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UPDATE: Finally, the front pipe was not 2¼ except for a part ahead of the catalytic converter. Now received 2¼ everywhere, the cata was sold to partially finance the operation. Yes, we have a difference! Can feel more torque, acceleration with less effort.

Someone knows what's the diameter of those two bolts? Gasket is Fel-pro 9547 but I need to find the correct flange for the front pipe.

I read the Exhaust Manifold Mod, great work! But still wonder what tool he put on his hand grinder.

How did you enlarge the outlet?

Looking under my car and taking a few measurements, I saw that I have a 2¼ O.D. front pipe. which narrows to 1 7/8 where the catalytic converter is welded. Could we start from the front pipe and continue this up to 2¼ all the way back? Do you see any side effects to doing this? I would also...

I changed one of thoses mount few years ago. Got only the inner rubber part. So yes, it can be pressed in. I don't remember the brand name but was inexpensive from Rockauto.

Yes the outside was a bit damp, fluid was slowly leaking on the firewall, absorbed by the dust and dirt. Master cylinder replaced, problem solved! New brake fluid everywhere, new rear cylinders, brake lines and flexibles inspected. The car will be safer.

I expected to find some "sheens", like a shining sun. None. Nowhere. They do not grab. :-S

I managed to put the drums back on, but one thing leaves me confused. I can't find a leak anywhere, not a big leak, but the front part of the master cylinder is slowly draining. Every 150 or 200 miles, especially in city driving, I have to adjust the level. Internal leak? (no power brake to suck...

Done successfully :-)

The front part of my car's master cylinder is draining very slowly, but enough that I suspect a leak. I was checking the wheel cylinders, in case I saw the leak, but stepped on the brake pedal without putting the drums back on first! Obviously, impossible to put them back, how to be able to...

Thanks, but what can be the right size wire or rod and settings? The replacement pan is 19 ga steel. When removing the old rusty metal, do you keep a narrow edge of the old floor on the sides?

Any advices or tips on how properly doing this? I have no welding experience! Costly to send to a shop? My front right floor pan is badly rusted. I also found my brodcast sheet, was under the carpet but sheet in very bad condition.

I guess we just have to get used to listening to the noise that changes when the fuel is going up to the filler pipe and release the pump before a small overflow.

The front speaker in the middle of the dash: 4" x 10"

There is a problem! Between a good ground and the positive side of the ignition coil, got 5.95V While cranking, got only 8.5V How this can be explained...

Many thanks. Today I replaced the pick up coil and the reluctor. Also, someone told me to do the voltage tests again, but instead of the voltmeter use a test light, looking for an egal brightness eveywhere. Done, everything looks fine.

The patient is my 1975 Dodge Dart. Since about three weeks, the engine is intermittently difficult to start, no matter hot or cold. This week, the car stalled in traffic. Restarted just long enough to let me pull on the side and stalled again. Hood was open for a few minutes, seems to cool down...

It would be less complicated to keep the car original...

Here is my engine. The blue paint was still available from my local Dodge dealer. Part number: P4349217AB

The coil was always in vertical position. It's the original bracket, original location.

Already done. I saw this advice here on the forum last week. So took my drill and a wire brush, cleaned both the ECU box and the inner fender, added a star washer between.

Yes stock electronic ignition and correct four prongs ballast resistor.

On my Dart 1975 I had to change the ignition coil in August 2015. Now two years and not even 3000 miles later, again, the damn coil was faulty. This time I bought the most expensive available at Rockauto hoping it will be more durable. But I wonder what you think of that, if I changed two, it's...

Wow, I like this forum! Got many advices within minutes. Thank you for sharing your tips.

But don't botch the job like they often do. Read carefully your service manual. Torque setting may vary depending of year.

[/url][/IMG] I'm suppose to put 41 in-lbs on the adjusting screw (red arrow) then back it off 7 turns and finally tighten the lock nut to 30 lbs-ft. So far, seems to be easy. But how i can tighten the lock nut with my torque wrench without messing my adjustment!?!?

Great place to buy. Most of the time, shipping cost to Canada is not prohibitive.

Got my car two years ago, but new on this site. Was looking for a Dart Swinger but finally brought a sedan in good condition. 1975, 225 with automatic, 2.76 diff. gear, vinyl top, etc.