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Good point on the cam bearings. Im having the block bored .030 over and the cam bearings replaced. Hopefully the bearings the machine shop installs will have the holes drilled for the oil passage. If they do, I might just go with LA style rocker shafts. They're cheaper than the harlen sharp push...

I am going to be using the bolt kit recommended by trick flow. Not sure if they have the step in them or not . As of right now I'm leaning towards push rod oiling. In my mind it sounds better to have a separate oil supply for each rocker, compared to one for each rail.

I have a 95 360 magnum I'm building. I tore the engine down a found it has the passages drilled for rocker shaft oiling. My question is, which oiling method is better? Push rod oiling or the oil passage in the block/head? I am using trick flow heads and Harlen sharp rocker shafts. The rockers...

I finally made some progress with this issue. Even though the drive shaft was balanced twice, I decided to try and balance it myself. I installed a hose clamp in 12 different positions on the shaft and ran it up to speed. I found one spot where the added weight reduced my vibration. Im not sure...

Well I'm still trying to figure this out if anyone has anymore ideas. I had a new driveshaft made with 1330 ujoints, new slip yoke and new rear input yoke. I tried shimming the pinion down and up 2 degrees. I even tried shimming the trans up to change the ujoint angle. I replaced the engine...

I called the shop that balanced the shaft for me and they said they only spun the shaft to 2500rpm. I took the shaft back and had them balance it again, but this time I specified that they spin the shaft over 3000 rpm. the guy tried to balanced it again, then called me when he was done. he said...

I didn't think about 3rd being direct, that's a good point. I have ran the car on stands in 3rd and the vibration moves to approx. 3500rpm. which still comes out to be about 75mph. If it is the driveshaft, I'm not sure what it could be. I've tried balance and angle changes. Ive checked the run...

I was reading through AJ's suggestions. particularly (C). those are some things I haven't really tried. the vibration happens from 75 to 90 mph (2500 to 3000 rpm in OD). so I was thinking I would take it up to 90, then put in neutral. I figure if the vibration is still there it has to be after...

I checked drive line runout in 3 places to verify it was not bent. All of my measurements were less then .020. I also checked it at the tail shaft right at the seal. I figured that was good way to verify the main shaft wasn't bent. I tried adding a clamp to the drive shaft to check the balance...

I have a vibration from 2500 to 3000 rpm (engine speed) in 4th gear. I cant figure it out. I have tried everything. I replaced the u-joints, slip yoke, and rebuilt the trans with new bearings and output bushing. swapped in a different rear end. tried changing the u-joint angles. had the drive...

I would add an external fuel pressure regulator near the tanks inc tank, then run a short fuel return line back to the tank. with that set up you should not have to mess with the fuel rails.

nice build. I'm curious why you decided not to use the hx40?

If you still have your fuel tank vent running to the canister then I would at least connect manifold vacuum to the canister. If your venting the tank to atmosphere then you don't need the canister. The connections on the canister are labeled.

He's most likely referring to the Cummins isb 5.9l turbo. It is a common engine in dodge pick ups. The more recent dodges run 6.7l isb engines with vgt's (variable geometry turbo). on a side note Cummins does not build a 10 liter truck engine. The common truck engine is the isx 15l and the less...

I have the engine,harness and ecm. Don't have it in yet though. Still doing body work.

with the manual trans you should not have any problems.

from what I have read, there are a lot of guys with stock ecms and sct tuners running heavily modified 5.9 mag engines. you can find a lot of good info at dakotart.com. hope this helps.

From what I've been reading, it's easier if you have the ecm, harness and engine fuse box.

depends on how much you want to spend. hughes offers a bigger throttle body, intake , injectors, cams, etc. I would contact http://bgperformance.com/. they can program your obd1 ecm and might also be able to tell you what the stock ecm can handle. theres a lot of guys on the Dakota/ram forums...

depending on how deep those dents are and if it is effecting the body lines. i would patch the rust and fill the rest. replacing the whole quarter is not easy and will still require some filler when you are done because most aftermarket quarters are not as good of quality as the original metal.

since you want to be able to drive it anywhere, I would install the hemi. you cant beat efi for driveability. not to mention they make good power and have a lot of aftermarket support. personally I cant afford one, but I did just pick up a 95 360 magnum with the harness and pcm. Im aiming for...

i had issues downloading the file also. i had to use my wifes mac. ill try to attach the schematic.

http://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-ram-faqs-diys-and-how-to-s/301336-2nd-generation-dodge-ram-service-manuals.html this is a link to the service manuals for 94-95 dodge. it is over 1700 pages so its huge, but it has all the schematics you will need. should be able to find your answer there.

I prefer buckets with a console, unless its a split bench.

you could also try spraying it with soapy water. it will blow bubbles if its leaking under boost. it only works when the engine is kind of cold though. otherwise the water just boils off.

just turned 25. been working on my first mopar for about a year, a 72 duster. my parents had alot of mopars over the years and i bought this duster from them. it had been sitting for over a decade. i rebuilt the 318 and put a od833 behind it.