Max10
Member
1962 Lancer, Slant 6.
Was running. Parked two months, no start.
- Replaced: ballast resistor, coil, cap, rotor, and condenser (able to do that with the distributor on car), and plugs.
Current situation:
Checking coil wire output shows a thin white spark what will jump 1/2 inch. Spark out of distributor to plugs is weak or non-existent, depending how how I rest. Inline tester shows small orange flash. Clip on tester with grounded spark plug shows nothing.
Test light shows shows bright light to one side of ballast resistor, dimmer light on other side, and matching dimmer light at coil positive.
I am testing by using a remote starter and the key in the on position. If I run a 12v lead from battery positive to coil positive, it sometimes starts smoking and melting. Trying to start it with battery positive to coil positive makes no difference.
Resistance checked from coil negative to battery negative shows almost no resistance if points are closed, and open if points are open. (Using remote starter to bump it back and forth).
After changing the coil yesterday, the car fired up and ran. Gauge showed good oil pressure. I shut it off and haven't been able to restart it since.
Most recent thing is I pulled the distributor to have a look. Nothing seems burnt, and the points open and close when I rotate it by hand. I also stupidly didn't mark the rotor position, so I'll need advice on how to reinstall properly.
Thoughts?
Was running. Parked two months, no start.
- Replaced: ballast resistor, coil, cap, rotor, and condenser (able to do that with the distributor on car), and plugs.
Current situation:
Checking coil wire output shows a thin white spark what will jump 1/2 inch. Spark out of distributor to plugs is weak or non-existent, depending how how I rest. Inline tester shows small orange flash. Clip on tester with grounded spark plug shows nothing.
Test light shows shows bright light to one side of ballast resistor, dimmer light on other side, and matching dimmer light at coil positive.
I am testing by using a remote starter and the key in the on position. If I run a 12v lead from battery positive to coil positive, it sometimes starts smoking and melting. Trying to start it with battery positive to coil positive makes no difference.
Resistance checked from coil negative to battery negative shows almost no resistance if points are closed, and open if points are open. (Using remote starter to bump it back and forth).
After changing the coil yesterday, the car fired up and ran. Gauge showed good oil pressure. I shut it off and haven't been able to restart it since.
Most recent thing is I pulled the distributor to have a look. Nothing seems burnt, and the points open and close when I rotate it by hand. I also stupidly didn't mark the rotor position, so I'll need advice on how to reinstall properly.
Thoughts?