Question about Dodge mini-starter installation in small block Plymouth

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Bob67Barracuda

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I just replaced the starter in a 1967 Barracuda with a '71 340 motor. Wasn't easy because I had to drop the driver side header and that was a real PITA.

Car started great for a week. Then the ol' click on key turn returned. After another round of diagnosing, I found that the problem seems to be the positive battery connections to the starter -- smaller solenoid cable and the larger main motor cable.

Both connections are in very tight spot, and the fatter cable to the motor itself is up against the block. That doesn't seem sustainable.

My question then is this: For those of you who have gone the mini-starter route, did you use the plastic/metal post extender that came with the new starter?. My previous starter was a mini-starter, and the extender was in place when I dropped it (noting here that the 340 went in like 5 years ago, so my mechanic then was able to put the starter in while things were apart).

The new starter is almost exactly the same size as the old one. So I figured I'd leave the extender in place.

But now I'm wondering if I should have taken that thing off to give myself more room for the cables.

Any input?

I know I might need to drop that header again... wanting advice first.

Old starter with extender...

IMG_6443.jpg


IMG_6442.jpg
 
I found this thread about sourcing a real rebuilt Denso mini starter. I didn't do that, maybe should have. I went with a Duralast starter from O'Reilly. The thread talks about various adapter and insulator parts. Do I need these? Or can I just skip the adapter altogether and do my best to keep the cables away from the block?

I need to get it right this time because dropping that header is a serious chore.

mini starter solenoid stud relocation
 
For those of you who have gone the mini-starter route, did you use the plastic/metal post extender that came with the new starter?.

But now I'm wondering if I should have taken that thing off to give myself more room for the cables.

I for one never use the adapter But that's just me.
They always were more of a hassle than help.
I remove it whether I'm working on a big block or a small block.
 
I used a Dakota starter in my RB install into my 69 barracuda. I cut the large post down to only having one thread showing through the connected cable. I then used a dust cap over the stud and hit it with a small dab of ultra black. I install the starter with the cables connected. Just an added protection from the 1/4" gap to the block.

mini starter.jpg
 
I use mini starters in all my cars. I've never needed the adapter. I can only assume it's there in the event that you "need" to use it to relocate the cables. But if you don't need it, don't use it.
 
I have used them on every mopar I’ve had since 1990, I bought a new one from my Dodge dealer for the Plymouth and a used one for the shop truck after I couldn’t get a decent drive clutch for the original one and that’s all I’ve used since. I believe on my shop truck, a 77 D100 360 I use the starter with the extension because it helped with the wiring but I’m not sure that was 35 years ago, but I know that I’ve used it once.
 

Great info, everyone. Thanks! I tugged on the main cable to the starter and got it to go. Not counting on this to last, so I used this opportunity to turn the car around in the garage for more room and better light. Not looking forward to battling those header bolts again, but I'm sure this second round will go better because I learned my moves the first time around. Tools are marshaled. So chalking this one up to live and learn.
 
Where is the grd cable bolted to on the engine? Since this problem has happened with two starters, I would check the connection.
 
I used a Dakota starter in my RB install into my 69 barracuda. I cut the large post down to only having one thread showing through the connected cable. I then used a dust cap over the stud and hit it with a small dab of ultra black. I install the starter with the cables connected. Just an added protection from the 1/4" gap to the block.

View attachment 1716417825
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thumbnail_IMG_4950.jpg
thumbnail_IMG_4951.jpg
thumbnail_IMG_4949.jpg
Try this, I have one
 
I just replaced the starter in a 1967 Barracuda with a '71 340 motor. Wasn't easy because I had to drop the driver side header and that was a real PITA.

Car started great for a week. Then the ol' click on key turn returned. After another round of diagnosing, I found that the problem seems to be the positive battery connections to the starter -- smaller solenoid cable and the larger main motor cable.

Both connections are in very tight spot, and the fatter cable to the motor itself is up against the block. That doesn't seem sustainable.

My question then is this: For those of you who have gone the mini-starter route, did you use the plastic/metal post extender that came with the new starter?. My previous starter was a mini-starter, and the extender was in place when I dropped it (noting here that the 340 went in like 5 years ago, so my mechanic then was able to put the starter in while things were apart).

The new starter is almost exactly the same size as the old one. So I figured I'd leave the extender in place.

But now I'm wondering if I should have taken that thing off to give myself more room for the cables.

Any input?

I know I might need to drop that header again... wanting advice first.

Old starter with extender...

View attachment 1716417639 This is the ticket at least for me, I bought one

View attachment 1716417640
thumbnail_IMG_4948.jpg
thumbnail_IMG_4949.jpg
thumbnail_IMG_4951.jpg
thumbnail_IMG_4950.jpg
 
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