Chattering starter relay

mayhem · Jul 21, 2026

I'm a noob at electronics (I can chase grounds) so I'm here to learn at the feet of masters. I was contacted by a young man who used to play baseball for me. He has a '64 Imperial 413/AT he got from an older gentleman who let the car sit for several years. Not sure when he acquired the car but about a year ago he and his father replaced a failed starter. The car ran well enough until a week or so ago. Now when he tries to start the car, he gets a clicking or chattering sound from the starter relay (I confirmed it is the box on the inner fender and not the starter solenoid) and the engine doesn't turn over. I researched it here and learned there may be deteriorated/corroded wiring. I've agreed to help him this weekend (the car is in dad's driveway & I'm sure the parents would like it gone). What should I be looking for? What is the most likely cause? I'm wondering if, in doing the starter work, they may have wiggled the wrong wire and hastened the failure of another wire/connection? Could it be as simple as replacing the starter relay?

nm9stheham · Jul 21, 2026

It is indeed could be a bad wiring and/or connections. The first thing to do is just clean the battery terminals and connections, then inspect all the connections to the starter relay and to the starter.

Also before starting, use a voltmeter to check the battery voltage It should be around 12.5-12.6 volts for a decently charged battery. This might simply be a case of a discharged or bad battery, which will cause these symptoms.

Once running, check the voltage at the battery terminals with the engine revved to around 1500-2000 rpm. The voltage should be up in the high 13 volt range, indicating that the alternator is working adequately and keeping the battery charged.

mayhem · Jul 21, 2026

nm9stheham said:
It is indeed could be a bad wiring and/or connections. The first thing to do is just clean the battery terminals and connections, then inspect all the connections to the starter relay and to the starter.

Also before starting, use a voltmeter to check the battery voltage It should be around 12.5-12.6 volts for a decently charged battery. This might simply be a case of a discharged or bad battery, which will cause these symptoms.

Once running, check the voltage at the battery terminals with the engine revved to around 1500-2000 rpm. The voltage should be up in the high 13 volt range, indicating that the alternator is working adequately and keeping the battery charged.

Exactly what I was looking for! Thanks. Mopar to ya!

Dart Frog · Jul 21, 2026

Have you tried jumping the vehicle the reason I suggest this if you add another power source to the battery and the problem resolves itself you can pretty much bet it's the battery if the clicking persists then you have another problem. Starter relays are fairly inexpensive and available. But cleaning battery the terminals and checking the connection should be your first move.
.

Bewy · Jul 22, 2026

I thought the genuine starter relay was on the f'wall, not the inner fender??

Dave999 · Jul 22, 2026

my relay is on the inner fender just behind the battery tray But mine is a 1970s A body car

check ground strap between motor and motor mount chassis side

check ground strap from battery negative to chassis

check the fat cable that bolts to the starter relay

check the thin wire from the ignition switch that triggers the relay
check the bulkhead connector through which that wire will probably pass.

last but not least it could be a worn ignition switch... i.e the contacts in START are worn or corroded as the main wiper contact only goes there when the car is started

if you can get the connector off the back of the switch can you hot wire it? or do you get same chatter? that would remove switch problems from the equation

that connector probably has 4 wires one is HOT 12 Volt short it in turn to the other connectors
one will power accessories
one will appear to do nothing...that is the RUN position you just powered up your coil
one will cause the starter to run. if no chattering... switch fault

buy a can of deoxit to clean and lube it

not familiar at all with your car but if it follows the usual mopar route there are two starter relays one for manual trans cars and one for auto trans cars
the auto trans one has an extra connector which i presume is for a neutral safety switch..mine is manual.

Dave

mayhem · Jul 22, 2026

Bewy said:
I thought the genuine starter relay was on the f'wall, not the inner fender??

I can't say. I haven't looked at the car yet to know if things are in their right place and what is causing the symptoms he describes.

mayhem · Jul 22, 2026

Dave999 said:
my relay is on the inner fender just behind the battery tray But mine is a 1970s A body car

check ground strap between motor and motor mount chassis side

check ground strap from battery negative to chassis

check the fat cable that bolts to the starter relay

check the thin wire from the ignition switch that triggers the relay
check the bulkhead connector through which that wire will probably pass.

last but not least it could be a worn ignition switch... i.e the contacts in START are worn or corroded as the main wiper contact only goes there when the car is started

if you can get the connector off the back of the switch can you hot wire it? or do you get same chatter? that would remove switch problems from the equation

that connector probably has 4 wires one is HOT 12 Volt short it in turn to the other connectors
one will power accessories
one will appear to do nothing...that is the RUN position you just powered up your coil
one will cause the starter to run. if no chattering... switch fault

buy a can of deoxit to clean and lube it

not familiar at all with your car but if it follows the usual mopar route there are two starter relays one for manual trans cars and one for auto trans cars
the auto trans one has an extra connector which i presume is for a neutral safety switch..mine is manual.

Dave

I've added all these to the list of things to check. I'm going to start with the easiest/simplest one - the battery & its connections. And yes, I'll take along some dielectric grease to insure good connections at the places I unplug things. I'm hoping it is something simple and I won't spend my entire Saturday under the hood of this guy's car. We'll see what happens.

RustyRatRod · Jul 22, 2026

I would put a good slow charge on the battery FIRST, then test the battery to assure it is good. If the battery is bad, that can certainly cause your issue. I agree with all of the other mentioned causes as well. The battery is where I would START since that would be the easiest repair.

nm9stheham · Jul 22, 2026

Probably does not need saying but dielectric grease is an insulator, not a conductor. It helps keep out moisture and dirt, etc., in connectors/connections. It's a good practice to use it but realize what it is for; it does not make metal surfaces conduct better or remove oxide/corrosion. Toss some fine sandpaper or scotchbrite in the box too....

mayhem · Jul 23, 2026

nm9stheham said:
Probably does not need saying but dielectric grease is an insulator, not a conductor. It helps keep out moisture and dirt, etc., in connectors/connections. It's a good practice to use it but realize what it is for; it does not make metal surfaces conduct better or remove oxide/corrosion. Toss some fine sandpaper or scotchbrite in the box too....

Yes, sorry, I misspoke.

George Jets · Jul 23, 2026

New Dakota high torque mini starter solves a lot of problems.

Spins faster, doesn't rob voltage from the ignition, and much lighter to handle.

Starts like it has fuel injection.

E-bay item number:

389468974882

.

mayhem · Jul 23, 2026

George Jets said:
New Dakota high torque mini starter solves a lot of problems.

Spins faster, doesn't rob voltage from the ignition, and much lighter to handle.

Starts like it has fuel injection.

View attachment 1716568427

E-bay item number:

389468974882

.

If we determine the young man needs a new starter, I'll be happy to pass this info along. Thanks.

Chattering starter relay

mayhem

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