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...set-point. I forget the setpoint just now (I'm getting older) but I imagine it would be, at some logical and easy to maintain temp like maybe 100*F; I'm guessing. the most noticeable sign of lean-running is > a tip-in sag, aka a hesitation, from a dead-stop. > lousy gas-mileage, due to the...

The Transfer slots are your Low-speed fuel delivery system. The Idle mixture screws are just there for Idle enrichment. If the ignition timing is NOT factory, ie is now advanced, then to keep the idle-speed down, this will require the throttle-blade to be closed, which then closes the...

When I read the title, I came prepared with a string of smartazz comments. But now that I see , I decided you don't need me to ruin your day, lol. Happy HotRodding

Just so you know I have a 1965 A904/core from a 273, with the flanged output. but not a pushbutton. However, I might have Cable-shift case.

A hole in the hood works super well.

IDK what you should do; But with your other go-fast goodies, and pistons up a lil higher than the deck, and if your cam has more that 30* of overlap, I know that I (me) would install long-tube Headers, like the Tri-Ys, into a long Transition, then a long torque-tube, into one long...

Check the cylinder pressure. anything less than 150 should be able to run 87. Slantys usually run 145 or less so, they'll run on almost anything, especially in a lightweight car. By relating it to pressure, this automatically compensates for altitude changes. If you have a tired old...

honestly on a stock slanty, in the rpm range that most slantys work in, the two barrel is just bragging rights. It was and remains, an economy measure. I ran it cuz I had it, on the stock exhaust manifold, with the stock pipe but with a straight-thru performance muffler, and you'll be happy to...

and then what are you gonna do for an exhaust system?

Open the gas cap and try again.

I've seen those working in brutal environments so there might be something about the cooling systems to be explored. I did a tune-up once where this slanty was stuffed into a tight-compartment in a combine, and the rad was totally plugged with chaff...... yet it came in running pretty good.

:popcorn:

If you got missing oil with NO visible external leaks, then it has to be going out the exhaust. If it's going out the exhaust there will be evidence in the talipipe, and in the combustion chambers, and therefore, on the plugs. The why of it is a different story. The PCV valve is just doing it's...

What you need is a 318 jammed under the hood, ....... lol. and an A833Overdrive, which has a nice Parade gear and a nice Hiway gear. I know where to find everything you need, including a 4bbl carb, that will cure all your problems. And you're only 16 hours South of me.

I just gotta say this; the top inch or so of bore is where the power is made. If you have a lo-compression design, this is more important than ever. Every .001inch of change in bore-size, is a ring-gap change of .003 and change. If your cylinders have ridges, your rings are guaranteed to be...

I see you have 4 air-leaks there; one hole drilled in each throttle blade, commonly done to introduce Bypass Air for a big-cammed engine, something around 300 degrees advertised or more. That's a lotta lotta Bypass-air, and the engine under it probably did not have any PCV, lol, cuz the...

got the PCV installed yet?

IMO; >As to your ignition system; If the points are making and breaking, as you say they are, and if the coil produces a half inch spark, like you say it does; then your primary ignition system is not your problem. >That just leaves the Secondary System; and with new plugs in, properly gapped...

What type and how many clamps are installed on the New neoprene rubber jumper at the back, from the sender to the main line? If this jumper sucks air, you will get exactly what you describe. Because this jumper is higher than the tank, it does Not leak liquid fuel. If gearclamps, you need two...

Why? If the car stays 225, the car with a Mopar 4-speed will only be slower, than it was when automatic. This is because the convertor is torque multiplier that can occasionally achieve a two to one ratio at zero mph, making 2.73 gears feel like 5.46s even if only briefly. But that ratio does...

IMO I would not suffer an engine that only had a true 90/93 psi; unless it was a stationary engine, or if I only wanted to idle it around for like a couple of miles a week, lol. To get a better idea of the condition of your engine; 1) if it has a PCV valve, I would flip it out of the valve...

...is as good as closed. Increase your rpm 150 rpm then retard the timing until the rpm drops to about 600, or the timing is no less than 5*. reset your mixture screws as may be required. If that don't get it, reset you valve lash .003 looser on the intake, .006 looser on the exhaust, to a...

was that an 80s van? My brother had one of those with a 360 auto in it that ran like crap. He brought it to me, and told me about all the mechanics that had worked on it and nobody could make it any better. Well long story short, he made me a deal I couldn't refuse, Oh boy. So I went to check...

Well I shouldda said that my experience was with well-tuned, well-maintained engines, with correctly functioning parts including the chokes. I too live in Canada, in Southern Manitoba, and one of those slanty cars was a 1980 Volare fb. Of all the carburated winter cars I have owned since 1969...

My experience with slanties is that they are very difficult to flood. When mine got ornery, I just pumped the intake full of gas, floored the pedal and cranked it! It never failed to start. But when the compression goes away, they don't suck no more. Well they sorta do, but if the fuel ain't in...

...pressure back up to say 140psi, the static would need to be ~9.5, but 140 is still pretty feeble. To get to snappy, would be 155psi, and with the 50*Ica , that would take ~10.2/1 Good luck making that happen on a modest budget. And even if you get the pressure up, finding air to burn at 5000...

...Else get a bigger engine ...... The optimum pressure for best gas is about 165psi, which in your 225, with a stock cam or any cam with an Ica of 48*, happens at 9.0 Scr at sealevel. By 4000 ft, the pressure is down to 143psi, according to the Wallace Calculator. That is a loss of 22psi and...

Thanks for the update and Just to mention; Popping off idle, at part-throttle, is also a sign of a lack of advance.

If the carb is calibrated for a PCV, and you install it in such a way that the PCV is not able to function, then in order for the engine to idle, the speed screw will need to be cranked quite a bit higher, for the engine to get the missing PCV air. Of course cranking in the speed-screw, will run...

And my experience with jumping chains is that it takes a lot of throttle to keep it running, not just a lot of timing. Whereas ; increasing the timing on a properly cam-timed engine will require less throttle to maintain a decent idle-speed. But if the idle speed is too high, and the screw is...