I have a mess with 69 Barracuda, the previous owner screwed up all the wiring, nothing worked and all the fuses blew instantly. I found wires swapped out in the body harness, the fuse box, Dash, no heater cables and A/C Heater vacuum control hoses incorrectly. The Wiper motor was one of the problems, the wires going into the motor had all the cloth insulation had disintegrated shorting out at the motor internally.
OK guys I got it working It was only a $42.00 dollar gamble and my theory proved true. I was able to find a schematic showing the newer style connectors for a 2 speed motor. I just needed to know which spade connectors were for F1=Red, F2=DK Green, P=Blue and A=Brown. It doesn’t matter which motor you have. Control is done in the circuit wiring, fixed or variable resistor (internal to switch or external at Motor) There are the 4 basic wires above. In the schematic for the 2 speed you see there are 6 connectors. I only used 4 because the other 2 are for the fixed resistor. My resistor is still in the A brown circuit, it’s just moved further up the circuit and located in the switch and in my case variable. Any motor can be made variable by adding a variable resistor in the Brown wire A (Armature) so it limits the current through that circuit. I only had the 4 wires, so as you see in the schematic I ignore the top 2 connectors and connect the brown wire directly to where they have that jumper (Red)V3A-18BR. If you wanted to make yours variable you would wire it with just the 4 wires and installing a variable resistor (Rheostat, like a headlight dash dimmer) at the dash coming out of the switch. But you must calculate the wattage needed. I bench tested this cheap motor at full 12 volts and it drew 3.3 amps at 30 Watts, at the slowest variable position it drew 1.3 Amps at 15 Watts. This is a cheap smaller motor so Stock might be 2 or 3 time more. You need to measure the current to determine the wattage needed. (Voltage x Amps= Wattage and for resistance V= I x R or V/I= Résistance. My OEM switch has an internal variable resistance of about 9 ohms based on the current and voltage reading. You also need to make sure that the switch housing is grounded because F2 use that for ground, P gets power when the switch is off, this allows the motor to continue to park position until the internal motor contacts are opened by the cam inside the gear box.This cheap $42.00 motor is just temporary for me because I don’t want to spend 500 bucks for a OEM rebuilt. I fabricated a new harness with 2 feet of the 4 colors and crimped the Male ends that insert into the OEM Harness, this allows me to keep the original wiring that is factory soldered/motor intact for later reinstallation after rebuilding it. I had no need for a motor mounted resistor because mine is integral to the switch. Basically the switch has 2 output pathways one way give full 12 voltage, when you switch to the second position this send power to the Resistor at the motor limiting the current to the motor either fixed or variable. If you do want to go variable you probably need 9 or 10 ohm and the wattage will depend on the current draw of the OEM motor. Volts (12) x Amps) At least a100 watts I estimate. you can find the resistors on Ebay
Thank you everyone for your help.
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