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yea, can i get a large popcorn and a dr. perrer please!

i also think it is in the rearend, if you were able to drive it home after the lock-up. i cannot see a tranny taking that kind of jam, and still shift fine afterwards.

what?????????????????????? without the cars' owners permmission. please, enlighten me!

do not listen to these guys!. you do not need a converter. i have a few cars witout them, and they look good in my garage. HOWEVER, IF YOU PLAN FOR IT TO MOVE DOWN THE ROAD, THAT IS A WHOLE NEW STORY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

nice. how much you have into it, complete?

or a harbor frieght lokkar

a full rear will have to be cut. a 9.25 392 sure grip out of my r/t dakota lasdt week measured 58 inches from backing plate to backing plate.. i think it is 7 inches too wide

well, i am sure the trans will have to be dropped, as when they were put in, lok-tite was used on the threads, therefore, making it almost impossible to turn out easy

^^^^^ for a o.d setup???????????????????? i doubt that kind of price severly i just picked up a turn key engine, tarans, all linkage. aftermarket carb, intake. everything to drop in a car for 800.00 with headers too. i say more in the line of 500-600, tops also, there is a cmplete...

well, because it is a od, trans, they do not bring much at all. if it was a normal 4 speed, they go for 300.00 and if it is rebuilt, they go for 700.00 being an o.d unit, i say 150, hump,60 pedals- 115, all linkage and rods, 125., where in nc r u?

well, the center section in it now says 741 on it, and that is in the old style rear

ok, i have a 8.75 in my car, but when i took the wheel off, i see it has the big nuts at the ends. someone already did the mod to where the drum comes right off, but i want to do away with them completley. will axles out of another 8.75 a body work without major work or money?

correct. but, i have been told from a long time mopar man, that it is ok to use some anyway, as it helps and chatter noise from gears

I WOULD HAVE IT PULLED AND GET IT ALL CHECKED. even though you think it happened upder the de-accel, it most likekly broke under the stress, but due to the force on it, it stayed"locked" togehter till you let off the throttle. once off the throttle, it let the pieces become "loose, therefore...

well, i would think that if he can actually "see" the pinion titling down as you back up, then i would believe that as you start to back up, something in there is binding, and as you continue, it releases,or "jumps" back up, causeing that sudden "pop" back up

he wanted wanted to know if they are able to put the converter on the flex plate, then put put the trans in with the converter already mounted to the flex plate

calling now

you sure it is a sure-grip??????????????

a 833od is a manual trans.

Guys, am i retarded, or am i blind?????????????? I have read it 3 times to be sure, but no where in his post does it say anything about having a sure-grip in it lolololololololllololol rofl man, now i see how legends begin.lol

about normal price right now

Shoot, i got a cone type 741 behind my mild 340 4 speed. I have had it on the road for a little over 2 weeks, and have dumped that clutch at 5 grand over 200 times.lol its holding greaaaaaaaaaaaat!

listen. EVEN IF YOU SPEND THE 1200 OR WHATEVER IT WAS ON THE BEST ONE YOU CAN/COULD BUILD OR BUY IT PRE-BUILT, YOU WILL NEVER GET WHAT YOU PAID FOR IT. IF YOU PAID 1200.00 FOR IT, ONCE IT IS USED, YOU WILL BE LUCKY TO GET 650.00 FOR IT ANYWAY. EVEN IF YOU USE IT ONE TIME. POINT BLANK

hey, went for a long trip today, and got on the car real hard. at 120+ it has a bad vibration. so bad, it dropped a clip out of the reverse linkage rod at the shifter, so when i pulled off the highway, i drove over those divots on the shoulder, and it fetched on it, and bent the rod. i am...

yea, it has been on the car for a while, but i am not happy with the pedal pressure. it is hard to push, and i have like 3 inches of travel for the clutch. it takes some getting use to. but i can bang some gears way nicer with it

at that price, it does not matter what type, as long as it is a 8.75 mopar sure grip, SNATCH THAT THING UP!. if it is not what you want, you can sell it on here for 4 times that amount of money.lol

someone mentioned using a b body rear and going with a different backspacing. but, in a duster, the rims are so far in off the quarter, could you get away with running stock rallies on the back with a b-body rear?, and it would just bring the wheels out to like the tracking of the front?

just keep the pieces that you cut out of the floor, if you decided to go back to stock. not hard at all 80,000 miles, 200,000 miles, or a million miles, no real difference

i would think with a 318, i would go with the 3:55, even if you drive it once in a while on the street. i have a 340 and have 3:55 cause it will be on the street everyday, but 3:91 may have that 318 screaming.

yea, i did a search to no avail.lol