No longer charging found broken wiring

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TRWRacing

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Work was previously done some 10 years ago and this connection has been broken.

Is this the cause of discharging and what harness do I get to fix it. Electrical is not my area of expertise.

IMG_9907.jpeg
 
WHAT ARE YOU WORKING ON?
WHAT HAS BEEN DONE TO THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM (in the past or latly)

if you want to get a harness. There is an " engine forward harness" some are modified for electronic ignition and / or electronic voltage regulator.


BUT you best diagnose what is the cause of the bad wire or you might just melt down a new harness just plugging it in.

Lastly there is too much other stuff in the way in your photo to really hazard a guess as to what the broken wire goes to

Mymopar.com has factory service manuals and wiring diagrams

classiccarwiring.com sells laminated full color diagrams
 
1973 Dodge Dart Sport 360 was installed 10 years ago. Some other pics

IMG_9912.jpeg


IMG_9913.jpeg


IMG_9914.jpeg
 
Do you have a service manual. The 73 manual, and many others are posted for free at MyMopar.com. Some of them got there because of some of us right here. The 73 is one of those

I cannot tell from the photos, even what connector cavity you are looking at. This looks like it "might" be the inline harness connector between part of the engine harness and part of the bulkhead section of the harness. If so, you need to bet busy and bypass it. Cut back to undamaged wire, use additional wire if necessary, and splice each wire.

You don't need that connector, according to Redfish. It was for convenience of the assembly line folks. They could put part of the harness on the engine, and drop the engine in and just plug it right in.

From manual, page 8-167 and 8-164

On the 8 pin "dash to engine" connector R6-12BK is the output / charge line of the alternator, and goes from the alternator to the bulkhead connector, and to the ammeter. You can see it there cavity "P" of the bulkhead connector

73engine.jpg


73bulkhead.jpg
 
Last edited:
Chrysler recognized this was a problem on the 1973 wiring harness R612BK position 8.
In 1974 the number 8 position was left empty and the black wire going to the alternator had a separate male and female single bullet style connector outside of the main connector.
Soldering the black wires together and using heat shrink tubing was a common repair.
 
67Dart273 said:
Do you have a service manual. The 73 manual, and many others are posted for free at MyMopar.com. Some of them got there because of some of us right here. The 73 is one of those

I cannot tell from the photos, even what connector cavity you are looking at. This looks like it "might" be the inline harness connector between part of the engine harness and part of the bulkhead section of the harness. If so, you need to bet busy and bypass it. Cut back to undamaged wire, use additional wire if necessary, and splice each wire.

You don't need that connector, according to Redfish. It was for convenience of the assembly line folks. They could put part of the harness on the engine, and drop the engine in and just plug it right in.

From manual, page 8-167 and 8-164

On the 8 pin "dash to engine" connector R6-12BK is the output / charge line of the alternator, and goes from the alternator to the bulkhead connector, and to the ammeter. You can see it there cavity "P" of the bulkhead connector

View attachment 1716468153

View attachment 1716468154
Click to expand...
Thanks helpful. I was able to locate the device manual and ordering the engine/front light harness to replace this.
 
Got a question...

The connectors in the photos look like a bulkhead connecter but it is on the right side of the engine near the coil. Is that stock in 73
 
Mild 360. Used to have FBO Ignition, but now MRE orange box. Connectors are different than the bulkhead and this is on passenger side next to coil.
 
Dana67Dart Connector on right side was used from 1973 thru 1976.
Wires from the connector went to alternator, regulator, temperature and oil pressure sending units and coil.
 
RustyRatRod said:
You're replacing a whole front harness for one broken wire? Will you adopt me?
Click to expand...
Kinda don’t like the looks of the broken connector. And sits right on the top of oil cap. Honestly it looks like crap and who installed engine 10 years ago broke it disconnecting it due to age. Should have told me and would have bought and replaced it.

IMG_9921.jpeg


IMG_9922.jpeg


IMG_9923.jpeg
 
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Dana67Dart said:
Got a question...

The connectors in the photos look like a bulkhead connecter but it is on the right side of the engine near the coil. Is that stock in 73
Click to expand...

