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I would say since it's just the case of the unit, it'd be fine, but you will probably be replacing it anyway ?

I get a small lurch forward upon start-up in park when cold. Only at first, every few revs, then gone when warmed up. I'm assuming it's related to torque convertor (?) 3200 stall.

I put a return spring from the trans lever to the bellhousing instead of top-side, same purpose, pulls lever back forward when off the throttle.

Not sure if I'll be regretting the 3:73's yet, haven't had it to highway speed but am turning pretty high at 45 - what can I expect and how big of a difference with taller tire selection ? 340/727/3000 stall. Don't get me wrong, I want the quicker response - just curious.

This would wrap things up ? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Flexible-Chrysler-727-Kickdown-Cable-street-hot-rod_W0QQitemZ260352004045QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item260352004045&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A1205%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318#ebayphotohosting

Well - didn't need the Holley Chrysler adapter - things look like they'll line up great with the throttle pin extension. Any way, now I'm trying to adjust and with a 3/16 bit locking the bellcrank - there's not enough length for the terminal (trans) rod to allow it to slip into the hole on the...

believe you are correct - found this pic and looks like the part I'm gonna need :

Talk about timing - yeah ..... I got it wrong for sure. Looks like I need the rod where my throttle cable is and relocate the throttle cable ? Also will have to lengthen the rod for sure. Any pics of anyone's setups would be helpful, here's mine before ...... and yes, guess I am stupid (or maybe...

10-4, like I said "flip-flopped". I'll check when I get home, ready for the weekend, baby. I modified the linkage bracket, cut and welded in a section of metal, brought it up where it needed to be and looks good. Thanks for the input.

Not a cable - three piece rod setup. Thers's a car show tomorrow, I'll find one I can look at. I just need to know : when accelerator is pressed , the linkage should move the lever on the trans rearward, correct ? This is how it works on my 6 w/904. Mine does the opposite.

and push the lever on the trans back towards the rear - i got something wrong going on here, throttle forwars pulls lever forward as well - have to see if I got somethin flip-flopped somewhere !

My brain can't get a handle around kickdown adjustment. I have a Holley Avenger and an AirGap - when I open the throttle (pedal to floor) the kickdown slotted rod is pulled forward (if play is out), towards the front of the car, which is pulling trans kickdown lever forward as well. from what...

You won't be he only one running around with hoses instead of the hard lines. Pressure ain't the issue here as you probably already know. Double hose clamps (don't cut into the hose) and route and secure carefully away from any abrasive points. I would not do this on a daily driver - but...

Adding a trans cooler soon - should I keep the radiator lines and route through the cooler or block the old radiator lines and run aftermarket cooler only ? I've read that radiator can heat trans fluid (or at least is not as efficient) as a stand-alone cooler ? If vote is to keep radiator lines...

Been there - done that. Try the wrap but I'd say look into new rear cabled shifter (and they ain't cheap)

Let me firt say that on this particular car (/6 Duster going V8) I am not at all concerned about originality, that being said. I came across a complete Ford 9" for a hundred bucks, not sure if posi or gear ratio. I know I am not going to find an 8 3/4 complete for less than 5-600.00 (or more)...

How long are these 6 bolts and can I use grade 8's from the hardware store ? I've seen Mopar kits from Summit for all 6 bolts plus the 4 torque convertor bolts for around thirty bucks - this may be my best route sincethe convertor bolts I won't find anywhere ....

Yeah - I got the specs from a chart for 70 340/727/8 3/4 Dart Swinger - so I'm comfortable this will fit - my concern was the adpting the rear to large pinion and if this caused a variance in length but doubt it. Shaft is from a 318/904/ 7 1/4 rear (original combo before converting) so will need...

Want to get a head start - 72 Dart Swinger w/340/727/8.75. Any reason I shouldn't go ahead and have a driveshaft made to the factory measurement for 70 340 cars ( don't have it handy 48 or 49 inches ) ? Really like to have it ready to install. What possible variables could there be that may...