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about to install Petronix distributor and Flamethrower coil on my 67 Satellite 318 My understanding is: -disconnect ballast and jumper those wires -disconnect orange box, but not sure if i just leave unconnected or have to jumper wires for that thanks

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@AJ/FormS , video doesn't tell whole story. Yes, kinda looks normal, and does have alot of condensation at startup until it gets hot but when getting on it on highway...it smokes enough, people get out from behind me. I can drive normal speeds and not really see any smoke. This has been...

@AJ/FormS , i thought you were on to something with the PCV. There was some oil on the valve and at end of hose at carb which goes into the center port on my 1406 Edelbrock. I disconnected the valve and ran it out on the highway with no change. Still leaving a decent cloud on hard excel. I'm...

to answer above: 1. builder assembled with .30 over rings. Compression is good. 2. running a FRam PCV FV191 valve on drivers side, ported to carb. Valve covers have baffles. 3. diff. valve heights resulted in diff. push rod lengths in some cases with adj. rockers as well to get .020 preload...

so...rebuilt 76 block, bored .30 over, whiplash cam. Heads were done by a separate builder and had stem height issues that i sorted out with a few diff length pushrods and adjustable rockers. Since day one, i've had smoke on left bank exhaust. Also get a cloud on hard accel/decel. Compression...

@Dana67Dart , @67Dart273 , car has no additional accessories. Stock headlights. (added crackedback headlight/relay wiring) and 60amp ALT. -bulkhead connectors where examined, cleaned and di-electric grease added. -will run bypass from ALT to Starter relay (8GA with 12Ga fusible link) to reduce...

I decided I wanted to do the easier ammeter bypass in my 67 Sat by bolting together the feeds and taping up really good. My question is would you expect them to get warm? Roughly, 100degs? I would expect due to resistance in the system, some heat is expected, but it surely is not enough to melt...

used air into cylinder. Just to be clear the Blue Posi-stop seals are what was on there. I switched to Viton umbrella seals..just didn't take a pic after.

so we ran a boroscope on all cyl. on drivers side and saw what look like small drips on cyl #5 piston. Swapped out int/exh. seals. Don't see smoke on the road but tapping the pedal after idleing and get a little puff on this side. Going to change all seals on this side this wknd.

ordered Vitron seals. We're going to use an endoscope today or tomorrow and look inside. Seals are pretty quick but not saying it couldn't be intake gasket. Plugs are good and no smoke on hard accel. Head work was rebuild only. Cast iron rings.

the issue seems to be valve seals. The head rebuilder was questionable. Stem heights were all over the place and I've had slight smoke from drivers side from the get go. We took video running out to the highway and letting off and its evident its smoking on decel and after loading up at stops...

MOPAR black valve covers. I think the baffles are small, like this example. I was reading a thread about that. If hose is oily....I should make bigger baffles?

i know I checked them once and found some loose....I'll check again.

compression test checked out. All cyl. btwn 135-145. Plugs look good. I could go out and get a leak gauge set..might be quickest diagnosis. From what I read.. no more than 20% leakdown is acceptable..air @ intake=int. valve, @exh=exh. valve, @ dipstick=rings, @radi=head gskt. The other thing is...

so I've run into an issue of oil consumption and smoke on startup after sitting. Everything seems to point to valve seals. Unfortunately, I have 500 miles on a rebuild and the I'm not totally confident in the headwork. They came to me with different stem heights and I ended up with diff. push...

so I now understand that I don't need to remove the thrust block on cone style sure grip. (pic in post below) Just slap new green bearings on. Rear Axle Green Bearing Install Questions

someone told me to check if the thrust pin is in place I look into the center section and make certain that I cannot see daylight coming in from the other side

so I'm over here because there's a wealth of knowledge that may help me understand what's needed in my 489 cone-style suregrip swap. Please correct me if I mis-state something, as this is my first mopar.(67 satellite) From what I've read I could pull the axles and use them to check the new rear...

so my understanding is if this 489 case has the larger yoke I'll need the conversion joint (7260-7290).

The 3.23 is a suregrip. The 741 in the car now I'm sure is original. The 3.23 is one of the units in this pic. I'm picking it up on Turkey day.

Yes, I have the entire 489 center section. So my understanding is that I'll need to check the yoke size on the 489. Any links to a vendor that sells the two sided adapter?

currently, my 67 satellite has a 2.76 open 741 rear and I just picked up a 3.23 489 case. I read somewhere that I would need to change the pinion? Any input on what's needed for this swap would be appreciated.

Here's the whiplash cam in my 318

Fel-Pro 1213 Motor runs well, I'm just obsessed with finding the smoke and periodic miss issue. I'll be digging into the valvetrain and ignition circuit. Will report back.

I have a new cap I can try. Wire are newer 8mm accel super stock. The other thing I was thinking is what if I have a lifter going? Would a floating exhaust valve staying open at times blow gray exhaust like shown? I'm going to open up the valve cover and check while also re-torque heads.

so press. test was the same again. No sign of coolant in oil. I have a new rotor and cap looks ok. I did pull plug wires on drivers side and when I got to cylinder #5 it did not seem to stumble, so we checked with a tester and its firing. Exhaust looks grayish.

Cam has been properly broken in and car/engine has approx. 100+ road miles on it. I'm going to look at oil and radiator press. test again tonight. I'll post a video of exhaust.

Hmmm...I did not run fully up to temp. Wasn't sure I needed to do that. That could be done tomorrow. Manual brakes...no booster. I'm starting to get concerned about the possibility of a crack in the head. Don't know if heads where magnafluxed. I do have a set of rebuilt 302's, but don't know...

just to clarify...press. test done on non-running warm engine. Re-torque heads has been on my mind and will check.