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Yes you're right...toed out, not in

How long is the front segment?

Negative camber or toe in

Tap outward on the ears some may help

The bucket seat uses the same bench seat piece that's why there's 2 different holes in it

I think it will limit travel

I seperate the outer tie rod from the ball joint first...just makes things easier and toe is last thing to set anyway

Mark them left and right or they wont know how to put the bushings in or take them to whoever will be doing the alignment

Yes big bolt track width is wider

1 long one may be enough. you will have to experiment

Add a leaf

Yes leave them in

I think there is enough room to just screw them in evenly till they're short enough

I always switch the 1 bolt for header clearance

I have never heard of mounts that go from big block to small block

front wheels need to be off the ground

Absolutely

7/16 studs=small bolt 1/2 studs=big bolt

looks like the low profile would be like running the top hole on the standard ones

Is that the dr diff kit?

The mopar kit will put the leafs in a bind because the front is 1/2" and the rear is 9/16. Not a problem with rubber bushings but the aluminum front bushings wont work. The dr diff set up moves them 1/2 evenly and will not have that problem. That being said, I have the mopar kit on my 69 dart...

It's correct. Just looked at mine...

it's "eh"

I have the 3" arp on my dart...think I got them at a speed shop

yes

there is a 9'' kit and a 10'' kit

the right mount is quite a bit closer to the frame rail on a 6

I think you need the 73 up steering box to use the 73 pitman arm but I might be wrong. Idler arm and center link obviously. Tie rod ends are different numbers but I think you can use either...adjustment sleeves might be longer

cal trac if a split mono will do

ka ka part...lol