Search results for query: *

I thought that the main reason for changing to a aluminum drum was safety, less chance of a explosion.

I had a 318 in my dad's 74 Dart Sport, with a Edelbrock Proformer intake and a Thermoquad carb. I was tuning, and ended up with the largest jets and the smallest metering rods in the carb. The car continued to improve but I thought that a 318 shouldn't need that much fuel. I think that the...

My old 72 Duster was getting very poor fuel mileage, I was checking over the engine, and checking the ignition timing. With the engine running, I noticed that the crimp around the stock fuel pump was leaking. But I didn't see a leak with the engine shut off.

The bottom of the pistons need to be milled too, they will hit the counterweights of the crank.

My opinion is that it depends on what fuel you are using. I was told years ago, unleaded fuel needs more temperature, that is one of the reasons newer cars run hotter. If it was me, the temperatures you posted seem fine to me, as long as it is running fine and the spark plugs look good, I would...

I am not a expert, but I would recommend engine limiters with the engine plate, have to get everything assembled at normal weight. Adjust the ride height and then alignment. I do a race alignment, 0 camber, 0 toe and as much positive caster as I can get, doing the alignment at 2" raised from...

I got a Griner trans brake valve body years ago, it came with instructions on plugging the vent in the front pump, and relocating the vent in the case at the rear. The valve body came with a push in plastic vent. So I have done the modification on a few 904's, I imagine a 727 would be very...

My opinion, is that I would not chance the converter hub in a rebuilt transmission. A friend of mine just went through this, had a leak at the front of the transmission so he removed it. The hub of the converter was scored, and the front pump bushing was bad. He sent the converter out to the...

Depends on who techs the car, NHRA rule is the switch has to be on the positive side of the battery, and has to push off. So I feel that the label is redundant. There are a lot of cars that go through tech that are not legal. Not sure if the rule now, but it used to have to be on the right side...

I installed mine just like rmchrgr did, I didn't want any holes though the body or taillights either

Thanks, it has the correct Mark Williams spool. Trying to replace the existing gears with a Pro set of gears. The car is heavier than expected, and trying to keep breakage to a minimum

Ok, glad you got it

Is it for a A body? I might have one

I might have one, came from a 74 Dart Sport that I put a 8 3/4 rear in. I would have to measure, and I think that it is a small u joint

Here is a picture of one of my collectors, I still have to modify to fit. 1 7/8" primaries, fitting that was welded in is the O2 sensor, came with a tube to install the Pan Evac system laying on the left, a plug and the fitting I had to weld on the right

I am looking for a good set of 4.88 Pro Gears for a Dana 60. Thanks

If it is a stock gear set, it is either 1.76 or 1.83, like previously mentioned. If it was me, I would have the trans checked over and a 1.80 straight cut gear set installed. Then you know exactly what is in the trans, and how similar it is to the other trans.

I got a set of collectors, might have been Dynatec, that had fittings welded in that were a O2 sensor thread. They cam with a fitting that threaded into the bung and adapted to pipe thread for use with the pan evac system. But due to clearance issues, I couldn't use the fittings in that...

I have gotten some Mopar Performance Main Caps from a member here, Rocket. I think that they are caps for the R Blocks, and are 4 bolt. They are not billet, but seem to be a better casting. Rocket had pictures of the extra bolt holes being milled off for 2 bolt use.

There are a few different manufacturers of flexplates, I have used JW, who makes the Ultrabell, and ATI. The adapter should come with the flexplates, to support the hub of the converter. You will need the flexplate to crank bolts, and flexplate to converter bolts. And might need spacers to make...

In the AMX I race, I check the kickdown band adjustment every 25 runs. It has a A&A aluminum drum.

A bunch of my friends use the Altronics, with a computer program for et prediction. And they have a lot of success with it.

I have seen them broke before, on a freshen up on my dad's 904 in his street/strip Dart Sport. I just cleaned and welded. The factory welds are not that good. But make sure all the planetary gears and pins are ok. There is a lot of casting flash in the trans, same as engine blocks. I clean it up .

I think that you want about .075 clearance between the bottom of the side gear and the housing. I also add 727 front drum springs inside the other springs.

I have used a vibration damper puller to remove the yoke from the pinion. Some of the aftermarket gears have a coating on the pinion that makes the bearings and yoke harder to install and remove.

Speed Pro used to make a set of plasma moly rings .030 file fit for those pistons. I have not bought any for years.

My buddy had a ATI damper on his Small block in his Plymouth Arrow with the Chevy bolt pattern. His engine was mounted with a front plate and mid plate. He used a pulley for the small water pump which is close to the damper and mounted the alternator off the engine plate. Seems like the choices...

Usually the smaller grease fittings are 1/4”-28 thread .

I used the PRW 1.6 rockers with the B3 geometry kit on a 372 ci. Inch that I built, with Trick Flow heads and a Comp hydraulic roller cam. The guy I built it for drives it all the time.

I have a few, in south east Pa.