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Update - got the oil pan installed and it fits perfectly, however I'm having issues with which dipstick to use, mine doesn't fit and even after cutting it down it bottoms out in the pan quickly and I can't get any oil on it, there is 5L of oil in the pan.

I haven't measured but I can if everybody is interested, and they're super cheap replacement castings from rockauto, I believe CCCN or something like that, I think they were $250 CAD each for a bare head

I'm running a comp 268 xtreme energy solid cam in a 98 318 Magnum block with factory replacement heads, Hughes 1110 spring kit with retainers and 1.65 rocker arms for .539 lift (.551-0.012 for lash) and it's tight but I've been running it on the street for about a month now and no clearance issues.

I always buy the cheap seal and washer kit from Rockauto, then new bands and clutches separately (red eagle clutches and a 1.60" forward band, standard material double wrap reverse). Pretty cheap and seems to hold up to my abuse.

I ordered a lunati cam from summit about 6 months ago, exact same issue. Ended up canceling it.

The first one could be from 69, 79, 89 or 99. That's the old style DOT date code which only had one digit.

There should still be a DOT code on the Canadian tire somewhere.

I have 2 Blaupunkt 6x9s in the rear and 2 6" JBL speakers in the door with an old school Kicker amp in the rear with a good USB DAC under the dash hooked to the stereo line-in and my Pixel 2XL, it sounds phenomenal and will go as loud as you can handle it with no distortion. The acoustics in...

I actually have an F body so I'll be able to answer that question in a few months or so, I just figured I'd ask on the A body forum because It's more active and I figure if it'll fit in a A body it'll fit in an F body, being slightly longer and wider.

Looks like it could be made to fit easily, any side pictures possibly?

Any pictures? I was thinking about buying one to try out, I just figured I might have to indent the sump a bit to clear the steering, if that.

What do you mean by be careful on shutdown? I assumed a stock oil pan wouldn't have any major issues.

So I was looking around the other day online and saw mention of someone using an oil pan from a 94 Dakota 318, so I searched it up and found some pictures and it looks like it would be damn close to fitting, just clearing the steering linkage. DODGE DAKOTA Dorman Oil Pans 264-233 Has anyone...

Very strange, that's definitely the right valve body that would have came from that year transmission, you can tell its an early model by the lack of a lockup boost tube, this makes me want to go home and check my '88 and see if its the same as yours without the PT body.

Post up a picture of the rest of the valve body pieces, it should have a solenoid block on it with 2 solenoids if it came from any kind of 42RH/A500

I believe that was only in certain years, can't say for sure which years though, any trans I've pulled apart from '88 and under hasn't had the small spring. I would discard it and keep just the piston and the spring in between it and the valve body.

On my '88 42RH I was able to slide the housing back far enough to do the rear servo, it was a bit nerve wrecking trying to slide it back on though, it takes some force and I was worried I somehow misaligned the splines in the OD housing.

I've read that guys have used the TFOD-3 to use a 42RE/46RE without the computer, but then of course you have to manually shift all the time.

I'm surprised nobody has posted one of these yet :lol: My 1980 Volare isn't the prettiest Mopar around

So what you're saying is, ditch the voodoo, advance the stock cam and either deck the block or install slightly taller pistons? And change the rear gear to something around 3.73-4.10? I'm relatively new to all this so please bare with me, i'm trying to learn and get a better grasp on all of this

No problem haha i'm just looking for suggestions on how to add a little bit of power to this engine, as its a bit of a dog as it is now. Its a 1998 5.2 with an Airgap Manifold and 750 Annular booster carburetor (I had a 600 holley and did find an improvement in power with the bigger carb)...

It is a Magnum engine, factory roller cam and lifters.

Well, any suggestions would be mighty helpful, as you're the guy who's good with numbers haha I am not so much. Smaller cam? Re-ring and more compression? Both?

Would the thinner Mr. gasket head gaskets for slightly more compression help? Or is this just a poor cam choice for this combo in general?

If you have another suggestion I'd love to know, as I can still cancel this order, its backordered. I chose this cam because it seemed to fit my intended usage perfectly, I wanted something that pulls fairly hard, pretty much maxes out the lift of my magnum heads, and will still start up in our...

So, what you're telling me is, this is a bad choice? For reference the car has an a500 trans with a factory high stall, and 3.23 rear gears, soon to be 3.73 or potentially higher.

I didn't keep it, it was strictly for testing purposes to eliminate the possibility of it being a vac can issue.

No, I changed both at the same time, I'm a believer that when one goes, it has the possibility to take the other one out with it, and I didn't want to take a chance of potentially hurting a new module or coil

Edit: changed out the coil and module to a 4 pin and it fixed the issue!! :thumbsup:

This cam won't be kept for too long, I've been using it like this for about the last 3ish years, and 60,000km, so I recently got new springs and retainers and have a new camshaft on order, I'm expecting to install it on my holidays last week of may, this is the cam I ordered: Voodoo Hydraulic...