A fair number of threads with engine connector in the past few months

1760792185773.png

In these years two connectors.
1760792335486.png

1760792453925.png


Mattax

Post in thread 'Voltage regulator'

dmopar74 said:
My 73 225 duster the voltage regulator goes up to 15-15.3 volts at around 1500 rpm and above. Is this too high? Everything looks to be ok and well grounded, it's an echlin vr38, non adjustable. What's a good adjustable unit if I need one?
Click to expand...
It is a little high.
Most likely resistance in the system wiring.
Measuring the voltage at key locations under the same conditions will narrow down where to look for the resistance.

If its at 15.3 V only while the battery is charging, that's a clue too.
If it goes back to 15.3 with the battery charged but when you turn the lights on, that's a...
  • Like
 
Did your Dart Sport leave the factory with a slant 6 or a v-8.
You said it had a 360 in it now so is that what it originally came with?
 
townsend said:
Did your Dart Sport leave the factory with a slant 6 or a v-8.
You said it had a 360 in it now so is that what it originally came with?
Click to expand...
It is an H Code 340 car. When I got it, it had a ‘72 340 with bad bearings and rings. Owner gave me the original block as well which froze and cracked. The goal in my retirement years (5 years away) is get the ‘72 340 rebuilt and back in the car. My son is SIU Auto Technology graduate and helps me.
I had never seen this type of connector before. I owned a ‘71 Demon as my first car and my parents had a ‘73 Charger so that’s been some decades ago.
 
Earlier models had a 1 wire connector of different shape/color with a fusible link inline by the bulkhead. Later models got that round white connector at the same fusible link and more than that 1 location. I don't think they all had a fusible link inline. Just a simple easy way to isolate a system or circuit.
I was told that while those other builders used self powered test equipment placed along their assembly lines, the CDP builders used the vehicles live amp gauge as the indicator as they plugged in various systems/circuits.
Plug something in and amp gauge went wonky, unplug it, flag it and let it move on. Don't stop the line to dianose a bad alternator, whatever. It will be corrected later.
 
Only additional wires are tach, electric oil pressure and coolant senders/guages.

IMG_9927.jpeg


IMG_9926.jpeg


IMG_9928.jpeg
 

townsend said:
Wires from the connector went to alternator, regulator, temperature and oil pressure sending units and coil
Click to expand...
So they just moved the bulkhead connector that fails to on top of the engine! That's a great idea Mopar! :eek: :realcrazy:
 
Noticed that the oil cap on the performance valve cover is at the rear of the engine.
Stock valve cover has cap at front of engine.
Not really important except for convenience.
A suggestion for anyone that owns a 73- 76 A body.
Turn the headlights on and set blower motor on high and let idle for 10 minutes.
Now check for hots spots at the aforementioned connector, connector from ignition switch to under dash harness and both sides of all fuses.
Be careful.
If you have terminals that can melt plastic then you could get a nice burn.
 
townsend said:
Noticed that the oil cap on the performance valve cover is at the rear of the engine.
Stock valve cover has cap at front of engine.
Not really important except for convenience.
A suggestion for anyone that owns a 73- 76 A body.
Turn the headlights on and set blower motor on high and let idle for 10 minutes.
Now check for hots spots at the aforementioned connector, connector from ignition switch to under dash harness and both sides of all fuses.
Be careful.
If you have terminals that can melt plastic then you could get a nice burn.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I wasn’t happy about that with the engine builder and made no common sense to do that. It’s on my list to fix that. Smh
 
67Dart273 said:
Do you have a service manual. The 73 manual, and many others are posted for free at MyMopar.com. Some of them got there because of some of us right here. The 73 is one of those

I cannot tell from the photos, even what connector cavity you are looking at. This looks like it "might" be the inline harness connector between part of the engine harness and part of the bulkhead section of the harness. If so, you need to bet busy and bypass it. Cut back to undamaged wire, use additional wire if necessary, and splice each wire.

You don't need that connector, according to Redfish. It was for convenience of the assembly line folks. They could put part of the harness on the engine, and drop the engine in and just plug it right in.

From manual, page 8-167 and 8-164

On the 8 pin "dash to engine" connector R6-12BK is the output / charge line of the alternator, and goes from the alternator to the bulkhead connector, and to the ammeter. You can see it there cavity "P" of the bulkhead connector

View attachment 1716468153

View attachment 1716468154
Click to expand...
L connection is Yellow. schematic diagram says DK-green and goes to the horn. That can’t correct?
 
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