Search results for query: *

Numbers were posted above. He will need at least high 11s to be confident of being competitive.

I have been toying with the idea of a new Camaro V6. Mid 13s in a modern, fuel efficient package is nothing to sneeze at.

To clean the clock of a stock 2016+, SS Camaro you need at least a consistent high 11s. Mid or low 12s won't do it, because then it comes down to the driver. Thing is, with simple mods, the 2016+ SS Camaro is in the mid/high 11s. So really, you will need constant low 11s if you want to win...

No

Why, after all the threads we have had on this, would anyone run a 160 stat on a street car? But what he is talking about is fuel drop out. An intake can be so cold that the fuel doesn't want to stay atomized, hits the runners, and kind of dribbles it's way through the system (or so the theory...

I thought about E85 but I didn't want to give up the cruising range, I can only go about 200 miles on a tank now.

I think by the time you get that so called $3000, 1500 hp engine sorted out and a chassis and drive-train installed that will take it, you will be looking at well over $40,000.

That, like mentioned, is for oil conrol when doing serious road racing. If you don't do serious racing, this mod is only cosmetic.

Good call, I was about to suggest the same thing. If you don't find anything there head back to the basics. Parts that "look" good may not be good enough.

The big thing you are tying to avoid with the timing is detonation. Detonation + n20 = you will be pulling the engine out for a rebuild.

I like 3.91s, what size is your rear tire?

If you don't want to risk an expensive stroker motor that will see street time, stay with a mechanical water pump.

The regular guy way is to use some bolts to align the gasket on the head, use a felt pen to blacken out the material that needs to be removed……. Do the same to the intake and start grinding.

My 318 build was specifically looking to emulate the power and feel of a stock 340 using a 318 as the base engine. My build plan also required that the engine compartment looked stock. That is the only reason I had selected the 340 cast iron intake. You on the other hand are not limited...

Let me tell you, spending money to make your car go slower is one of the hardest things for old car guy to do. This is why my car has been sitting for at least the last year and a half.

Nope. I decided to de-tune my 340. The 318 is on a stand and I will be doing that build, just at a later time.

You could look at my thread. This is about getting around 300hp out of a 318 using a stock long block as the base. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=125004

Im not a pro in this area but I'm thinking that intake is not the best choice given the heads and valve size.

Your question looks like you are asking if it's one or the other. In reality your best bang often comes from a combination if weight reduction and power upgrades.

I bet what you refer to as oil shooting out the exhaust is really, sooty condensation. (Running a little rich + the colder weather can do this) If it really is actual engine oil passing all the way out your tail pipe you have serious issues.

Maybe we should change the focus here and figure out why your gas milage is so bad.

Hold on… Did you say you are only getting 96 miles out of a tank? That's not much more than 5mpg.

30+ years of fart knockin around with cars and one thing I have learned is that the best mod for any old Hot Rod is having nice, easy going driver as a second car. Your "driver" can be whatever you want it to be……. /6 Dart, 93 Toyota, 2010 BMW…… Doesn't matter. As long as it is in your...

$500 Honda Civic as a daily driver.

Your oil pressure is more than fine. Rule of thumb…. 10psi per 1000rpm.

We have had people on here post and post again over several months about timing/carb/tuning issues…….. Then finally someone asks….. "Do you have a timing light?" Followed with a "No" reply……. Like Green1 said. You need to make sure the thing is tuned correctly...

I really hope so. He has worked his butt off on that engine.

Your oil pressure it fine. Go drive it and have fun.

I don't see a problem. I would change the oil to 10-30 (I personally do not like 10-40). 5 quarts (I assume you have a standard pan). Drive it and see if your oil pressure drops (takes a big dip) when you stop fast or corner hard. If so put in an extra quart and try it again. If it...

Ok fill out this form. What Wt. oil do you have in your car now? How much oil do you have in your car now? What is your oil pressure, cold at idle? What is your oil pressure hot at idle? What is your oil pressure hot a 50mph steady drive?