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So I got it to work. I wanted to leave the new timing chain on the motor so I took a crank shaft oil slinger off a builder motor of mine and threw that on for extra clearance (didn't have one on my current build and it worked until this new timing chain setup) aswell I filed down the timing...

I did put a new melling timing chain on the motor, couldn't tell you what the previous brand chain was. I am gong to reinstall the old chain tomorrow and let you know what the result is.

I have always pulled the balancers correctly with the right puller. But have put them on with the bolt incorrectly, with great results until now (shame on me I know).

The title pretty much says it all. I have a newer build and recently pulled the timing cover and everything that goes along with that (balancer). I was verifying that the cam thrust plate bolts were in place due to oil pressure problems... Now my problem is that once I started the 360 motor the...

I did make sure that the pump did seat flush with no interferance after getting the correct rear main bolts from ARP, this was a small hang up during my build. But ARP sent the bolts for free and quickly once I called them. It seems to be an issue they get calls about often. So they had the fix...

well I ordered the high pressure spring kit. year one online notes says it ships withing 1-4 weeks... so I will keep you guys posted once I recieve/install the parts. Thank You for the advise and instructions!

The block was line honed before assembly. And I am using stock bolts to hold the oil pump on. The thing with the bolts is I had to call ARP and get two different main bolts to replace the ones sent in the kit as the bolts sent originally had a tall collar built in, because as you mention the...

Well the plugs are in place behind the thrust plate. So I'm not sure what it should look like when running the pump while looking at the front main bearings because I have never done it before. But it does hemorrhage alot of oil and its cold oil at that. It is a pretty instant smooth run out...

wowee! krazykuda you went above and beyond your mopar call of duty! Thank You very much. Here is what I have got so far: I do have the oil galley plug in the back of the driver's side lifter galley, and the thread in plugs on the back of the block. I can confirm that. I took my intake off to...

thankyou for the input so far! I'm headed out to check for the plugs krazykuda has suggested right now I'll check back soon with the results!

kuda might have to give the your washer trick a try once I confirm the plugs that krazykuda is talking about are in place.

take the intake off to check for/ intstall those? By the way I'm running 10w-30 as my machinist recommended for my bearing clearances. I chose to go with royal purpal.

I have read many oil pressure threads and tried a few things with no luck, but at least I ruled some things out already. The motor: 74 360 .40 10.5:1 J heads about 400 miles on fresh rebuild with 2 thousands bearing clearances (told by machinist, and I checked with plastigauge). Symptoms with...

Yeah those are the pistons. And the car does have power brakes so I don't want to go too large on the lift. Installed on the heads right now are double springs good for.500 lift, I am aware that I may need to change springs depending on the cam choice. Im going for a hydraulic cam, and kind of...

Car: 73 Duster with 23 spline 4 speed, 3.23 8.34 rear, slant 6 torsion bars. Motor: 75 dodge 360 4.04 bore, standard stroke, re-manufactured factory rods and crankshaft. Edelbrock dual plane intake & 600 cfm carb. Big valve j-heads with deck resurfaced, new valves, springs, solid bronze valve...

KB 107's seem to be very popular on this forum, so I'm leaning towards using them. I told my machinist that I was thinking about using KB's and he mentioned that they need to be file fitted something to the tune of filing the top ring or around the top of the piston, I can't remember which it...

I really like the sound of this i'm going to propose the idea to my machinist. I appreciate the advice on the piston and cam selection by previous posters.

Hi there I have a 75 360 at the machine shop right now which is 20 over which the machinist is going to take to 40 over. He is going to line bore it and turn the crank and recondition the rods. He is completely redoing my j heads (I plan on using stock rocker arms) , and he will balance...

So I got a call from my machinist last night and the verdict is: The block is swiss cheese and needs 4 sleeves in order to run any larger than 60 over. After cleaning and a closer evaluation he said he didn't need to send it to get sonic checked. The myth of the thick wall blocks has been tested...

My block, heads, crank, and rods are all at the machine shop. The machinist needs pistons soon and he recommends forged probe pistons over forged Kieth black pistons. So I'm looking at 70 over probe pistons and here are some of the option differences that I don't know about: Compression...

Hi there I just dropped my .060 over 1972 360 block off at the machine shop for machine work if they determine it is capable of .070 over. I have read the myths of the legendary early thick wall motors, I will keep you posted on whether this one attacks or supports the theory. Was told I should...

I need to understand this exactly, and try it!

that sounds like some sound wisdom

I have a 72 360 motor that runs great but now I have it out of the duster and I'm looking for more out of it. Not sure if I should just get my j heads redone and some mild cam. O if I should go to a machine shop and start on the bottom end. It all depends on how much it costs to get my block...

Thank You everyone for the advice! My swap is now complete and running great! Turns out that the weights go 180 from the offset weight on the harmonic balancer, and the comment about how the flew plate will only bolt on one way is 100% correct! Thanks again everyone!

Where should the weights on my torque converter be at when my motor is at top dead center? Thank you guys

I'm using the 727 just because its already in and I don't want to have to get a need driveshaft made. The cam is stock, its a stock rebuild 318. Your right I am planning on buying a new torque converter I just don't know what stall I should get, looking for more mpg's on this build, my current...

Hi ther I'm swapping my la 360 out for a la 318 car I use the oil pan off my 3360? what stall torque converter should I use with a 727 318 3.23 setup? Any other things besides oil pan ( 318 is out of a van) , motor mounts, and external/internal balance that you might know I need to worry about...

thats good to know! Thank you!

thankyou for the knowledge, I will stop calling that EGR from now on :) So you would think that a washer dropped down the heat crossover hole would cause lots of knocking?