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Bear in mind that REAR stuff can seem like front steering issues, broken spring, eye, shackle, etc etc

By screwing with controls settings as you described, you are sending yourself down the wrong path. First, there are TWO flashers. One for signals, one for hazards. You need to find the hazard flasher. It should have power at all times, and you can swap the turn and hazard flashers to...

No need to get so technical. BYPASS the connector. This advice came from Redfish on here, a long time back. At the time, I did not have a 74. Last time I had screwed with such a car was in the mid - late 70's As soon as I saw one, I said, "Geez.............." You don't need it...

Bear in mind there is a LOT of "scratch and dent" damage. One side of one short drawer is ripped clear loose as is the rear "sawdust" corner of the sink base. I can fix them. For the sink, I'll just put a 2x2 in the corners and zip some screws in, and take a good look at the...

Do you have a service manual. The 73 manual, and many others are posted for free at MyMopar.com. Some of them got there because of some of us right here. The 73 is one of those I cannot tell from the photos, even what connector cavity you are looking at. This looks like it "might"...

AH!! OK I took a quick look, there are 3 cabs 30" tall. Looks like I can use one 32W to the left of the kitchen window, and can put the one 45 wide from the right side of the window to the end of the counter. This is looking to work out well. Only downside, is that what will fit...

Bear in mind that "deals" are only "when" they are, and you can't get to choosy about "what." Yesterday a bunch of kitchen stuff was lying there at Habitat for humanity. Also bear in mind there is some scratch damage, they ain't perfect, and in the end, they are STILL GLUED...

Pertronix is not bad, I have one on my old Farmall 100 (updated Super A). But if you are going very far from home, I'd buy an extra one just for spares. The module, and the rotor, are both special parts. If you break down, you won't find them in parts stores.

I would bet the variance---manufacturing tolerance--in the frame is as great as the 'slop.' As long as they can't move once tight, I would say, "made good."

I don't know why that would not work. Bridge circuits are just plain inherently more accurate, assuming the components use are decent quality. They are less liable to supply voltage changes.

Another possibility, and it's happened here on this board more than once, is a deal gets all set up, and then the seller has something, accident, sickness, etc

LOL We had one of those long trains, had been a church bus and I had it 1 or 2 years for my service van. You have to watch weight distribution. It is easy to get too much in the rear, and cause skidding of the front tires in snow or rainy weather. I built the bulkhead between...

Tire, wheel

Look running a vented cap is stupid. You are risking gas over the paint of the quarter. The object in the trunk on the early tanks was a liquid / vapor separator. Probably the easiest way out of your problem is to modify your filler tube to "be like" a 69/ earlier which had...

I'm sorry but if you do not do a high voltage leakage check you are spinning your wheels. I have found FAR more bad caps that were actually leaky rather than low or high in value, substantially. The old outboards I mess with, I bet more than 75% of the caps get garbaged. I...

Maybe a spacer and longer studs? The stang wheels are not all the same. I believe there are at least three different once, by that I mean offset, etc, all being so called "Bullitt" style

^^Unfortunately that is far from correct. I've gotten into many arguments about this, but if the cap/ condenser is bad or missing, the car will normally not start. So while, yes, it does keep the points from burning, it has to be in good working condition just to allow the vehicle to...

I feel there is not only far to much censorship on this board, it is off the rails. I've seen MANY threads where some guy wanted info on what something might be worth, and was demanded that "he start a wanted thread." ****!!!!! I've wondered A LOT about pricing, especially in...

Quite some time ago, I remember vaguely that some guys on this board had a VERY negative opinion about QA-1

"Th cops:" About your front plate..............

Forget the starter relay. If the starter works, the relay is OK As Dana said, measure coil voltage. IF THE reading is full battery with key in "run" this means that either points are open (engine may have "landed" in that spot, or if you check under the cap and they are closed, and or...

Sorry I breezed right past the year. I haven't checked but it is likely that another relay in the box is interchangeable. There are some different configurations. A quick swap would at least indicate that the relay is or is not at fault. I no longer have my paper truck manuals...

Any car that I know of that is equipped with hazards has two flashers. 70 was the first year of the locking column, and I BELIEVE the first year where the hazard switch was integrated with the turn switch. Before, the hazard was a toggle on the dash, and before factory, you could buy...

I would be VERY tempted to drill through one and stick a BRASS 6 or 8-32 screw and lock nut in there

It is difficult to check a neutral switch per se. They push in some distance for neutral and push in a different distance for backup lights. Some guys are finding that modern replacements "are not the same" and require fiddling with gasket thickness to get them right. One old trick is...

The starter relay/ neutral switch is a simple circuit The starter relay has 4 terminals for an automatic, or stick 70 and later except some trucks which do not have a clutch switch. The big "stud" is one of the contacts, hooked direct to the battery, and also used as a junction...

Are you sure that K is safe?

Ask Edelbrock?

You have a trailer? I don't think you are 50 miles from OldManMopar, Steve Kiss. On the other hand, there has GOT to be a fair number of car wiring or Mopar guys in that area.