Search results for query: *

Could be slipped marks on the dampher. Late timing can cause the overheating. Try advancing it a bit and see if it runs better.

Well, I don't mind adjustments on the solid lifter rockers, and there are a few good grinds out there for the solids, but I wasn't aware that the stock rocker ratio was so off. Is this common among them, or can you search out good ones?

Also seperate bellhousings are always for manual trannys. The most common automatic for a slant is a slant 6 904, or it's variants (but NOT from a smallblock V-8 which won't fit) and the bellhousings are an intergal part of the auto's (one piece). There was also a 727 for the slant found mostly...

Val69_170, sorry, didn't mean to hijack your thread. Dan, thanks for the info! I'm learning (trying to anyway). I guess the real question is if, other then no longer having to do adjustments, is there any real advantage to running hydralic lifters in a street/strip car? I'd think the solids...

Sorry, I didn't mean that the lifters were in the heads (they are obviously in the block). But it was my understanding that the old blocks didn't carry enough oil through the lifter galley for hydralic's to work. Is that wrong?

Here's a pic of a slant bellhousing I found somewhere. This one is for a manual tranny, but the flange to engine is the same on all of them. Of course, you can't measure bolt distances on a picture, but you could print ot out and take it with you. Notice mostly the starter motor placement, which...

I wouldn't necessarily call a '69 block early. Any slant 6 head with the solid lifter setup will fit any earlier slant 6 block. The heads are the same for any block size. There were some changes in later years to the spark plug (which still works fine). The heads eventually went to hydralic...

Anybody have any used but reusable slant six 198 rods at a decent price, preferably in northern CA? PM me here Thanks!

memike, do you have a link to that thread?

The double row timing chain is NAPA part 9168, used from 1962 to 1975 on the slant six. The sprockets are part S338 and S339.

I'm getting ready to turbocharge a stock 225 myself. From the research I've done on the web (Yikes! Info from the web!?), it's seems that there are three turbo's that can be adapted which would be well suited to the 225 slant, based on their maps, size, and flow. The PTE 6262DBB turbo from a...

Oversize valves are somewhat useless unless the head is properly ported to take advantage of them. Indeed, some mild porting, particularly in the pockets, will help the stock valves emmensly in both naturally asperiated and forced induction. What 2 Darts mentioned about forced induction is true...

As the title says. Has anyone here built a draw-thru slant 6 turbo setup? What was used in your setup, and any pics? Thanks!

4mm is a lot of movement against spring pressure, and would indicate valve guides/stems that are basically destroyed. So I am wondering if we dealing with mis-recognition of parts here? You said "The pieces with the springs." I wonder if you mean the 'rocker arms'? They also have little springs...

The section on that site is called Boost & Nitrous, and there isn't any thread dealing with fuel referencing that I could find either. it was discussed on that site that referencing the stock fuel pump only works on lower power levels, apparently because higher levels of boost will just confuse...

Since the 60's Mopar engines have used three automatic tranny bellhousing bolt patterns; one for the big block V-8's, one for the small block V-8's, and one for the slants. A small block V-8 727 will NOT bolt directly to a slant. Though I have not yet done this (plan to), I am told by most...

I'm interested in building for quench. Of course, this is quite difficult with an open chamber head, but since the chamber sits about .200" into the head, if it could be milled that much, and the right shaped and CH piston found, it can be acheived. I've read that some have angle milled the head...

The Mopar performance book says that every .0068" cut equals 1cc. But remember that the combustion chamber is itself like a dome shape, so the further you cut the less cc's you remove. Supposedly a .090" cut (depends on what you read, some books say .100") gives 9.4:1 compression, but I suspect...

So .150" has been done without problems?

What is the maximum amount of slant 6 head milling anyone here has done successfully? Seems .100" is common, but I've heard of .140" and beyond. What have you done?

Yes, that is almost a perfect beginning install, but he doesn't mention what original carburetor he used or how he jetted it, or jetted the 4 bbl he later used. He says he only used the primaries of the 4 bbl (so why not stay with a 2 bbl?), but the manifold shows all 4 holes, so how did he do...

Has anyone written a detailed, step by step article on turboing a 225 carbureted slant? I have considerable naturally asperated experience, but have never worked with a turbo. I'm looking for about a 50% power increase. Where can I find a generic slant 6 article like this? Not a "...here's my...

I have a chance to get some 516 heads (yes, I know-hardly the best choice) but I can get then very cheaply. The seller states that they have been professionally ported. But after talking with him on the phone, he admitted that he had done the porting himself, following instructions from an...

Looking for a set of used but reusable 440 six pack pistons, or any pistons with the 2.060" compression height. Prefer standard bore but will consider oversize. If you're price is right (many arn't) I'm interested. PM me here or email: [email protected]

Can the 346 big block heads (which I have) be safely milled to a closed chamber shape? Or would they end up too fragile? Seems to me a .100" cut (or more) would be necessary. I've read where people have done it, but many say don't try. Opinions?

Looking for a reusable set of KB215's, or similar pistons for a 400 stroker at .020" or .040" over (not .030"). PM me or email: [email protected]

Anyone have a chart or diagram (or description) of how oil flows in a big block? Particularly flow through the crank? Thanks!

While rebuilding my 400, which doesn't appear to have been rebuilt ever before, I noticed that the old main bearing shells have 001 stamped on the backs. Not .001" just 001. The rod shells don't. Does that mean that the original main journals were cut .001" undersize? Or is it just some other...

A stroked 400 is a strong combo, but a stock stroke can run fine as well. The problem with the 400 is compression. A set of KB240 pistons with closed chambered heads will take care of that, or if you are building a no-budget car, then run a set of smog type (.040") over 440 pistons. They will...

What would be the best approach to lighten the stock cast mopar BB pistons? In other words, where could I take out some metal without weakening the piston? And how? Drill? Thanks!