dirt stays in there. it will get wiped down again before assembly.
It sure is, I couldn't believe how much dirt and grime would be on those cloths, if I remember correctly I used 3 cloths per bore. The main thing is to use lint free towels, rags etc, if not those fine particles will stay in the bores. I don't think it's possible to be to clean upon assembly.
 
I've never tried this, but a friend of mine uses dawn dish soap ( liquid ) in his power washer he claimed it gets everything super clean
 
I was leaning towards the Oregon, but just remembered you're using the low gear set so i would go with the MP myself as i believe it would give a little more mid range torque. Just throwing out another opinion.:)
 
I've never tried this, but a friend of mine uses dawn dish soap ( liquid ) in his power washer he claimed it gets everything super clean

we washed it with dawnand rags and still had a ton of stuff come off the rag afterwards. maybe the pressure washer helps but i'd still clean each bore out afterwards..
 
I was leaning towards the Oregon, but just remembered you're using the low gear set so i would go with the MP myself as i believe it would give a little more mid range torque. Just throwing out another opinion.:)

it also has a very good converter in it.
 
we washed it with dawnand rags and still had a ton of stuff come off the rag afterwards. maybe the pressure washer helps but i'd still clean each bore out afterwards..
I believe that you did a excellent job of cleaning up the block, I'm sure that you will get good results from your combination.
 
I have no patience, so I'd go with the cam that is available right now... especially if the differences are minimal. I'm sure either one will be fine....my $.02
 
rings fit, bolt holes all chased. gotta quit early today, daughters first lacrosse game of the year. she wants me to take pics. not off again until monday so we will pickup then.

IMG_20240321_111924.jpg


IMG_20240321_111930.jpg


IMG_20240321_113307.jpg


IMG_20240321_113329.jpg


IMG_20240321_123131.jpg


IMG_20240321_133451.jpg
 
oh man.. yet another cam dilemma. the oregon cam is still a coupe weeks away from even getting shipped. my buddy dave found a mp cam and lifters in his stash (new in the box). he thinks it would be perfect in the motor.. my other budy tom thinks it may be too big and thinks the oregon cam would be better... if i use the mp cam the motor will probably be together and probably running on a run stand next week.. with the oregon cam its still a couple weeks out... i trust both guys very much but not sure what to do with this damn cam now..lol if cam science wasn't so voodoo to me it may be an easier decision..

this is the MP cam: Mopar Performance P4452759AE Mopar Performance Purple Camshaft Kits | Summit Racing
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
this is the oregon cam:
#1522

204/214 @ .050”, 270/280 adv, .420”/.443” lift, 112 sep






.
That MP cam will do nicely... IMHO run it!.
 
The MP cam is close to a 340 cam run it
I’ve always heard and thought of that particular cam as the upgraded 340 cam since it holds close to the stock valve lift but just has increased duration and by good bit. Lift is the only close area that the cam is in. The LSA is a 114 vs 110 and the duration picks up for an extra 13*’s @.050.

IMO, it’s a very good cam from the factory.
 
the melling MTD cam is going to trade torque all the way across the board for HP at the top. it's still a good cam, that's similar to the factory 340 piece.

personally i'd choose the MP cam. the split pattern will work favorably with the exhaust manifolds and the narrow 110 grind will keep the torque where you want it all thru the midrange. it's a typical RV style grind that'll make a butt load of torque and not be all peak power. i think it would compliment the direction of the build.
 
I’ve always heard and thought of that particular cam as the upgraded 340 cam since it holds close to the stock valve lift but just has increased duration and by good bit. Lift is the only close area that the cam is in. The LSA is a 114 vs 110 and the duration picks up for an extra 13*’s @.050.

IMO, it’s a very good cam from the factory.
I needed a new motor and got a 340 from a wrecked car with low miles. Stuck one in, all power stuff on it. Power brakes, steering, A/C auto with stock 340 Dayco converter, in 727 with 323 gears ran very well.
And I agree was one step up from stock 340.
I had a weekend place in South Miss. And lived in New Orleans area. Car ran fine. The 276 were swapped at times when used it 100 percent just to travel back and forth there.
 
I clicked on the link for the MP cam and it said not available, I checked another place and it said the same thing. Is this cam no longer available?
 
I clicked on the link for the MP cam and it said not available, I checked another place and it said the same thing. Is this cam no longer available?

yea mp cams are no longer available. mopar performance basically said screw the old stuff and is all modern hemi now.
 
my buddy dave called and asked if it was ok to install the crank. while I'd have liked to have done it i know he is into the build and its taking up room in his garage. crank is in and he says everything looks great. 2 thousands clearance on the mains he says.

steering box and shocks showed up today jamie said. thanks @GMachineDartGT for getting the stuff to me so fast, can't wait to get home and check that box out. dave has a 360 built sitting on a duster kframe that he asked if he could see if the new box will fit with the headers and all. if it fits he may buy one instead of going manual steering. I'll take that over monday and maybe we will mess with that some too
 
-
Back
Top