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You can only cut back to your spot welds or the 1/4 will separate from the outer wheelhouse. Your spot welds are way to the inside.

Clackamas Commumity College has a restoration class, and yes, in that class you can just walk in, use their equipment and get basic instruction.

I think you are angry.

It makes everyone a good welder. If it wasn't for the $8,000 price tag, I would have one at home.

Like I said, take a class and use their equipment.

Anyway.... I'm in St. Helens. It's between Longview and Portland, Oregon side. I have daily access to a ProSpot SP-5 welder and I'm certified in structural and non-structural welding of both steel and aluminum. I could possibly do it if you can't find anyone, but be warned I take my days...

I disagree. For $450 you can have someone do the welding for you vs spending the same amount, still getting the welding done and learning a lifetime skill. It's a no brainer for me.

Take a welding class or restoration class at the local community college. Do it yourself with their equipment while learning how to weld. It will cost about the same as paying someone to do it.

If you bought a minimal rust, west coast car and shipped it home, you would be money ahead.

If you strip all the old paint off and use a couple coats of etch primer, your paint will cover and adhere better.

He is talking about the exhaust heat crossover in the intake manifold. I don't think any amount of tuning is going to prevent the paint from getting cooked.

Replace the latch, adjust door and/or striker as needed. Don't modify the latch or its mounting.

Add mounting tabs.

It would be very unusual for a car to be down in only one corner.

These things are a major pain in the *** to remove, install and re-align. Soak them in the car if possible. If you have tried to force the crank, good chance the the regulator has bent. This can be straightened (sometimes) but will require removal.

Isn't the original wheel 4.5" wide? I wouldn't run a 245 on that. 205 or maybe a 215 is all I would go.

If you have a state issued replacement vin, you are most likely out of luck. Clarify with the DMV that the car is legitimately titled, the vin is valid, and you are the legal owner. If all that checks out, go for it and build the car any way you want. Any "collector" value was lost with the...

By chance did you install a new rubber seal that runs along the top of the glass opening?

Yup. You are better off just buying a 2 door if that's what you want.

I agree with Dodge33. It's really hard to fully evaluate what's going on from the pics. It needs to be measured. I do this for a living. It's really just a simple matter of measuring, comparing what you have to what the factory specifications are, and moving everything back. If you don't...

That rail should have a good buckle on the inside. But yes, like others have said. Your best bet is a frame rack. At me shop it would be $50 an hour with a 2.5 hour minimum. I could probably have the car in spec in a couple hours, but that could quickly change depending on what may be going...

You don't need to go from the thinnest to the widest to get what you are looking for. A 205 or 215 would be HUGE improvement over those 185s and shouldn't be hard to fit.

Your car would look better with black, stock steel, wheels and chrome lug nuts. I don't care how cheep those are, I feel that they would look bad.

Here: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=254436

I could see it being close to that (although, I agree, $900 is a bit high). For example, if the ding was in the middle of the rear door and blend room was limited (measure 18" forward and 18" rearward of the ding), you could be looking at: R/I on the front door R/I on the rear door R/I...

They will look at your car and compare it to others in similar condition that are for sale. This is something you should also be doing.

I think someone is blowing smoke up your tailpipe.

Although I agree (and was, in fact, the first to make a post on the issue), she will be getting her feet wet in a Neon and have some driving experience before she moves onto the Signet. Regardless, a father, daughter build with safety in mind is a great idea.

dodgedartgt, see if you can measure the column in the Signet. Overall length. Length from firewall to steering coupler. Length from wheel mount to firewall. The more the better. The guys here can use those measurements to see how close a later column will get you.

Not trying to be negative but swallow that pride and get her something safe for a driver and build the Signet as a side, father daughter project. You can toss all the safety stuff you want at that car but what you can't do is remove the rigidity in the structure. That rigidity transfers the...