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I recently purchased a tti exhaust to go with my tti headers, I'm curious if anyone else has ran this exhaust with the leaf spring relocation and where they've putt the hangers since it would be a tight fit on the frame rail to mount. Just trying to get a rough idea, I do have a fuel cell that...

Would you know off the top of your head what I'd be able to fit under the car if I did the relocation and mini tubs?

I have the 3/4 relocation kit, so the outside of the wheel is gonna be fine it'll just be the inside that might hit the springs?

I've been looking around the posts and keep getting mixed answers I just want to know if I can fit a 15x8 with 275/60 4 1/2 back spacing on an 8 3/4 with the stock leaf location on a 72 valiant

I blew out the strap downs on my pinion yoke yesterday and snapped all the bolts off into it so now I'm stuck ordered a new one for my 7 1/2 rear end, the cars a 72 valiant and is my daily so quick responses would be greatly appreciated to get my car back on daily duty.

It's an edelbrock 600 with a performer manifold, I was playing around with the mixtures screws last night and it started to run better after I turned them about 2 1/2-3 turns out but of course with my luck went to go tighten the hold down bolt for the carb and the stud snapped off into the...

It's starting to get very cold at night up here in New York and as of this passed weekend my car has not been likening it at all, usually it will start second crank and hold idle but now it just does if you don't give it gas, then as soon as it's idling it sits around 500 it drives fine it's...

I have an 84 360 out of a d150 and my timing marks only go up to 10 before 0 and 10 after I have the car timed at about 9 right now with a normal timing light with no degree dial but the car in first if I give it wide open under 2500 will pop and back fire through the carb then pull like a train...

Can you solder or braze it even if it's leaking from the core?

What do you mean by 2 and three row? It's a stock 360 out of an 84 d150 with headers everything else is stock. I believe it's the 19" rad

I just got my 360 4spd swap done in any car and the used sb rad I have for the car has a small leak and I still have my slant rad laying around and was wondering if that would work with the car and also the car doesn't like being in reverse it stalls out unless I over rev it.

I think I found the problem, sorry for the delay been busy the passed few days, but the clutch fork is moving around on the throw out before it presses it down, the clip for the fork was loose when I first got it(used) but I thought I fixed it and got it back into place, the fork moves over and...

So what you're saying is I could try maneuvering the motor and tranny around and see if that might help to fix the problem or is it more of adjustment/ moving the zbar /pivots?

That's what I was planning on doing tomorrow I had someone press the clutch while I was underneath checking everything lready but maybe I'll adjust and play with it all again and see if I can find any difference.

It's a diaphragm plate and I already took out the spring and put a lighter smaller spring in just so the pedal would have some type of return kick to it

Would the length be a problem even if the bearing is almost touching the plate fingers?

The disk was labeled with the flywheel Side so that eliminates that, I'll check and measure the pivots and everything, and the pedal is soft until its about 3/4 from the floor and comes back resting behind the brake pedal and not back where it should be

Everything z bar related was bought off of Brewers so as far as that everything should be the right part, could it possibly be from having the clutch rod in the wrong way, meaning the bend where it meets the z bar facing the z bar or facing the wheel well?

It's a new clutch with a motor and tranny swap it self, I measured the crank depth and bushing size before putting the tranny in and everything fit nicely

I have the street performance McLeod clutch kit from Brewers and have no more room for adjustment with the throw out bearing and the clutch isn't engaging at all the transmission wont even grind or go into gear in 1-4 with the car running, but as soon as it's off it goes through gears no...

Moog*** not mood

im having trouble finding a u joint to work for my slip yoke the closest I can get is a mood u joint with the part number 347 and the yoke part number is 7206 a 30 spline it's been at a tranny shop for two weeks and we've just about ran out of options to figure it out. It's still a 7 1/4 rear...

I did do research and almost every review I found was how easily they installed the clearance was tight on the driver side but most people found the installations to be a small frustration.

The thing is even if I raised the motor in the rear and tilted it towards the passenger side it still would not clear the first tube kept hitting power steering

I'm having trouble getting my driver side headers on even when I take the steering apart underneath it still will not clear. I have a 72 val with a 360 swap with power steering, the tranny is not in yet so I was thinking that might be part of the problem any input can help.

Would anyone have any input on what I should cut the input shaft and slip yoke with if I have to cut them?

It's a 19" rad it's in good shape still. And it's a 3spd auto and have you had experience with other headers?

do you guys think it's possible to run my / rad with the 318 or will it not keep the motor cool enough? And anyone have opinions on heddman or hooker racing headers and how low they sit?

After searching around for a little while I know for sure I have the "proper" a body 833. Back to the motor now, would anyone recommend running an electric fan instead of a clutch fan or since I will most likely stick with my sock / rad run both an electric and clutch fan? I have to change most...

What do you mean by proper a body 4spd?