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I don’t know the exact alignment specs but they are somewhere in the range of Toe in - 1/8 Camber - negative 1 Caster - positive 5 I don’t know the method used setting the strut bars. My plan is to find out how to set strut bars, double check alignment and check bumpsteer again.

Last season I found a crack in lca at pivot shaft. I repaired, welded k frame and new lca bushings. I’ve had the cap uppers for over ten years and 20,000 miles, so far so good but yes, plan is to change to hotchkiss. I didn’t do the alignment/ setting of the strut rods, I had a shop do...

Pretty much everything. Stock k member, tubular uppers ( cap ), boxed lowers, firm feel box, 11/16 tie rods, hotchkiss strut rods. Stock spindles. I have a set of hotchkiss uppers I’m going to install eventually but I don’t think they will change bump steer without their bumpsteer kit.

And FYI. the droop measurements are very similar to compression

I can’t answer that at the moment. I will check tomorrow though. It’s crazy, My toe changes enough that you can see it when you put a straight edge on the rotor. It’s toed in at full compression and toed out at full droop. And the longacre gauge confirms that.

I bought a longacre gauge and tried it out today. I’m either doing something wrong or I have an issue. Here’s my findings. Seems pretty basic but maybe I’m buggered up. - Passenger - Compression. .5” .055. 1”. .090...

I’m curious if the 22” rads keep up in stop and go traffic and ac on ? I currently have a 26” rad but 22” opening ( that’s what the car came with), works great but I need a new rad and would like to go to a 22”. Cutting the rad support is not an option.

Robert hit the nail on the head. I actually had about 3” of water on the floor when I crossed a river last summer, I had to pull my carpet out to get everything dry. Roccodart, I’ve read about por 15 and actually have a tin of brush on and would love to use it but the surface rust I’m talking...

I have a Geo tracker that is in excellent shape and I wouid like to keep it that way. I want to paint underneath the carpet, there’s some light surface rust and that’s it. I wouid like to undercoat to help with the cab noise but will this actually seal and not allow water to get trapped? I’ve...

Luxury Liner Pro - Mass Loaded Vinyl + Closed Cell Foam - 1 sheet 24"x54" (9sqFt) Anyone ever use something like this?

I’m starting my swap, I’m looking into tti headers. The only set they have that will work with stock k member and air conditioning say that a borgeson box is required but they don’t specify If the borgeson box is only required for a bodies or e bodies as well. Can any e body swappers chime in...

Well I’m starting my swap, I picked up my motor today. I have a few questions to start with. -I’m getting mixed reports on the oil filter with stock k member, can anyone tell me if the stock filter works or do I need the 45 adapter? - what kind of heater hoses to use ( with 90’s )? - is there...

Without looking it up it roughly 250/240, 550 lift.

I don’t have a vin number and motor is 4 hrs away from me. As far as year goes im not sure on that either. I could find out though.

Ok, I’m not to far off then. I was thinking if I got $4000 cdn ( $3000 us). Then I would be happy

Honestly I caught the gas right away but was scared to run it just in case. The lifters were noisy from day one and the thing burnt a bit of oil from day one. Looks like the place that originally built the thing were not as hi quality as they claimed to be and that all I want to say. Sad part...

im thinking about selling my la stuff and going genIII. I’m curious of what you guys think my stuff would be worth. All parts are i great condition except the block, I had gas get into the oil last fall. Here’s a rough idea on what I have. 340 block(20 over), needs hone and lifter bores bushed...

So leaving the tv linkage tied back won’t hurt anything ?

I understand the importance of a tv ( kick down) system but i always manually shift because it always seems to short shift in drive. So my question, do I still need the tv hooked up if always manually shifting ? I think the shift kit claims to turn the valve body into somewhat of a manual valve...

Yeah, I’m really leaning towards the 6.1 because of those heads

Yes. There is a low mile 6.4 for sale. It would end up being similar in price by the time I got the 6.4 worked on but the 6.1 is all forged and I’ve heard those heads are crazy good. The guy with the 6.1 claims 500hp to the wheels, I can’t seem to find any dyno numbers or time slips with...

This is the info I have, looking at buying this or buying a stock 6.4 and doing some head work but the 6.1 would be an easier swap

im thinking about a swap. found a built 6.1 but wondering how it woukd compare with a 6.4 with ported stock heads ?

I have been leaning towards car weight, and that may be a better direction. Power doesn't help you stop.. lol. Another reason I went from ez efi to Fitech is for the power adder feature. I am definitely going to get some more port work, 1.6 rockers and go from there. I talked with my...

Ah, no prob Ez efi, and now Fitech ( not enough vacuum to run ez efi ) Edelbrock rpm Lunati voodoo, hydraulic roller. 252/243 @ 50, 560 lift, 110 lsa Tti step headers. 1-5/8" to 1-3/4. 3" collector 518 od Car has 2.5" exhaust. Considering 3" but very reluctant to do so. Maybe I'm...

yeah, I know that would be the easiest way to go faster but with the highway miles I put on I want to stay with the stall I have, as far as cam, i don't want to go with anything that would have worse street manners, this one is ok. So that is why I'm thinking about a better head. Am I...

518, 2800 stall, 3.91 rear, 26" tire I've been talking to ramm, waiting on his latest results on eddies.

Canada

There's been a bit of work done. Flow 267 @ 600.

Ok, I have a 408 with eddies. Cam is something like 250/240 with 550 lift. Put my 3800 lb car 12.1 in the 1/4. I would like to see my car in the 11.6 ish with The same or preferably better street manners is currently has. the engine builder I'm dealing with is really trying to talk me into...