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I bought this 69 Cuda Fast back last year and am working out the bugs to make it drivable. I got all the electrical working now my next issue is the fuel filler tank grommet and vent tube. My 67 Cuda is a coupe so it was easy to remove the filler tube and Tank. This is a 69 fastback and it needs...

I don't think so. This was probably a dealer accessory. This is quality chrome, solid metal and weighs 7 ounces. That's 1 ounce short of half a pound!

The only way that comes to my mind is to purchase a new Cable that has the same gauge wire and has a similar OEM type clamp as you desire. Cut the new cable leaving about 1 inch coming out from the new clamp, Use a NON insulated butt connector of the appropriate size. join your OEM wire with a...

You should be able to swap everything straight over. My understanding is that you need a different master cylinder because there is a valve at the port that keeps residual pressure needed on drum brakes to keep the cups sealed in the wheel cylinder. You don't want this residual pressure on the...

Just a note about LED replacement. If your dash has plastic filters and you want to change the color you must remove these plastic colored transparent discs. Example my 69 Cuda has blue lens filters for the instruments so if i want to change to red I would have to remove the blue filter as red...

I had researched that before and I used a 28 Ohm resistor to bench test each of my gauges and they all went to half point so my gauges were all good. My fuel tank unit is bad. I will drop it after I get the dash cluster and wiring finished

This what I recommend, its output is 5 volts NOT 6 volts. My research says to use a 5 volt on Mopar's. 12v to 5v Volt Converter, DROK DC Voltage Regulator Board Power Supply Module, DC 6.3-22V 12 Volt to 5 Volt 3A 15W Waterproof Car Volt Step Down Buck Converter. Over-current protection...

Check the salvage lots, any 69 Mopar car or truck (pre column mount ignition) and older should work.

Found one for a 442 Cutlass NOS 1972-74 Oldsmobile Door Thermometer 983381 READ DESCRIPT 1973 442 Hurst OLDS | eBay This one is going on Ebay!!

There was listed here a few years back. They wanted 50 bucks for a rusted one. I think I will take your advice and list it on Ebay. I wont drill any holes in my Cuda door. Door mounted thermometer?

I have one, I didn't know what years it was for but it a cool accessory. Mine is in almost perfect shape except I don't have the mounting bracket. I think I will list it on eBay. I wont drill any holes in my Cuda.

Yes the motor wiring are all the same. It is in the switch and wiring. I bought a cheap aftermarket and it workes perfect until I can rebuild my numbers matching motor. Go to Rock auto and get the part numbers for your application and then check Ebay. That's what I did and it was 42 bucks.

If the aftermarket Wiper motor will mount and the Arm attachment is the same you can use one. I bought one till I can rebuild my OEM. There are only 4 wires coming. This will work for you. There is no such thing as a Variable motor. The speed is controlled by the rheostat built in to the switch...

well the orientation of the MOPAR logo is side ways. I thought it might mount to the drivers mirror because of the alignment of the logo and the red line. It has a threaded hole in the lower back side and is hollow in the back center with a center tube like a deer whistle. I thought a hood...

My brother gave this to me. He had it in his garage for years. Does anyone know where this Thermometer attaches to?

Standard Motor Products TL100 Trunk Lock Cylinder https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CQ6CA4/?tag=fabo03-20

There is no such thing as a variable motor. I biught an aftermarket for 42 buck on EBay. I dont know if it will work for a 64, it worked on my 69 Cuda. You will need a variable switch or ad an inline rheostat. See my post. schematics are there

Maybe I can help Disconnect both battery terminals!!! Double check your ammeter connections on the back of the dash. One wire is a 12 Gauge red wire, this comes from the battery to the ammeter. The other is a 12guage black wire and runs to the ignition switch. If theses are correct. You need to...

single speed to variable, same 4 wires

Yes I cut the slots on the side brackets out more it will allow the radio to slide farther forward than shown. These are the flattest bolt heads I could find.

Here is what I have, I doubled up on some aluminum and I think it will work. The left side was a little tricky but I was able to duplicate the double bend offset back. Will make adjustments in the car. Looks like I have to file the dash openings a tiny bit so new thumb wheels will come through.

Great, I feel confident I can do it. Just wanted to make sure its possible. I will use screws with flat heads to attach the bracket to the Redondo that way the radio can be positioned as close as possible to the dash. Thank you

What gauge metal did you use? Did you have to tack weld to the Redondo brackets? did you have to use a metal brake? what do the brackets you made look like. where they just heavy duty straps? I will make this work. I can't afford those retrofits. They are about $700 Bucks. This car is in all...

No the right side is also offset to the right and recessed in a square pocket as in the pic

Notice the Barracuda is different from the rest. That left mount is offset up and set back and the right side is just offset to the right.

Yes you understand my problem, I think I have to make some brackets. I am hoping someone else had this issue and can give me a tip.

there is no bezel, its part of the entire instrument cluster and I don't want to cut the factory dash or instrument cluster/panel