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Bump....Almost done pulling the drivetrain. I will be posting the car local once the drivetrain is completely out.

74 Duster rolling chassis for sale. Clean title and very attractive exterior/interior 74 Duster originally a /6, Looks like the passenger side floor board and the spare tire well was replace previously. Small flaws from over the years on the body (minor scratches and Knicks) but no dents, some...

Selling just the body at this time. I will have this post removed and repost just the body Moved to [FOR SALE] - 74 Duster rolling chassis $5k

I will be uploading a lot more pictures this weekend when I take the car out for a drive.

I’m in sandy 97055

Hi, not sold and not sure why it says my inbox is full. Nothings in it lol

Yes the driveline goes with the car with both options. I unfortunately don’t know the exact color, it was previous to me buying it, same with interior

74 Duster 318. Looking to sell and move on to another project. I'm looking at 2 options. Option 1 $15k for the whole car as a 95% completed project, or option 2 $5K for a rolling chassis ready for your motor and tranny. Clean title and very attractive exterior/interior 74 Duster originally a...

I will go through this after work, but I will need to do something as the handheld reboots once I let the key drop from crank to run, so will need to keep that live. I may PM you directly if I need some clarification later.

Funny I was just reading your replies on this other post Clean 12v switched source that is hot cranking and running I was just thinking of adding a relay, just not the time delay. If I recall a normal relay will still keep the 12v from dropping since both IGN1 and IGN2 are being feed from the relay

Used a stop and balancer is correct for timing mark, rotor was still off so I pulled the oil shaft and rotated it until I am pointing to the number 1 spark plug. Should be good now I have to figure out how to get a 12v during crank and run with no drop. LOL

Hey all. I am working on my 318 in my 74 Duster. I’m in the process of switching to the hyper spark system. When I found TDC (this is a running engine) I noticed that my distributor is more pointing between 3&5 spark plug, had compression in the stroke and the balancer is at 0 with the timing...

Yeah the nice part is you have the lower flanges, mine are top mounted so the bolt is to high for that. But I have temporarily have a solution unit I find what I want for the long term.

That makes sense being a race car, this one is more of a street and show but I have similar setup on my 440 belvedere.

Duh why didnt I think about the header bolts. Good call, also alot cheaper so if I dont like it oh well!

Hey all just looking for some idea here. I have a 318 in my 74 Duster. I just received my plain aluminum tall valve covers I wanted. I realized one of my steel stamped valve covers still had the two wire holders on it on the passenger side, which is pretty clean. Has anyone come up with a good...

Alright well it’s clear the ammeter is the issue. Thank you for all the advice I have it fired up and will determine if I want to replace it right now or wait until this winter when I start my other laundry list of fixes

Thank you that was why I was just about to ask too!

so how are you by passing it then? I already have a voltage meter in the car and never look at the ammeter so if it doesn’t work I’m good with that too. This car is by no means a restored oem car lol

So just for testing what would happen if I put a 30amp breaker in replacement if of the ammeter? I feel like I’ve heard of people removing them completely from the system(not looking to do that) just curious to by pass it to make sure I get all my power before I spend more money then needed.

ok good to know I have one I’m going to buy today to replace it anyways so we will see I if that takes care of the issue

Only pulling from the post with the positive feeding it.

Let me go check

Sorry edit that in, 74 duster

Also I wanted to note that the Ammeter gauge has always worked. I know the source of the corrosion and that is being addressed already, but the car is now garaged so its not a new issues and can tell its an older leak at the wipers.

Hey all, I have been trying to determine where my issue is and coming up with no luck. 74 Duster, The car was running the other day, shut it off and when to start it 10 minutes later and I have no power in the car, no dome light nothing. So after an hour of testing under the hood and at the bulk...

Thanks for the link i was able to find and order one for $10 with shipping.

It did have a leak previously, car is garaged only now and I am replacing the wiper gaskets since that looks like where the leak was. Your right it did damage the headlight switch too that what im tore it all apart.

Are you referring to the extend stock coupler?

Yep after it was cut