Search results for query: *

Go with AA trans for sure. Speak to Robert. Just tell him what you have and that you want the right levers. He's a great guy.

Looking for some info on the trim rings. The ones I currently have have 4 sets of 2 hooks (for a lack of a better term) on the back. However, the ones I keep finding have a fullset of tabs on the back of the whole ring. Just wondering will they fit or am I looking for the wrong ones. I want...

Shall do Kimmer. I take it from your experience that diagnosing a symptom that can have various underlying issues is the challenge. Especially with a trans that has a crazy amount of components. That's a reason I stated what I knew first hand in the first post. Takes a lot out of the guessing...

I'll thank both of you for taking time out of your busy days to educate me :)

Perfect. Looks like the bases will be covered. Thank you AJ

So question for AJ and Kimmer, would this need to be pointed out to the rebuilder, or would this essentially be part of a standard rebuild? Sorry for such a newbie question, never had to deal with a trans issue on this scale. Thank you both.

After reading that info Kimmer, I think I'm just inclined to tell them to rebuild it anyways as I'm sure there could be more labor involved diagnosing something out of the ordinary than just pull, rebuild and put it back.

The 1-2 shift is what I would call at normal roadspeed, approx 15mph on light throttle. I think the best bet at this point is to take it to a pro to do adjustments, further testing and possible part replacemts etc. I know my limitations. I would rather have pro do it the right way quickly...

If it's the Governor, that's out of my range of ability as I'd be working on it laying on my back - no thanks. LOL.

No leak. Checked.

Afternoon all, 727 trans, no upshift to 3rd. Before anyone chimes in and says "Adjust linkage or stuck valve doohickey", this is what I've done. Have adjusted all linkage, no change. As a test, I Unhooked linkage directly from the trans (yes I know, don't drive fast or for a long distance...

Take a peek at this, no wonder people are having to drill holes with so many styles of levers out there. Again, if anyone is reading this, I need an A body KD lever.

Yup, woukd rather take the right piece and not go and drill holes. If you do find one amongst your collection of stuff, please let me know asap as the car isn't moving anywhere until I get this right. Anyone reading this got one??

I have no idea, it's a long sucker. Can you point me in the right direction for an A body one? Searching KD levers on Google just brings up the wrong stuff, or better yet, do you have one??

So if I was to fab something for the carb end, would something like this work? The pin below that flat piece I'm holding is the stud where the KD cable attaches.

Best part of this is that my exhaust pipe where it connects to the headers are in the way, so each time I touch the KD lever, I have to wait for it to cool down and then remove it. And of course I don't have a hoist so I'm laying on my back doing this, so would rather try and get it right the...

Morning all, Just looking for clarification here. As the old rod linkage was essentially a 1 to 1 movement from carb to KD lever, would I be right in thinking that to get the leverage right for a cable setup would be to measure from the pivot point of the carb bracket to the center of the stud...

all-years All Makes All Models Parts | MF293 | 1962-76 Mopar Lockng Ring Install Tool | Classic Industries

I think I found it.... TCI 122400 Streetfighter - anyone agree or disagree?

Just wondering what these numbers/ stamp means in this valve body? From a 727 Trans. Either 163 or E91 Thanks

Evening all, I've never done a change of a governor and was wondering if I can do this with the trans still in the car. From what I've read, I remove the tailhousing, rotate the governor housing so I can remove the clips, remove the governor, insert new one, and then put everything back in...

I have a rubber mallet. Hoping between the wood, tape and if the planets line up, that this will go in! :)

Thanks for the info. Yes clips are in right spot. I think I'll try your method of using a block of wood. I have plenty of wide tape and we'll. Will let you know. :)

Evening all, I installed the front and rear glass in my 67 Notchback using 68 gaskets. I have the stainless trim and the rear trim went in without any hitches. The front however is being one S.O.B. Have installed the clips on the correct locations but that trim will just not hookup. The trim was...

sorry, literally sold approx 15 mins ago. If I get another, I can let you know.

Either way if you have that style of idler, you just saved $$$ :)

Could be as simple as someone changing out the K member to a 68 and up, especially if they've done the suspension work you were referring to. If the engine was out, it would have been faster and less complicated to change the K member rather than cut one off of an old one, then reweld it. :)

If yours is a bolt through, then someone must have changed it for a 68 and up which are only about $25. Can get them from most parts stores. 67 had 2 bolts, not 1 and a bolt through. Hope that helps.

Just lifted the front, removed old one, put new one in. Total time was maybe 15 mins including jacking the car up.

Last drop - $65+ $20 shipping (Because of size of package)