No longer charging found broken wiring
- Thread starter TRWRacing
- Start date
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WHAT ARE YOU WORKING ON?
WHAT HAS BEEN DONE TO THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM (in the past or latly)
if you want to get a harness. There is an " engine forward harness" some are modified for electronic ignition and / or electronic voltage regulator.
BUT you best diagnose what is the cause of the bad wire or you might just melt down a new harness just plugging it in.
Lastly there is too much other stuff in the way in your photo to really hazard a guess as to what the broken wire goes to
Mymopar.com has factory service manuals and wiring diagrams
classiccarwiring.com sells laminated full color diagrams
WHAT HAS BEEN DONE TO THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM (in the past or latly)
if you want to get a harness. There is an " engine forward harness" some are modified for electronic ignition and / or electronic voltage regulator.
BUT you best diagnose what is the cause of the bad wire or you might just melt down a new harness just plugging it in.
Lastly there is too much other stuff in the way in your photo to really hazard a guess as to what the broken wire goes to
Mymopar.com has factory service manuals and wiring diagrams
classiccarwiring.com sells laminated full color diagrams
Do you have a service manual. The 73 manual, and many others are posted for free at MyMopar.com. Some of them got there because of some of us right here. The 73 is one of those
I cannot tell from the photos, even what connector cavity you are looking at. This looks like it "might" be the inline harness connector between part of the engine harness and part of the bulkhead section of the harness. If so, you need to bet busy and bypass it. Cut back to undamaged wire, use additional wire if necessary, and splice each wire.
You don't need that connector, according to Redfish. It was for convenience of the assembly line folks. They could put part of the harness on the engine, and drop the engine in and just plug it right in.
From manual, page 8-167 and 8-164
On the 8 pin "dash to engine" connector R6-12BK is the output / charge line of the alternator, and goes from the alternator to the bulkhead connector, and to the ammeter. You can see it there cavity "P" of the bulkhead connector
I cannot tell from the photos, even what connector cavity you are looking at. This looks like it "might" be the inline harness connector between part of the engine harness and part of the bulkhead section of the harness. If so, you need to bet busy and bypass it. Cut back to undamaged wire, use additional wire if necessary, and splice each wire.
You don't need that connector, according to Redfish. It was for convenience of the assembly line folks. They could put part of the harness on the engine, and drop the engine in and just plug it right in.
From manual, page 8-167 and 8-164
On the 8 pin "dash to engine" connector R6-12BK is the output / charge line of the alternator, and goes from the alternator to the bulkhead connector, and to the ammeter. You can see it there cavity "P" of the bulkhead connector
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Chrysler recognized this was a problem on the 1973 wiring harness R612BK position 8.
In 1974 the number 8 position was left empty and the black wire going to the alternator had a separate male and female single bullet style connector outside of the main connector.
Soldering the black wires together and using heat shrink tubing was a common repair.
In 1974 the number 8 position was left empty and the black wire going to the alternator had a separate male and female single bullet style connector outside of the main connector.
Soldering the black wires together and using heat shrink tubing was a common repair.
Thanks helpful. I was able to locate the device manual and ordering the engine/front light harness to replace this.
Got a question...
The connectors in the photos look like a bulkhead connecter but it is on the right side of the engine near the coil. Is that stock in 73
The connectors in the photos look like a bulkhead connecter but it is on the right side of the engine near the coil. Is that stock in 73
You're replacing a whole front harness for one broken wire? Will you adopt me?
Kinda don’t like the looks of the broken connector. And sits right on the top of oil cap. Honestly it looks like crap and who installed engine 10 years ago broke it disconnecting it due to age. Should have told me and would have bought and replaced it.
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A fair number of threads with engine connector in the past few months
In these years two connectors.
4spdragtop
Well-Known Member
By the looks of that you better get hands on factory schematics and versed in electrical. Welcome to the mopar rabbit hole....good luck.
It is an H Code 340 car. When I got it, it had a ‘72 340 with bad bearings and rings. Owner gave me the original block as well which froze and cracked. The goal in my retirement years (5 years away) is get the ‘72 340 rebuilt and back in the car. My son is SIU Auto Technology graduate and helps me.
I had never seen this type of connector before. I owned a ‘71 Demon as my first car and my parents had a ‘73 Charger so that’s been some decades ago.
Earlier models had a 1 wire connector of different shape/color with a fusible link inline by the bulkhead. Later models got that round white connector at the same fusible link and more than that 1 location. I don't think they all had a fusible link inline. Just a simple easy way to isolate a system or circuit.
I was told that while those other builders used self powered test equipment placed along their assembly lines, the CDP builders used the vehicles live amp gauge as the indicator as they plugged in various systems/circuits.
Plug something in and amp gauge went wonky, unplug it, flag it and let it move on. Don't stop the line to dianose a bad alternator, whatever. It will be corrected later.
I was told that while those other builders used self powered test equipment placed along their assembly lines, the CDP builders used the vehicles live amp gauge as the indicator as they plugged in various systems/circuits.
Plug something in and amp gauge went wonky, unplug it, flag it and let it move on. Don't stop the line to dianose a bad alternator, whatever. It will be corrected later.
I thiught I was going to see something like this. Mine was still charging though. Even with just 1 strand of wire. It just has to carry a voltage signal and almost no amperage.
So they just moved the bulkhead connector that fails to on top of the engine! That's a great idea Mopar!
Easier to access on the assembly line. Plug and play engine harness if you will.So they just moved the bulkhead connector that fails to on top of the engine! That's a great idea Mopar!
Noticed that the oil cap on the performance valve cover is at the rear of the engine.
Stock valve cover has cap at front of engine.
Not really important except for convenience.
A suggestion for anyone that owns a 73- 76 A body.
Turn the headlights on and set blower motor on high and let idle for 10 minutes.
Now check for hots spots at the aforementioned connector, connector from ignition switch to under dash harness and both sides of all fuses.
Be careful.
If you have terminals that can melt plastic then you could get a nice burn.
Stock valve cover has cap at front of engine.
Not really important except for convenience.
A suggestion for anyone that owns a 73- 76 A body.
Turn the headlights on and set blower motor on high and let idle for 10 minutes.
Now check for hots spots at the aforementioned connector, connector from ignition switch to under dash harness and both sides of all fuses.
Be careful.
If you have terminals that can melt plastic then you could get a nice burn.
Yeah, I wasn’t happy about that with the engine builder and made no common sense to do that. It’s on my list to fix that. Smh
L connection is Yellow. schematic diagram says DK-green and goes to the horn. That can’t correct?
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