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I bench bled it in the vice, no issues getting it bubble free. After research on here, I also cracked the lines on the master with pops holding one pump to see if I got anything at the master. The car HAS been sitting for a little over a year, other than in and out of a paint booth, but I...

No name generic 15/16s chrome unit. Maybe it’s time to pull the trigger on a Dr. Diff unit and see if it’s the master. Hate to just throw money at the problem but I’ve been trying to bleed it for a few days now and nothing is working. Lines and flares are all good. No leaks. Bleeders are all up...

I’ll give this a try, and the shorter pedal strokes. Bled plenty of cars without any issues. Normally I hate changing more than 1 thing at once and this is exactly why! Just a got it back from paint/body and threw a ton of parts at it. Assuming I didn’t get a good bleed on the master...

Ok, no matter how many times I bleed the brakes I am getting air in all 4 corners. Car is a 1968 Dart, factory KH disk car. I did the 8.8 swap for rear disks and 73+ swap for BBP. All new soft lines and calipers on all 4 corners. New 15/16ths master that was bench bled. No visible leaks, no...

Quick specs for those considering the swap. With the aluminum diff cover and cut down 8.8 the fluid capacity is right at 2.5 quarts. If you are going 7290 driveshaft to 1330 rear, Spicer 5-7437X is the U-joint your looking for. The Driver side Explorer Parking Brake cable is almost the perfect...

Thanks! I was trying to avoid pulling the regulator out, but honestly I should and put new rollers on it. I’ll just do one side at a time so I have a reference. Love the roll down quarters, but the adjustment is driving me crazy!

I’m probably striking out because I don’t know the correct terminology. Was working on my window and snapped one of these fellas. A.) What’s the actual term? B.) Please tell me they are repopped. C.) what does on the back? Do I have a broken end in the regulator now?

At ride height, yes. I moved the tank as far rearward as physically possible, and with two guys bouncing my suspension it’s right there. Close but it does clear.

I have 5.28 backspace on a 18x9.5, but my springs are offset and I have 1/2 inch clearance to them.

Well, mines done once I figure out brake lines and actually get my car back from paint. Pretty happy with it though. The anti-wrap perches should let me move the axle back and center it up in the wheel arch a little better.

Make sure to check out the late 90’s Mountaineers. All the explorers in the yard with 3.73s had 200,000+ on them and were beat. The 2 mountaineers on the yard still looked halfway decent and the one with 3.73s (that I pulled) had 116,000. I’ll do bearings and seals anyway since it’s apart but I...

Awesome. Do you still have my number? Did you get away with a dimple on the ‘74 or did you have to cut a hole? I’ve seen people say both.

Good to know on the SAE. I assumed it was all metric like everything else modern. Appreciate you! For the group, here’s where I’m at. My rear came from ‘98 Mountaineer. The ones local had much lower miles than the explorer. Contrary to some of what I read, same width as the explorers in the...

No worries bud. Sorry to hear that hope things improve. I’ll get it worked out. :thumbsup:

Like several other members, I am also looking for a set, either MP, Mancini or Doctor Diff for my Hotchkis spring. Wrapping up my 8.8 swap and unfortunately already welded my perches at 42” on center so project is going to be stalled until I find a set. Thanks!

Really liking this concept. Can you get sharesome more info on your brake line setup? I’m just about there in my 8.8 swap after I weld it up this week .

Not to derail the thread, but are those the Amazon garage tiles? I like the way they look, but always wondered how they would hold up to weight on a small surface area, like a Jack or engine hoist. How do you like them?

Relatively flat to the bumper. Its all coming back off for paint, so mostly just mocked up to to verify my width was good. Its been out and about around town. Ill get some more pictures for those that are curious.

Old thread but just for kicks: I did the Ranger spoiler on my duster (pictured in the thread) but went a different direction for the dart. Has anyone noticed how much the Hellcat splitter lines match the 67-69 cars bumper lines? Here’s mine sectioned 4” out of the center to square it up.

Then I'm not going to worry about it too much. Going to try longer links and see if that helps. Looking at the thread you posted above, the post directly below yours looks exactly like my setup, with the same issue Im having. The only difference is looking at his bar where the end link goes...

Thanks Rusty. I agree the ground clearance would help. I might try and copy that setup. My only questions, and forgive my ignorance, is I thought the trailing arms of the sway bar were supposed to be parallel to the ground at right height? If I can go higher or lower, I think I can make this one...

Therein lies part of my problem. At some point in her life, she got the newer style tabbed LCAs, but still has the '68 K. I think that the mismatch rules out most of the aftermarket sway bars that are direct bolt ins for either style.

No kicking here. I even started with stating is probably a dumb questions. But the tabs aren't welded on, they are bolted to the schock mount, which seems pretty normal, even if its not ideal.

Thanks Rusty. Any help is appreciated!

Ok. Here’s a dumb question. Working on the ‘68 Dart’s front suspension. Just added PST 1.03 bars, new shocks and working on installing this guy. Got it few months back from a fella on Craigslist when I was looking for something else. It has no markings, came with the links, front of K brackets...

It’s a buddy from work, so I’d have to confirm. He’s a big block Chevy guy and 454 intakes are 2.19, so at least. Probably 11/32 guide for the cutter, but hoping he has a 3/8th. I’ve see where people make a fly cutter out of an old valve, and I have plenty of stock 906 valves, but the are...

Since that cutter runs through the guide (15 degrees?) it’s really cutting an eyebrow more than a true pocket. I wouldn’t think that would have a huge impact on compression and balance? The lock collar should get them all the same on depth if I set it with a feeler gauge, or at least that’s the...

Checking springs should be here tonight, but I haven’t ordered pushrods yet. Once there are here, can I mock up without gaskets at measure valve drop at 10 BTDC and 10 ATDC and add the compressed gasket thickness? I don’t have any compressed gaskets and I don’t want to booger those cometics at...

Well, I didn’t know the proper terminology to start, so thank you RRR! But I do remember seeing that folks on here have done it, so I figured I’d ask.

Hey all. Getting ready to put my 383 together for the ‘68 dart. Nothing fancy, we all have a budget, right? The build is a fresh short block, .030 over with Speed Pro L2315 flat tops .014 in the hole. Cam is the Lunati Bracket Master II with [email protected] and .480 lift with 2 degrees advance (over...