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No responses yet ? I'd call TTI - I'm not running them so we'll see if someone has any addtl info. Remote's too spendy for me.

Saw your car at the show - looked awesome sitting still ! Honestly my favorite Dart at the show. Let us know how the adapter works as mine has been leaking slightly for a year and planned to address this winter. I think you scared buyers off with your asking price (too low in my opinion .. a steal).

What size is that head (I obviously don't own a socket large enough) ? I know it's bigger than 1 1/16 !

He was the man, back in the day.

Thanks all - weather's pretty darn consistent down here (Florida). I built the motor myself so guess I oughta learn how to make it run best !

Here's the dealio - we got my newly built 340 running good BUT - simply bolted the 770 Avenger on out of the box and set timing to what "worked". Obviously (500 mile break-in done) it's time to get it dialed in right. Is paying for the dyno time worth it, or are the differences with a weekend...

Well, I see the "10 second small block" thread. It seems to me, as far as streetable, this is more "doe-able" with cubes - any thoughts on a 11 sec 440 build that'd be definitely street friendly ?

I want to make sure my heater and radiator hoses remain leak-free without over-tightening. My issue right now is the chrome filler neck on my manifold leaking - got the clamp super tight and it still wont seal (not at the base, around the hose itself). Someone recommended sanding the chrome neck...

Okay lay out the gasket sequence here - obviously I can figure out the adapter-to-block gasket - but I guess I wasn't aware of the one (or two ?) used on the bolt (a nylon and a cork ?) No instructions in my Haynes or "How to Rebuild SB Mopars" seems odd.

'bout an inch and a half as said. Should be okay looks like but only using one of those purdy ARP's , dang, hope nobody makes fun of me :thebirdm:

I have an aluminum timing chain cover .... I'm pretty sure I stripped some of the threads (why I say "some" is 'cause as soon as I felt the slip, I backed out (ARP chrome bolt, 1" , seemed somewhat short). Any way, I grabbed another bolt a half inch longer and it tightened fine. Was curious how...

Are these just for looks on street cars ? I was considering running from fuel pump to carb - looks great but no real advantages, correct ? I'm assuming they come into play when you want fail-safe parts on a race car ?

What I needed to know - thanks. Just thinking about those cruises or shows that are 100 miles round trip or so - if we see 4.50 again, it'd make a difference at the pump - still plan on healthy build with either but mpg adds up quick at those prices. If I thought we were going to stay at >2.00...

I have either to put in my Duster. If both are built about the same with regards to bolt-ons and pistons/compression - is there a significant difference in gas mileage (thinking about if/when gas goes back up).

Just researched the trans fluid cap - about 8-10 quarts, wow. And the hits just keep on comin', $$$

Couple questions regarding lube. My 340 has a home-made deep sump oil pan, looks nice, they basically "mini-tubbed" it ! It measures 9" deep from flange to bottom of sump - what's the approximate capacity. Question 2 - 727 (stock pan) -what's the capacity with new convertor and do I need to fill...

Thanks all - Airgap's installed and I ain't pulling it off so I'll look into tapping and plugging. I'm using a hole just adjacent (right of) this hole for the temp sensor, just had to pick up an adapter from Home Depot plumbing to make it work. Believe it or not, I've never had to tap anything...

Airgap has a stripped out hole for temp sensor - don't need this hole anyway, don't have ability to tap and plug - would JB Weld not do the trick or another recommendation ?

Asked earlier but didn't title it to get response - 1971 Swinger -1968 340 - .030 over - 727 - ported X's - fly cut flat-top pistons - maybe 9.5:1 - 268 cam - headers - Air Gap, etc.,etc. Was considering Autolite AP65's or Champ N12Y's - should I go a little hotter since comp isn't that high ?

Yeah - 340, and thanks.

Recommended spark plug for my car ( Lunati 268 cam - 770 avenger - TTI's - 727 w/3500 stall ) Thanks. also have two kickdown assemblies to choose from - make a difference ? Edited content ignore title !

Paintin' it works for me - just wanted to make sure - thanks

First time I've installed an aftermarket - the gasket in the Fram rebuild kit pretty much shows all the way around (larger than Air Gap intake) Do I need an aftermarket gasket or can I mark and cut this one down - or do I paint it the block color and move on ?

Skittle size ? I use M & M size myself ! (Couldn't help myself - I know, I know - smart #**!)

Posted the same question last week - got these replies: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=45578

Do you use an oil pump gasket or not ?

Do most of you check gap on rings out of the box (Speed Pro's) or install and go ?

I don't want to stop for the day - crank end play seems to be about .0015 - do I have to get the thrust bearings shaved or can this ride ?

Dealerships show "no longer available" -