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Your car is po'd for putting GM parts in it. And it's letting you know. Check to see if rotor is centered in the pads, greased the caliper pins?? Spray anti squeel might not be enough. Semi metallic pads or organics?

What type of calipers? If they are GM type sometimes you need to shim or anti squeel the pads. Especially the outside pad. I usually put a dollop of high temp silicone where the pad rests on the caliper.

some of the valves have a pin that needs to be pulled to reset the safeties and light switch

Don't forget the difference in bolt pattern. 5x4 1/2

What are they doing? Or not doing? The system is not that complicated. It's something that's probably simple.

Well good luck on the last stuff. Regardless I'll see you out there. I'll be there with my wagon.

Congrats Sharpie!!! You must of felt like a outcast going to Davis and having an old car. What your describing sounds correct as far as the pads go. You can call to discuss them. You thrashin to get your car ready for this Saturday?

Another place to check is the local library. Sometimes they have the factory repair manuals that you can copy the pages out of, they won't check them out here as they can't be replaced.

they should touch unless you have pad retractors put in to reduce drag. Jack up the front wheels and see how hard it is to spin them, same with the back. The rears are auto adjusting if they are still drum. If there is heavy drag on all four then most likely your master is partially engaged.

It's possible that even with the brake pedal all the way back, and the master mounted that the brake rod is to long and applying pressure, as it's being squeezed between the piston and the pedal.

Did you use a adjustable brake rod between the master and brake pedal? It's possible that your brake rod is a little to long and not letting the master fully return.

It is a very common brake rotor. It fit's alot more than just your dart. Wouldn't make sense for MaMopar to make a rotor for just one model of vehicle that didn't cost alot to begin with. Keeps production costs down. It will probably be around $40 each.

As long as yours still has the smaller upper balljoint and lower it should just be a straight over swap. Shouldn't be difficult at all.

See it's all in the angle of the dangle!

Is the guide plate all the way flush with the shoe? If it's in there cockeyed it can let the cable pop out when the auto adjuster tries to work.

If it's a new one it might be the wrong one. I would pull the other side off and compare them side by side.

I'm looking at getting this setup. Stock rotors with better calipers.

I don't like the pieced together kits they have, or scarebirds, and ssbc. They are cheaper at first but there is a reason. GM calipers, rotors from whatever newer car "replacements will probably need special machine work to make them match" i.e. centering hole enlargement etc.. special...

It's possible the pivot point of the pedal is in a different spot for more leverage. Which in turn might bring the pedal up farther. I'd measure the length of the other pedal and location of the holes, as in compare the two pedal arms.

Same chart that I have in my fav mopar book.

Grab the rotors and brackets. As far as backing plates I don't know. The aspen should have the 8 1/4, but I'll have to check for the width. I have one from a volare in my 64 but it's a inch wider per side than my original.

I have the complete front end kit installed from P-S-T. Love it, I upgraded to the polygraphite and still no squeeks after 3+ years. Tightend up the front end of the car great.

I have been there to. Trying to yank, rip, twist, and heat the end. But someone else suggested to unbolt the master from the firewall and place a piece of 2x4 between the master and firewall and yank back on the pedal to disconnect the rod. Sounds quite workable to me.

If the belt broke, then that's on par for honda work. Unfortunately they design them to bend and break stuff if the rubber band breaks. Sometimes as far as to poke a hole in a piston or score the cylinder. But if the belt didn't break then I couldn't see any reason unless there were other...

They all can run their own prices but there is a built in negotiator. O and don't forget. Always Always Always ask for your old part's back. If they don't show you or give them to you don't pay for new ones.

Do you belong to AAA? If so they have a list of backed and inspected repair shops that they approve. This way if you have a problem with them they will work thru the dispute and make the best of it. And they follow up on the stuff to. For that price of the rear you could swap to rear disc.

The rod is retained by a rubber ring that fits into a slot inside the piston. It can be pulled apart but is a monkeyfrrr. I'd run an adjustable rod, but they come with new non adjustable ones sometimes depending on what manufacturer/reman etc, or rubber rings.

They call it a micro lock. It's a valve body with a control that you either pull or flip to the side after pumping the brake pedal once or twice to build pressure. When the valve is set it holds the brake pressure like your holding the pedal. You can get a single axle micro lock easier than a...

If it's a nine with factory calipers it should have the levers for the parking brake. Are you looking for the parking brake assembly for the car chassis? Or the components for the rear? I would suggest not using a electric line loc for parking. You can plumb in a manual line lock that would...

I'm running manual brakes with disc up front with my wagon. The problem is most likely when they changed over from the power brakes they kept the same sized master. In that case the pedal feel will be huge. The piston size is to big, you need the smaller size piston. Best to look at what...